Pelfreybilt Winch Bumper woes...

Hwy88-Taco

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I just picked this up at the BAMF/Pelfreybilt garage sale.

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Pelfreybilt Installation Instructions | Tacoma World No help to me what so ever but maybe useful for someone else.
bumper.JPG


Pelfreybilt Steel plate winch bumper (sans hoops)
w/ 20" recessed LED light bar cut out
w/ 3" recessed fog light mount

facelift.JPG

Mock%20up%20front.JPG

Mocked it up for fitment and found my first curveball. The hood wont close due to interference with the grill and the top of the bumper. Apparently there were two versions built for this model, 03-05 & 06-09. I either got the former or it was an engineering oversight. I only say that because the best that I could tell, when the model refresh came out (2006) Toyota put the blinkers in with the headlights. This bumper doesn't have provisions for blinkers.
Hood.JPG



So I considered my options.
Option 1: Trim for clearance.
Option 2: Lower the whole bumper. This would create an 1.25" gap at the headlights and fenders.
Option 3: Grill swap? I wasn't even sure if this would be a direct fit or create some other problem.

I chose option 1 and got to cutting. I scribed a line with a 1/4" gap in front of the grill. Then got out the cutoff wheel and started throwing sparks.
scribe.JPG

trim.JPG


With the clearancing done I refit the bumper and checked out the progress. Success! (forgot to take the success pic) The hood closed perfectly and gave a small tolerance for shimmy and bumps to keep from chaffing. So I popped the hood to remove the bumper and found my next curveball. Can't reach the hood release lever! Now that the hood closes all the way the grill drops below the bumper.

After a couple of moments, some cussing, two adult beverages of inspiration, I think I found a work around. The little finger release lever has a connecting rod that reaches up to the release mechanism. So I can either drill a little hole in the finger lever and run a rigid wire with a finger loop up to another hole in the grill or I could run a rigid wire down from the release mech to another opening in the grill. Either way, not a big deal.

Yet another curveball. The A/C line runs up from the frame on the driver side, makes contact with the winch mount plate and then goes horizontal towards the passenger side directly in the path of the winch footprint. As well as the transmission cooling line ( I believe it's the tranny line anyway). I thing I can massage the A/C line with a tubing bender. The tranny line has soft lines attached to a rigid line that I think I can relocate as well.
intereference.JPG

Lines.MOV

Lastly, powder coat This being the "Wifey Rig" I must defer to her feedback for this. She had previously stated that she didn't want" some hitios beefy thing hanging off of the front end" (her words). Rather she prefered "sexy yet functional" ( I had an image of cowgirl boots and denim shorts in my head and said "that works"). I've normally just gone with black powder coat or black paint or even bed liner.

After talking around with powder coat shops they suggested matching it as opposed to using a generic white so I found this. Prismatic Powders, RAL 9003, "Pearl White". From what I can tell this matches the Toyota "Natural White" (paint code 056) as closely as one can without doing a special order.


A few questions for anyone out there who has ventured down this path ahead of me.

1. Have you had any powder coat work matched to your white rig (056, Natural White)? If so, what was the powder coat color & brand & code.

2. Anyone else mount up a Pelfreybilt to a 06-09 with the same grill issues?

3. Did you have issues with the lines interfering with your winch? If so,what did you do about it?


Thanks in advance for your help guys and gals. This place has been an excellent resource for my inspirations on future mods and I'm looking forward to your feed back.
 
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I am no help to answer your questions.
But, I commend you on how instead of pitching a fit like many others would do. You busted out the grinder and got your hands dirty.
Looks great by the way, and good luck finishing her up.
 
I am no help to answer your questions.
But, I commend you on how instead of pitching a fit like many others would do. You busted out the grinder and got your hands dirty.
Looks great by the way, and good luck finishing her up.

Thanks for your encouragement. It took a few minutes for me feel like it was worth it, but it's just steel. I can fix it if i mess it up.

I learned from a good friend of mine that it's worth doing the mock up before paint. He unfortunately learned the hard way. We had tried to mount a Taco winch bumper from All-Pro to a 4Runner and despite All-Pros encouragement that it "should" work, it was going to take plenty of fab work. He had already painted it and we weren't convinced that it would actually fit the fenders just right. Lesson learned, 4Runners and Tacos may look similar but... that's all.
 
I’m still searching for solutions on the interference with the lines. While there’s no pics here I did find some comments about this issue.

