Passenger side e-brake cable excessive slack, brake not adjusting with handbrake pull

[Arv]

Just installed new OEM shoes, OEM drums turned the 1st time and seems that only about 1mm material has been taken off. Cleaned and re-used all hardware since they were not rusted and were pretty clean after degreasing. Greased components per FSM. New C and E clips that came with the shoes.

Took apart the brake cable pivot equalizer(where the drv. and pass. side cable splits), cleaned and greased so that its moving freely. Bellcrank cleaned and re-greased, stop screws were adjusted per FSM (about .6mm gap to backing plate) and when I pull on the short black sheathed cable (the one that goes between the bell crank hook and adjusting lever) driver and passenger sides adjusts with about the same amount of force and the auto adjuster clicks.

The driver side adjusts until the drum becomes pretty snug but can still be pulled off with some force but the passenger does not adjust and there is a lot of cable slack.

One last thing, does the driver side adjust with each hand brake pull first and when it is done adjusting the passenger side adjusts? I’m thinking they should be adjusting at the same time since the brakes are supposed to be applied equally when you pull on the e-brake handle.

What am I missing here?????

 

[Arv]

Any ideas on what to try next?

 

[bdjcl]

I had this issue for awhile too, it ended up that I didn't have the shoes adjusted out far enough when I slid the drum on initially. There should be very little play when you slide the drum over the shoes.

Also make sure on the passenger side shoes, you have routed the parking brake cable underneath the metal lip that is inside the drum to take the slack out of the line.

 

[thezentree]

Are you sure your adjusters are assembled correctly? It might seem silly, but it's tripped me up before.

 

[Arv]

[MENTION=393244]bdjcl[/MENTION]
Ok, I'll try again. I did that but maybe I was being conservative and didn't want the shoes to be over adjusted to begin with, thinking the handbrake pulls will make it right. If what you're saying is right, which I hope it is, i think my problem is that what I think is tight enough when I manually adjust the star wheel is actually not, so when the shoes tries to adj. with a handbrake pull there is too much play around the adjuster mechanism. I've actually noticed that when I removed the drum and had my son pull on the brake handle but obviously didn't realize that is what is going on.

Thanks! Wish me luck!

 

[bdjcl]

[MENTION=393244]bdjcl[/MENTION]
Ok, I'll try again. I did that but maybe I was being conservative and didn't want the shoes to be over adjusted to begin with, thinking the handbrake pulls will make it right. If what you're saying is right, which I hope it is, i think my problem is that what I think is tight enough when I manually adjust the star wheel is actually not, so when the shoes tries to adj. with a handbrake pull there is too much play around the adjuster mechanism. I've actually noticed that when I removed the drum and had my son pull on the brake handle but obviously didn't realize that is what is going on.

Thanks! Wish me luck!

cool, let me know

 

[Arv]

Are you sure your adjusters are assembled correctly? It might seem silly, but it's tripped me up before.

I think so, like I said it adjusts fine when I pull on the short black sheated short cable. Same force required on both sides. I also checked out the FSM diagram and other pictures and Tim's video

 

[Sarki]

I think so, like I said it adjusts fine when I pull on the short black sheated short cable. Same force required on both sides. I also checked out the FSM diagram and other pictures and Tim's video

If still having an issue post up a couple of pictures of your brakes with drums off so we can confirm everything is in it’s proper location as sometimes stuff happens when reassembling and a spring, etc is placed in the wrong location.
A picture of bellcranks as well.

 

[Built4Run]

I’m having the same problem
Gotta try this

 

[Kanoe]

Your pivot isn’t seized is it? This is meant to pivot freely.

 

[Arv]

Your pivot isn’t seized is it? This is meant to pivot freely.

As per OP yes it's been cleaned and greased. Pivots freely, I did not notice a torque for the bolt, is there?

 

[Arv]

If still having an issue post up a couple of pictures of your brakes with drums off so we can confirm everything is in it’s proper location as sometimes stuff happens when reassembling and a spring, etc is placed in the wrong location.
A picture of bellcranks as well.

136KB size limit on pics....arghh.. I took some pics and I gotta figure out how to make them smaller!!!! I already cropped and resized in 3d paint and they are still too big. Will have to try LR or PS, lol.

I did check again, the two black springs are hooked in the triangular holes closer to the pads and not to the round holes beside them.

The cable does go under the hook.

I wedged a 4mm thick nut to make the pass cable tighter and that seems to work and the passenger side to adjust but I'm worried that with that nut in place it will make emergency braking un-even since I technically shortened the pass side cable unless it is stretched.

 

[Arv]

finally got it small enough. this shows the cable tight with nut wedged in where it connects to bellcrank. more pics to come
edit: sorry pic is wide, you'd have to scroll to the right to see the nut. let me resize it again
edit2: resized photo again

 

[Arv]

loose pass cable without nut. Could the pass side be stretched?

 

[Arv]

I’m having the same problem
Gotta try this

Let me know what you find out! Thanks!

 

[Arv]

Nut!

 

[Arv]

Do you know how important this paper gasket is? It could be the difference between gear oil soaked brake shoes and dry ones in case of a seal failure!

The two black springs are hooked in the triangular holes closer to the pads and not to the round holes beside them.

The cable does go under the hook.

I wedged a 4mm thick nut to make the pass cable tighter and that seems to work and the passenger side adjusts but I'm worried that with that nut in place it will make emergency braking un-even since I technically shortened the pass side cable unless it is stretched.

 

[Arv]

i really suspect its something with the passenger side cable, and I hope I'm wrong, since the drv side adjusts just fine. Unfortunately you can't just replace the pass side since they come as one and its $100 for OEM. Not sure how the aftermarket ones are.
Also when you pull on the e brake handle the drv side locks up the wheel a couple/few clicks earlier than the pass side, less with the NUT in place.

In case its a drum issue, should I try switching the drums between sides?

 

[Sarki]

i really suspect its something with the passenger side cable, and I hope I'm wrong, since the drv side adjusts just fine. Unfortunately you can't just replace the pass side since they come as one and its $100 for OEM. Not sure how the aftermarket ones are.
Also when you pull on the e brake handle the drv side locks up the wheel a couple/few clicks earlier than the pass side, less with the NUT in place.

In case its a drum issue, should I try switching the drums between sides?

Brake shoes, springs, e-cable routing all look good to me.
I’m not familiar with the silver nut at the end of your e-brake cable by the bell crank.
I’ve redone my bellcranks and I don’t have that nut on mine.

 

[Arv]

Brake shoes, springs, e-cable routing all look good to me.
I’m not familiar with the silver nut at the end of your e-brake cable by the bell crank.
I’ve redone my bellcranks and I don’t have that nut on mine.

My bad, I wasn't clear that I fabricated that slotted nut and inserted it in there to tighten the slack on the pass side cable