Parking Brake Doesn't Hold vs Drag on the Rotors

BC4runner06

New member
Just put new rear pads and rotors on my 06 V6 4runner. Attempted to adjust the parking brake using star adjusters at the same time because it wasn't holding very well even at 12+ clicks.

After adjusting it the parking brake held great (around 7 clicks) but I noticed the rotors getting EXTREMELY hot even on short trips with little braking. Much hotter than the fronts.

It seems its either a choice of parking brake not working or dragging rotors possibly causing damage.

Any thoughts/help on what I could do? Is this most likely a stretched parking brake cable and if so what's involved in replacing it? Is it a tough job?

Thanks for the help
 
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Horrible advice here... just don't use the parking brake. Mine got way hot and ended up melting the ebrake pad to the inner rotor and caused more troubles. It's likely a worn or rusty cable that needs adjusting.
 
My parking brake has not worked since i got the truck, wondering if anyone really uses it? im thinking i need to get brand new brake lines
 
Having just gone through this late in the fall, I can definitely sympathize! I had a catastrophic failure of a rear caliper, where it somehow lost a pad, piston came out too far, and the master pumped all of the fluid out in seconds! Long story short, I decided to do all new brakes and rotors, and since my ebrake didn’t work, I decided to get new shoes for that as well since I was due for an inspection, and would never pass without a working ebrake. Once I got everything apart, I discovered that either a previous owner, or the unscrupulous dealer stripped out all of the internals to the ebrake! Just the cables remained and the ends were looped so they wouldn’t drag on the drums. I should’ve checked it when I bought it, but I was way too focused on inspecting other way more costly functions like the transfer case hi/low, rust, front end components, engine, etc., and since in 35 years of driving have never once used an ebrake on an automatic car. I don’t even use them on my manual cars unless on a steep grade (I just use a low gear like reverse, or first to keep it from rolling). Anyway, sourcing all the parts was a bit difficult because, some of them don’t come in the rebuild kits, especially the very expensive, cast lever arms! Once I found the parts I was missing and got them working, I too had the same issue. I drove it for a couple of days with them dragging enough to make the rotors quite a bit hotter when checked with a laser temp gun, but they still wouldn’t hold the truck! When it came to inspection day, I was forced to crank them so tight that the truck wouldn’t even roll backwards on hill with the ebrake disengaged! Since the station was only a couple of miles from my house, I drove it there, got my sticker, then came back and loosened them so they don’t drag at all. Obviously the ebrake won’t hold the truck anymore, and I’m going to o have to go through the same BS next year for inspection. The thing that bothered me is that when they were lightly dragging, they’d hold the truck if I just put it in first gear, but the test people also bring it up between 1500-2000 rpms! Even with it as tight as I could get it, it would break free at that point! I was honest with the inspector about the problem, and explained that EVERYTHING was brand new and still wouldn’t hold under that much throttle, especially with the torque of the v8. Luckily he was cool and let it slide because I’m sure a lot of vehicles with those stupid internal drums share this issue. So, aside from applying the ebrake every now and then just so the cables don’t freeze up and rust, I have no actual use for it.
 
Sounds like lots of problems here. I just did mine. Use the FSM, follow the procedure and there will be no issues. I do agree that testing them at 1500-2000 rpms is excessive. That's my highway rpm!
 
the way i adjust my parking brake
make sure the pedal is not down

expand till its tight, youll know the feeling on how much click itll take, just dont go crazy, dont force it.

do it on both side at the same time, then back about 4 or 6 clicks, exercise the pedal inside, might have to start at 4 first, i know the service manual states about 8.

hopefully your shoes are good. this work for me, holds my truck still.

if the rotors are hot, is it from a stuck piston in the caliper?
 
Having just gone through this late in the fall, I can definitely sympathize! I had a catastrophic failure of a rear caliper, where it somehow lost a pad, piston came out too far, and the master pumped all of the fluid out in seconds! Long story short, I decided to do all new brakes and rotors, and since my ebrake didn’t work, I decided to get new shoes for that as well since I was due for an inspection, and would never pass without a working ebrake. Once I got everything apart, I discovered that either a previous owner, or the unscrupulous dealer stripped out all of the internals to the ebrake! Just the cables remained and the ends were looped so they wouldn’t drag on the drums. I should’ve checked it when I bought it, but I was way too focused on inspecting other way more costly functions like the transfer case hi/low, rust, front end components, engine, etc., and since in 35 years of driving have never once used an ebrake on an automatic car. I don’t even use them on my manual cars unless on a steep grade (I just use a low gear like reverse, or first to keep it from rolling). Anyway, sourcing all the parts was a bit difficult because, some of them don’t come in the rebuild kits, especially the very expensive, cast lever arms! Once I found the parts I was missing and got them working, I too had the same issue. I drove it for a couple of days with them dragging enough to make the rotors quite a bit hotter when checked with a laser temp gun, but they still wouldn’t hold the truck! When it came to inspection day, I was forced to crank them so tight that the truck wouldn’t even roll backwards on hill with the ebrake disengaged! Since the station was only a couple of miles from my house, I drove it there, got my sticker, then came back and loosened them so they don’t drag at all. Obviously the ebrake won’t hold the truck anymore, and I’m going to o have to go through the same BS next year for inspection. The thing that bothered me is that when they were lightly dragging, they’d hold the truck if I just put it in first gear, but the test people also bring it up between 1500-2000 rpms! Even with it as tight as I could get it, it would break free at that point! I was honest with the inspector about the problem, and explained that EVERYTHING was brand new and still wouldn’t hold under that much throttle, especially with the torque of the v8. Luckily he was cool and let it slide because I’m sure a lot of vehicles with those stupid internal drums share this issue. So, aside from applying the ebrake every now and then just so the cables don’t freeze up and rust, I have no actual use for it.