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-...ainst-winch.html?highlight=2009+winch+install

Not a unique problem. It seems to be a common issue and if left unadressed an expensive one too.

Also, it looks like the other line is not a tranny cooler line (as the cooler is mounted to the front of the radiator as seen in one of my earlier pics) but rather the power steering reservoir line.
 
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do you off road your runner? if yes you may want to widen the gap between your bumper and body/headlight trim,you would be amazed how much things move and rub/rattle if the clearance is too small,3/4" is just about right.May explain some of your hood issues.
 
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do you off road your runner? if yes you may want to widen the gap between your bumper and body/headlight trim,you would be amazed how much things move and rub/rattle if the clearance is too small,3/4" is just about right.May explain some of your hood issues.

ive heard about the steel bumpers flexing up into the body, etc. and feel like that totally sucks. i know these rigs are more function over form (especially for those who opt for the big time aftermarket armor) but driving around with an inch gap in the bumper is pretty trashy looking too.
 
do you off road your runner? if yes you may want to widen the gap between your bumper and body/headlight trim,you would be amazed how much things move and rub/rattle if the clearance is too small,3/4" is just about right.May explain some of your hood issues.

That’s the goal, yes. I also am not impressed with the inconsistent gaps from the head lights to to fender. After BAMF posted some install instructions (for the Tacos), I noticed one tip that can help a little bit. They suggest using washers like shims on the top mounting bolts. Looks like the theory is to angle the fender wings up by rotating the top (out) downward. With that said, there just isn’t enough vertical adjustment to accomplish what you suggested to also clear the grill. There’s about 3/4” in the vertical slot and that’s only if I remove the hidden 4th mounting bolt that does not have an elongated hole.

Honestly I think this bumper was for the 03-05 and the blinkers were intended to be surface mounted. At least that’s my theory.
 
I slit a length of 3/8" rubber gas line and zip tied it around my a/c lines to protect them from my winch bumper.

This seems to be a common workaround. I’m considering it as an option but wondering if I could also use a tubing bender to rework the line closer to the radiator. How about the other line there behind it (think it’s the power steering line), how much tollerance do you have there?
 
[MENTION=67786]4RunAmok[/MENTION] has one of these on his 4Runner so he may be able to help.
 
I have an '06 and the top plate of my bumper has a cutout that looks like what you did with yours. I don't have a transmission cooler, so I can't speak to that issue, but I do recall needing to massage the AC lines a bit to provide clearance for the bumper and later for my winch. I access the hood release through the cutout to the right of the fairlead mounting location. It's an easy reach to the lever and has never bothered me.
 
I have an '06 and the top plate of my bumper has a cutout that looks like what you did with yours. I don't have a transmission cooler, so I can't speak to that issue, but I do recall needing to massage the AC lines a bit to provide clearance for the bumper and later for my winch. I access the hood release through the cutout to the right of the fairlead mounting location. It's an easy reach to the lever and has never bothered me.

Thanks for the feedback, good to know that I'm not alone on this one. So once you pop the hood the grill is still below the bumper?

Did you consider swapping the grill to an 03-05?
Also, what are your gaps like around the headlights and fenders?
What winch did you bolt up?

I'm currently watching YT for LED bars. My eyes are leaning towards Black Oak but my wallet is leaning towards Mictuning.
 
Thanks for the feedback, good to know that I'm not alone on this one. So once you pop the hood the grill is still below the bumper?

Did you consider swapping the grill to an 03-05?
Also, what are your gaps like around the headlights and fenders?
What winch did you bolt up?

I'm currently watching YT for LED bars. My eyes are leaning towards Black Oak but my wallet is leaning towards Mictuning.

Yes, once the hood is released, the grill is still recessed below the top plate of the bumper. I don't know what the dimensions are of the 03-05 grill (shorter?), but I doubt I'd feel motivated enough to swap the grill.

I didn't find that there was a wide range of adjustment to manage gaps on my vehicle, but I was able to set the gaps that I found visually acceptable while still avoiding contact with body flex. Since the fender line isn't horizontal and perpendicular to the front of the vehicle, I spaced the top of the mounting plate at the frame horn out away from the frame. It provided enough tilt to even out the gaps along the bumper "wings" and the fenders. I've noticed some other PB bumpers mounted the same way.

I mounted a $hittybilt winch. It has worked fine for my needs.
 
