LINY4Runner
New member
that was one of the first things I tried:rain:
Photo Timeline of my 4Runner {LOTS OF PICS}
- Thread starter LINY4Runner
- Start date
that was one of the first things I tried:rain:
rbx
New member
Saw you posted a while ago on yotatech....
http://www.yotatech.com/f152/01-4run...o-flat-279197/
Someone posted up over there saying you are having trouble with handling, I'm no expert, but I just finished up my first SAS using the 4Wheel Underground kit. I gained a ton of help from the 4WU owner/developer and forum.
here is my thread if you are interested...
http://chat.4wheelunderground.com/index.php?topic=246.0
My handling issues stemmed from a few different things, caster being one of them as well as an IFS steering box that was in need of a rebuild.
I'm trying to skim your thread to see what you've done.
http://www.yotatech.com/f152/01-4run...o-flat-279197/
Someone posted up over there saying you are having trouble with handling, I'm no expert, but I just finished up my first SAS using the 4Wheel Underground kit. I gained a ton of help from the 4WU owner/developer and forum.
here is my thread if you are interested...
http://chat.4wheelunderground.com/index.php?topic=246.0
My handling issues stemmed from a few different things, caster being one of them as well as an IFS steering box that was in need of a rebuild.
I'm trying to skim your thread to see what you've done.
rbx
New member
Saw you posted a while ago on yotatech....
01 4Runner - SAS - Is my steering too flat? - YotaTech Forums
Someone posted up over there saying you are having trouble with handling, I'm no expert, but I just finished up my first SAS using the 4Wheel Underground kit. I gained a ton of help from the 4WU owner/developer and forum.
here is my thread if you are interested...
RBx '88 4Runner modifaddiction
My handling issues stemmed from a few different things, caster being one of them as well as an IFS steering box that was in need of a rebuild.
I'm trying to skim your thread to see what you've done.
01 4Runner - SAS - Is my steering too flat? - YotaTech Forums
Someone posted up over there saying you are having trouble with handling, I'm no expert, but I just finished up my first SAS using the 4Wheel Underground kit. I gained a ton of help from the 4WU owner/developer and forum.
here is my thread if you are interested...
RBx '88 4Runner modifaddiction
My handling issues stemmed from a few different things, caster being one of them as well as an IFS steering box that was in need of a rebuild.
I'm trying to skim your thread to see what you've done.
Dropzone
New member
when you built your axle did you have any problems aligning your axles in the housing?
Just wondering if your 29 year old housing could be tweaked.
Several builders have said they would never use a used housing again, they would use a Ruff Stuff, Diamond or T-G Rock Assault (some of which have been tweaked from the mfg)
Just wondering if your 29 year old housing could be tweaked.
Several builders have said they would never use a used housing again, they would use a Ruff Stuff, Diamond or T-G Rock Assault (some of which have been tweaked from the mfg)
Oh ok. Thanks everyone.
Well as I expected. I had the axle checked by someone else and the same results. Its crooked. TG did offer that if I paid to ship the axle to them they would look at it. If they didnt find anything wrong with it I would be paying shipping back. Thats the norm with anyone. I was also told by their tech (the guy that builds the axles) that it probably doesnt have anything wrong with it because "Every axle is exactly the same as the last one" Thats the way our jig is designed.
So I decided to check another axle that was here. Just to see if this was true.
Well,
my jig is an empty third with aluminum pucks in place of the carrier with a hole through them which my bar slides through very tight.
How the bar looks in the knuckle ball is how you can tell if the axle is straight with the third. The bar will simulate your inner axle shaft and how it will align with the center of the axle seal.
So this means that TG tech is close to being correct "they are ALL the same" this one isnt much better but it IS in fact a little more straight.:shaking:
JWaldz
Moderator
You beat me to it..
