Photo Timeline of my 4Runner {LOTS OF PICS}

So I got the alignment set just where I want it...
vj8u.jpg

about 10* of positive caster and about 5* positive toe for each wheel

Wobble is better but still not gone.
I don't think it's the geometry, truck is insanely stable otherwise and flat through corners. It's in the steering and it's only over bumps...picking up my driveshaft tomorrow and ordered a TG steering stabilizer so we'll see.

Also wanna have my coilovers looked at by someone who's good with them to make sure the oil level and nitrogen pressures are right; thinking it might have something to do with the shock's ability to absorb and rebound...maybe? Grasping at straws at this point...
 
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I would try out the steering stabilizer first and see where that gets you before you start messing with the coilovers.

Fox's are a pretty quality shock and I would think you would notice any issue with the coilovers through any turn or any time you speed up or slow down. If all of those are solid then I would shy away from the coilovers as the culprit.
 
I would try out the steering stabilizer first and see where that gets you before you start messing with the coilovers.

Fox's are a pretty quality shock and I would think you would notice any issue with the coilovers through any turn or any time you speed up or slow down. If all of those are solid then I would shy away from the coilovers as the culprit.

Yeah I'd like to think they're good to go as well but I don't know what else there could be...got some alignment specs from Scotty that I'm gonna try...worth a shot
 
Yeah I'd like to think they're good to go as well but I don't know what else there could be...got some alignment specs from Scotty that I'm gonna try...worth a shot

Fine tuning the setup is always what takes the most time for sure.

You will get there, just keep plugging away at it.
 
Yeah I'd like to think they're good to go as well but I don't know what else there could be...got some alignment specs from Scotty that I'm gonna try...worth a shot

Also I just had a friend who did a SAS on his 95 and he had death wobble until we finally put a 3 foot extension on a breaker bar and tightened his pittman arm more than I thought was possible but it took care of it. Just a suggestion and I love the build. Keep plugging you will find the cause of the wobble.
 
Also I just had a friend who did a SAS on his 95 and he had death wobble until we finally put a 3 foot extension on a breaker bar and tightened his pittman arm more than I thought was possible but it took care of it. Just a suggestion and I love the build. Keep plugging you will find the cause of the wobble.

I creamed that thing with my impact gun so I'd like to think its tight...but I'll try!
 
So I spend the day adjusting, driving and repeating...set the caster everywhere between +10* to -5* with no change in the occurrence or intensity of the death wobble...safe to say it's not the cause?
 
So I spend the day adjusting, driving and repeating...set the caster everywhere between +10* to -5* with no change in the occurrence or intensity of the death wobble...safe to say it's not the cause?

Yup lol sounds like you've exhausted all that. What did noclinkers say about the link geometry?
 
Yup lol sounds like you've exhausted all that. What did noclinkers say about the link geometry?

Haven't heard from him yet, but I texted my buddy Dan who did the setup to see if we could punch in all my numbers and see if it all jives still. Might have an issue. Here's something else I noticed...

Driver's side coilover...
u3b3.jpg

Passenger side coilover...
zgog.jpg


The driver's side needs to be jacked up about 1.5" in order for the frame to be level on both sides...addressed this with Dan also, so we'll see
 
Might be onto something...

Talked to Scotty for a good 15 minutes about the possible options and how to find each one...decided to get the truck in the driveway and have someone turn the steering wheel back and fourth to look for movement or slop...and I found something...

Looks like the reamed hole in the passenger side TRE is maybe reamed a little too big...the drag link end moves wayy too much in there. Gonna pull it and try to shim it with a washer first, if that doesn't do it I'm gonna get a new TRE and re-ream it correctly and go from there...

Unfortunately won't have the time to try any of this tomorrow, but I'll be taking the truck into work on Friday to get the alignment specs back on point (since I've been messing with them all day) and get that washer under the castle nut.
 
.decided to get the truck in the driveway and have someone turn the steering wheel back and fourth to look for movement or slop...and I found something...

Looks like the reamed hole in the passenger side TRE is maybe reamed a little too big...the drag link end moves wayy too much in there. Gonna pull it and try to shim it with a washer first, if that doesn't do it I'm gonna get a new TRE and re-ream it correctly and go from there...

:thumb3:

guarantee thats your problem. glad my advice helped!

I've welded the washer over my track bar mount before to prevent it from moving in the wallow hole. When you put a smaller washer without a weld, the washer will just move with the stud in the hole. I'm thinking since you have such a killer setup, might as well do it correctly and re-ream it.
 
Oh absolutely.

Seems like an obvious step in the right direction at least. If you can see movement, its a bad thing. ;):

Looking forward to see if we have a winner.
Fingers crossed! Outta work at 4:30...

:thumb3:

guarantee thats your problem. glad my advice helped!

I've welded the washer over my track bar mount before to prevent it from moving in the wallow hole. When you put a smaller washer without a weld, the washer will just move with the stud in the hole. I'm thinking since you have such a killer setup, might as well do it correctly and re-ream it.
My track bar is fine, it's where the drag link drives the passenger TRE. I think the hole in the TRE (since they're not reamed for a 1-ton end) was reamed too big and that's where my play is coming from. I think if I put a washer under the nut it'll suck the rod end into the tapered seat further and tighten it up...if not I'll get a Moog TRE and ream it myself.

Looks awesome!
Thanks man! Can't wait to have something other than driveway pictures lol
 
My track bar is fine, it's where the drag link drives the passenger TRE. I think the hole in the TRE (since they're not reamed for a 1-ton end) was reamed too big and that's where my play is coming from. I think if I put a washer under the nut it'll suck the rod end into the tapered seat further and tighten it up...if not I'll get a Moog TRE and ream it myself.

I know its not your track bar, just giving my 2 cents from my experience of wallowed holes and washers. Good luck, keep us updated.
 
So the washer didn't do the trick...the rod end is bottomed out, the tapered hole is just too big...picked up a new TRE, bringing it to by buddy who had the 1-ton ream and trying again



Side note: 1000th post!
 

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