Yes, once the hood is released, the grill is still recessed below the top plate of the bumper. I don't know what the dimensions are of the 03-05 grill (shorter?), but I doubt I'd feel motivated enough to swap the grill.

I didn't find that there was a wide range of adjustment to manage gaps on my vehicle, but I was able to set the gaps that I found visually acceptable while still avoiding contact with body flex. Since the fender line isn't horizontal and perpendicular to the front of the vehicle, I spaced the top of the mounting plate at the frame horn out away from the frame. It provided enough tilt to even out the gaps along the bumper "wings" and the fenders. I've noticed some other PB bumpers mounted the same way.

I mounted a $hittybilt winch. It has worked fine for my needs.

Good to hear that this is normal and worth working around it. As for the 03-05 grill, when I read up on the headlight swap for those who want the projectors, I learned that if they don't swap the grill they will have a small triangle gap at the lower corners of the grill. It seems that that although the headlights will bolt up they aren't an exact fit.
With that comes the grill swap which leads to another issue, interference with the bumper. So it turns out that the headlight swap is actually a face lift. Regardless of all of that useless info, the 03-05 grill is around an inch shorter so it sounds like an option for us (as long as it doesn't have some other hidden issue). I was also wondering if there is an aftermarket grill that is a viable option as well but I haven't looked in to it yet.

As for the gapping, I too plan to make some adjustments with washers or some type of shim to even out the wings with the headlights. Maybe once I get it dialed I'll just weld them to the bumper mounting plate then grind it flush. I'm thinking around 1/4" on the top stud? But I'll play with that to get it right.
 
I bought the same bumper at BAMF

I too purchased the exact bumper, no hoops, no turn signals etc. I immediately went to test fitting and ran into your issue(s). I did the same relief cut so the grill will fit behind the new bumper. I spaced mine 1/4" + from the fender and head light trim. My bumper had a little rear lean giving me more space than I wanted right at both fenders. I shimmed the top bumper bolt to lean it level. I decided to not color match. I am having Miller Powder coating in Petaluma finish the bumper in a neutral color. I almost had it Cerecoted in Burnt Bronze but I don't have the balls and my wifey would have shot me. I don't have answers for your questions yet. I do need to find a work around for the ac hard line.
 
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Good to hear that this is normal and worth working around it. As for the 03-05 grill, when I read up on the headlight swap for those who want the projectors, I learned that if they don't swap the grill they will have a small triangle gap at the lower corners of the grill. It seems that that although the headlights will bolt up they aren't an exact fit.
With that comes the grill swap which leads to another issue, interference with the bumper. So it turns out that the headlight swap is actually a face lift. Regardless of all of that useless info, the 03-05 grill is around an inch shorter so it sounds like an option for us (as long as it doesn't have some other hidden issue). I was also wondering if there is an aftermarket grill that is a viable option as well but I haven't looked in to it yet.

As for the gapping, I too plan to make some adjustments with washers or some type of shim to even out the wings with the headlights. Maybe once I get it dialed I'll just weld them to the bumper mounting plate then grind it flush. I'm thinking around 1/4" on the top stud? But I'll play with that to get it right.

I've got an 03 grill that I need to remove - had the 06 sitting in my garage for a Satoshi and not getting completed for years now. Could be enough of a kick in the pants for me to take it off if you're interested in it. Shipping's less than simple/cheap though.
 
relocation ideas

So, I had some time to do some re-wiring and relocating of since the bumper was scheduled for coating. You probably have already figured out the solution to the issues with our bumper.
1. Relocation of the AC hardline. I removed it from the square white plastic bracket. I removed the bracket all together to utilize the mounting hole. I drilled a hole into the horizontal plane of the support arm big enough to run a zip tie through the front (where the white bracket once was) and out the top to fasten the AC line, fog light and light bar wiring. I simply rotated the ac hard line on top of the bracket which gave me enough room for the winch plate to clear 1/8".
2. I cut a 3" length of samco silicone hose and spliced it as directed by one of the awesome guys on this thread. I lined the hard line in two places. One, where the ac line makes contact with the support arm and where the ac line could bonk into the winch plate.
3. I also bent back the two black tabs that support the trans radiator. Just enough to give clearance. 1/4"-1/2".
4. I am going to use the right winch access port to unlatch the hood.
5. I contemplated buying a new 20" single row rigid industries light but couldn't justify it. Soooooo, I hogged out the opening to house my existing 3" double row R.I. then re welded the tabs back into place.
6. I dropped off my bumper off at WEST COAST POWDER COATING! They are located at 165 Mitchell Ave, South San Francisco, CA · (650) 871-0400 Ask for AJ. These guys are top notch. Very well priced and usually under a week out.
I will return to this guy for the skids, and sliders when they need it.
7. I relief cut the same way you did to accommodate the hood fitment. I wanted to keep it as close to the grill as would allow. My buddy suggested that I give more allowance for body and bumper articulation. As much as I would want 1/8" more material back, he is right. If you wheel you may need some allowance.
I hope this info was helpful. I will share pics tomorrow after I have everything mounted up. I hope you share your final pics too.
 
