Performance Starter vs oem

Hebrew Hammer

New member
So my starter started dying today.. Wasn't good. I was dropping friend off at the ap. for her flight and it died. We ended up having to have AAA help. Which leads me to this.. What's the difference in performance starters and oem? Why are there different ones that are oem with different gear settings etc..trying to learn before I just found happy go lucky and buy one I may not need, nor understand and all that jazz.. Thanks
 
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So my starter started dying today.. Wasn't good. I was dropping friend off at the ap. for her flight and it died. We ended up having to have AAA help. Which leads me to this.. What's the difference in performance starters and oem? Why are there different ones that are oem with different gear settings etc..trying to learn before I just found happy go lucky and buy one I may not need, nor understand and all that jazz.. Thanks

Can you post a link for these "performance starters," to be honest I haven't ever heard of there being a performance option for starters (though to be honest I never bothered to look...)
 
Sounds like one of those things they sell to guys who don't know what they're buying but have to have the "best".

OP, stop everything. Do you know for sure your starter is bad? And if so, do you know for sure exactly what's wrong with it? You could be looking at a battery or wiring issue, you could be looking at a simple case of bad contacts, etc. You might not need a new starter at all, you DEFINITELY don't need a "performance" starter.

You'll see different part numbers on OEM starters because Toyota installs slightly heavier duty starters on trucks being sold in areas with cold winters. Living in Texas, you definitely don't need to worry about that.
 
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Sounds like one of those things they sell to guys who don't know what they're buying but have to have the "best".

OP, stop everything. Do you know for sure your starter is bad? And if so, do you know for sure exactly what's wrong with it? You could be looking at a battery or wiring issue, you could be looking at a simple case of bad contacts, etc. You might not need a new starter at all, you DEFINITELY don't need a "performance" starter.

You'll see different part numbers on OEM starters because Toyota installs slightly heavier duty starters on trucks being sold in areas with cold winters. Living in Texas, you definitely don't need to worry about that.



Okay so what part number would I need IF it was the starter? Also AAA said it was along with me thinkit is is. All the lights came on. Radio, ac, and all electronics came on and functioned properly. When I went to turn it on, it made one clock and that's it. Every time I would try by turning off, and retrying it would click and wouldn't even try and kick over.
 
A bad starter would keep the truck from starting for sure, but I don't think it would cause your vehicle to die while it was running. If I'm reading your post right, that's what happened, right?
 
I've spent countless hours looking into every imaginable performance part for sports cars and now for trucks and this is the first time I hear about a "performance starter".
 
Unless the factory starters are known defects of the vehicle, I would stick with the factory version. It will be far easier to fix with the right part there. The problem with aftermarket "best" starter is you may not even know the manufacture. It does kinda sound like a starter but it also sounds like it could be a bad cable or battery. So I would check it out and make sure either way. May just be something loose.
 
A bad starter would keep the truck from starting for sure, but I don't think it would cause your vehicle to die while it was running. If I'm reading your post right, that's what happened, right?



No the vehicle was off. We stopped the truck by the tarmac to watch the planes land and take off. And when we went to get back in and start it that's when it wouldn't start. Just that one click. All the wires are good and connected. I have relatively new terminals with no corrosion or gunk on them.
 
I've spent countless hours looking into every imaginable performance part for sports cars and now for trucks and this is the first time I hear about a "performance starter".


It was what came up on my Google search when I put in "starter+2005+Toyota+4runner" and it suggested that..I wasn't sure if they exist to begin with but figured I'd throw it out there just in case. Here in houston the car scene is big, so performance is probably searched a lot. Lol
 
If you feel like throwing money at your truck based on what the tow truck driver thought your issue might be, have at it. On the other hand, if you'd like to isolate your trouble before fixing it, here's how you know for damned sure if your starter is bad or not.

1) Put the truck in Park, with the ebrake on.
2) Get some moderately heavy gauge wire and terminate it on the positive battery post.
3) Turn the key to the On position, and doublecheck that you're still in Park with the ebrake on.
3) Strip the other end back and touch it to the starter solenoid post on the starter - this is the connection with the smaller wire. If the starter and solenoid are functional, THIS WILL START THE MOTOR, so for gods sake have it in Park with the ebrake on, and don't have any body parts anywhere near the radiator fan or belts on the front of the motor :D.