Seems like you're dealing with way more issues than I am! I feel for you.
 
the way i adjust my parking brake
make sure the pedal is not down

expand till its tight, youll know the feeling on how much click itll take, just dont go crazy, dont force it.

do it on both side at the same time, then back about 4 or 6 clicks, exercise the pedal inside, might have to start at 4 first, i know the service manual states about 8.

hopefully your shoes are good. this work for me, holds my truck still.

if the rotors are hot, is it from a stuck piston in the caliper?

I tried this method but as mentioned, when at 7 or 8 clicks the rear rotors are getting way too hot. If I loosen off the parking brake more, the rotors are cooler but parking brake barely works.

Does anyone know if there's a difference between using the star adjusters behind the rear rotors or adjusting below the centre console with the cable adjuster nut? Both give the same result?
 
I tried this method but as mentioned, when at 7 or 8 clicks the rear rotors are getting way too hot. If I loosen off the parking brake more, the rotors are cooler but parking brake barely works.

Does anyone know if there's a difference between using the star adjusters behind the rear rotors or adjusting below the centre console with the cable adjuster nut? Both give the same result?

If your cable is stretched, when you adjust the shoes correctly it will not hold when you depress the P-brake pedal, there will not be enough pedal travel to make the shoes hold as it should, adjust the shoes to where you think it should be to not drag and thus not heat up the disk, then you need to adjust the cable until it holds correctly, I believe but could be mistaken that the pedal should only travel about 7 clicks to hold, but as mentioned I could be wrong as my memory is not working well at the moment, but it states what the pedal travel should be in the Toyota FSM.
 
If your cable is stretched, when you adjust the shoes correctly it will not hold when you depress the P-brake pedal, there will not be enough pedal travel to make the shoes hold as it should, adjust the shoes to where you think it should be to not drag and thus not heat up the disk, then you need to adjust the cable until it holds correctly, I believe but could be mistaken that the pedal should only travel about 7 clicks to hold, but as mentioned I could be wrong as my memory is not working well at the moment, but it states what the pedal travel should be in the Toyota FSM.

Thanks for this. So I'm assuming you mean, adjust with the star adjusters so there's no drag and then adjust the nut under the centre Console for the proper amount of clicks?
 
Thanks for this. So I'm assuming you mean, adjust with the star adjusters so there's no drag and then adjust the nut under the centre Console for the proper amount of clicks?

Yes, then adjust the cable under the console until it holds the vehicle properly, like I mentioned I can't recall exactly what it said in the FSM, and I don't need to use my parking brake much if at all so I don't even remember if it actually clicks as you depress the pedal, just use your own judgement adjusting the cable but be sure that it releases properly.

From your description it's sounds like you do indeed have a stretched cable, by adjusting the cable it should allow the shoes to not be dragging and give you enough pedal travel to fully apply the parking brake so it holds the vehicle, not so sure if it will ever hold it at over 2000 RPMs but still should be much better than what you have now.
 
One thing that I've never seen mentioned anywhere... When adjusting the star wheels, it helps to first compress the service brake calipers so there is no other drag on the wheel as you rotate it. That will give you a more accurate "x clicks from last contact" measurement.
 
Yes, then adjust the cable under the console until it holds the vehicle properly, like I mentioned I can't recall exactly what it said in the FSM, and I don't need to use my parking brake much if at all so I don't even remember if it actually clicks as you depress the pedal, just use your own judgement adjusting the cable but be sure that it releases properly.

From your description it's sounds like you do indeed have a stretched cable, by adjusting the cable it should allow the shoes to not be dragging and give you enough pedal travel to fully apply the parking brake so it holds the vehicle, not so sure if it will ever hold it at over 2000 RPMs but still should be much better than what you have now.

I guess that’s probably my issue as well. I’ll have to try adjusting the cable when it gets warmer. I never actually use the ebrake, but since I need it for the annual inspection, I may as well have it working correctly, especially with all the money I spent sourcing parts and figuring out the assembly since it was missing completely when I bought the truck!
 

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