So the first Pelfreybilt bumper for the 4th Gen 4Runners was built on Brian's 4Runner (from Goose Gear), an 03-05 model.

The second one was made for the Total Chaos 4Runner, an 06-09, and THIS is where Tyler discovered the slight difference between the 03-05's 06-09's. Tyler chose to do exactly what you did to solve the issue.

There's also the little swoop downward on the front trim piece on the 06-09, whereas the 03-05 is just flat, but this isn't an issue since the bumper doesn't go back that far.

The angles and fitment on mine was never perfect, I tried washers as shims in combinations on all three of the forward facing studs, and I think I settled on the best fit being on the top studs on both sides, but still not perfect, but close enough.

For the hood release, I made it accessible by bending up the finger tab that used to hang below so that I could reach it through the grill. This has worked without issue since I got the bumper.

I don't run a winch, but I did have to finesse the AC line, Pelfrey used to supply a small bracket to relocate the mounting position of the line, which I used, and it doesn't interfere with the bumper.
 
For the hood release, I made it accessible by bending up the finger tab that used to hang below so that I could reach it through the grill. This has worked without issue since I got the bumper.

I don't run a winch, but I did have to finesse the AC line, Pelfrey used to supply a small bracket to relocate the mounting position of the line, which I used, and it doesn't interfere with the bumper.


Awesome! Thanks for the tips.

More fab work to come for this. My PB project is on hold while I finish brainstorming additional features and finish my other project "Camping trailer" (stay tuned for that build thread). Both of these projects are 4Runner projects since the Runner is my tow rig and the trailer goes where the Runner goes.

As for the storm that consumes my brain, I'm heavily weighing the idea of adding a 2" receiver to the front of the PB bumper. I'm thinking I could weld a receiver tube directly under the winch mount plate. I could then either cover the square hole with the license plate (though I hate front plates) or shove some receiver plug in there. After checking the local fab shop, Harbor Freight, eTrailers site and of course The Amazon, I noticed a trend among receiver tubes and hitches. It seems that the 5/8" hole for the lock pin is within 2" of the reinforcing collar. With the angle of the lower plate (below the winch fairlead) I would either have to let the receiver stick out several inches to access the pin or recess it so far back that I'd have to open the hood to get to the pin.

So with that said, I think I've devised a plan (pics to follow soon). I'm going to fab up a hidden integrated lock pin (kind of like a dead bolt on a gate or a cane pole anchor). The pin will be a large "L" shape. With a couple of sleeves on the receiver tube welded to a gusset under the winch mount and then to the receiver tube on each side. The pin will be longer on one side so it can extend completely through and protrude through the opposing sleeve. From the top, I'll cut an elongated hole (just a bit longer than the length of the throw) for the "L" leg to extend up through the mounting plate. I can then either access the pin through the left side (existing) cutout in the front of the bumper or from the top with the hood open. I'll add some spring option (torsion, detent, leaf) to hold the pin in either position.

However, this mod will have to wait until the winch arrives so I don't create some interference with it. More fab work to come!

I'll add some pics later in the evening edition edit of this post, stay tuned.


Several evenings later... The evening edition edit is here.

I had to first sketch this idea out to, a) get it out of my brain, and b) see it on paper so my minds eye wasn't the only one enjoying this idea. Now that I can see it with my eyes I can scale it and work on the little details. ALL FEEDBACK IS WELCOME! So please, guys and gals, throw me your thoughts here so I can make sure that I cover all angles. Maybe you don't have a hitch on your winch bumper but maybe you have a front hitch and have a point to make so please throw your $.02 in. It's worth the investment.


Front & back sketch
sketch1.JPEG


Close up of the hitch itself
sketch2.JPEG



Top view of how I think the lock pin could work. Three options for a spring included.
Sketch3.JPEG
 
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