Anyway, if that cranks the motor, then you know your starter and battery are good and you can look elsewhere for the issue (wiring, relays, electrical shit). If that doesn't do it, check your voltage level on the battery before you pull the starter - a battery can have enough juice to power lights but not enough to turn the engine over. If the test doesn't work and the battery is good, THEN you know you have a bad starter. I suggest taking it into a starter repair shop or rebuilding it yourself over buying a new one, but that's your call.
 
Do you happen to know what contacts will fit in our starters? I've tried to search but get a lot of conflicting information. I think I have the cold weather starter if it makes a difference.

No idea, sorry. User GHARP is a parts counter guy, I bet he'd look it up for you.
 
If you feel like throwing money at your truck based on what the tow truck driver thought your issue might be, have at it. On the other hand, if you'd like to isolate your trouble before fixing it, here's how you know for damned sure if your starter is bad or not.

1) Put the truck in Park, with the ebrake on.
2) Get some moderately heavy gauge wire and terminate it on the positive battery post.
3) Turn the key to the On position, and doublecheck that you're still in Park with the ebrake on.
3) Strip the other end back and touch it to the starter solenoid post on the starter - this is the connection with the smaller wire. If the starter and solenoid are functional, THIS WILL START THE MOTOR, so for gods sake have it in Park with the ebrake on, and don't have any body parts anywhere near the radiator fan or belts on the front of the motor :D.

Anyway, if that cranks the motor, then you know your starter and battery are good and you can look elsewhere for the issue (wiring, relays, electrical shit). If that doesn't do it, check your voltage level on the battery before you pull the starter - a battery can have enough juice to power lights but not enough to turn the engine over. If the test doesn't work and the battery is good, THEN you know you have a bad starter. I suggest taking it into a starter repair shop or rebuilding it yourself over buying a new one, but that's your call.



Okay will do and why repair the starter or rebuild? I'm guessing chesper?
 
I would checkout your battery terminals and battery first. I had the same thing happen to me a few weeks ago. Voltage meter read 12.57, all lights and radio worked great, and when I tried to start it all I got was a single click. Tried jumping from the relay and you could still only hear the single click. Replaced the starter and the problem remained. Replaced battery and battery cable terminals and it fired right up. I was pissed for days.

Also, check amazon for parts. When I bought my starter I bought a Denso (OEM supplier), and there's no core charge for them.
 
I would checkout your battery terminals and battery first. I had the same thing happen to me a few weeks ago. Voltage meter read 12.57, all lights and radio worked great, and when I tried to start it all I got was a single click. Tried jumping from the relay and you could still only hear the single click. Replaced the starter and the problem remained. Replaced battery and battery cable terminals and it fired right up. I was pissed for days.

Also, check amazon for parts. When I bought my starter I bought a Denso (OEM supplier), and there's no core charge for them.

I'm on super limited income. Terminals are like new so I don't think it is them. Secondly had battery tested and seemed test came fine..so that's why I supose it is starter
 
Tools needed

Does anyone know if there are special tools to fix the starter?? And if no special tools generally what is needed to fix it ?
 
Does anyone know if there are special tools to fix the starter?? And if no special tools generally what is needed to fix it ?

Youre going to just need to get under there with some sockets and figure it out. Buy a Haynes/Chilton if you want, ebay has them for 15-20 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chilton-Rep...ash=item4d2fb5d0bd:g:PLYAAOSwU9xUOSmy&vxp=mtr), or go to autozone/oreillys and look at one they have there. If the connections and lines look good from the battery to the starter, you can pull the starter and autozone will test it for you.

In-Store Services | In Our Stores | AutoZone.com

The starter below is for my 04 v6 SR5.

Duralast Gold/Starter DLG17876 - Read Reviews on Duralast Gold #DLG17876

ps; if you're going to take the starter in for testing, you should take your battery in for testing too.

pss; i would buy the new one because of the lifetime warranty. i've replaced 3 starters on 3 different cars, but never had to replace the same one twice.
 
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