I've only skimmed through the last couple pages so this might have already been discussed earlier on. Are you sure it's not the housing? It doesn't take much tweaking of one to cause problems. Especially on a old manufactured one. Everything may bolt up just fine and aesthetically look good but the housing being slightly bent or twisted in a way can cause some of the issues you're having. It seems you've covered all your bases everywhere else, it's the only thing I can think of.
rbx
New member
I started reading around page 50...here is what i gleaned from the thread.
Toyota knuckle caster should be 6°, you go from 4.5° straight to 10°...tooo much. I set everything in my driveway. get an angle finder on the top flat spot on your hi-steer and adjust your upper link. That should be 6° with the hi-steer arm raising upwards(if that makes sense).
I did see mentioned to check your knuckle trunion bearing pre-load. too tight and the truck will wander, or dart....it makes the steering not want to return to center is too tight, which will feel like the truck wanders.
Does your steering return to center without any driver input? A worn or steering box in need of adjustment on the worm gear can give the same affect. I reused my IFS steering box which seemed fine with the IFS, once the SFA was finished...no good, had to get another one.
Also mentioned in your thread was talking about keep everything flat....flat links(yours are at a steep angle), this applies to the panhard and drag link.
A high drag link angle with combination of panhard not being at the same angle, or long enough could contribute to DW. can you lower the front lift more.
I'm no expert, just some things to look at. Don't give up, it's a combination of small things, you'll get it worked out, took me a while also. You are almost there.
Toyota knuckle caster should be 6°, you go from 4.5° straight to 10°...tooo much. I set everything in my driveway. get an angle finder on the top flat spot on your hi-steer and adjust your upper link. That should be 6° with the hi-steer arm raising upwards(if that makes sense).
I did see mentioned to check your knuckle trunion bearing pre-load. too tight and the truck will wander, or dart....it makes the steering not want to return to center is too tight, which will feel like the truck wanders.
Does your steering return to center without any driver input? A worn or steering box in need of adjustment on the worm gear can give the same affect. I reused my IFS steering box which seemed fine with the IFS, once the SFA was finished...no good, had to get another one.
Also mentioned in your thread was talking about keep everything flat....flat links(yours are at a steep angle), this applies to the panhard and drag link.
A high drag link angle with combination of panhard not being at the same angle, or long enough could contribute to DW. can you lower the front lift more.
I'm no expert, just some things to look at. Don't give up, it's a combination of small things, you'll get it worked out, took me a while also. You are almost there.
Dropzone
New member
ok, like RBX i went back through to about page 30 to see if i could spot anything else.
It is great that Scotty of AOR chimed in, he is one of the shops that I know has sworn off used front ends.
It looks like you realize that MTR's aren't the best tire out there. I went with a set, returned them after 500 miles because they are like a bias ply, they talked me into a 2nd set of them as 3 out of 5 tires were out of round. 1 year later I wish I had gone with BFG's or a set of Duratracs.
Have you borrowed a set of tires from someone else's truck? I think you have realized why someone dumped a set of 5 tires as cheap as they did.
personally I would not re ream a set of steering arms and go with an insert(if I read your thread correctly), I would replace them.
You are positive everything is tight?
it looks like a jam nut is loose in this pic:
your thread is actually pretty done hard to follow due to the size of your pictures and having to scroll both up and down
It is great that Scotty of AOR chimed in, he is one of the shops that I know has sworn off used front ends.
It looks like you realize that MTR's aren't the best tire out there. I went with a set, returned them after 500 miles because they are like a bias ply, they talked me into a 2nd set of them as 3 out of 5 tires were out of round. 1 year later I wish I had gone with BFG's or a set of Duratracs.
Have you borrowed a set of tires from someone else's truck? I think you have realized why someone dumped a set of 5 tires as cheap as they did.
personally I would not re ream a set of steering arms and go with an insert(if I read your thread correctly), I would replace them.
You are positive everything is tight?
it looks like a jam nut is loose in this pic:
your thread is actually pretty done hard to follow due to the size of your pictures and having to scroll both up and down
LINY4Runner
New member
yeah...when imageshack went pay-to-play, all the pictures los their resizing information
LINY4Runner
New member
lots of good suggestions...
All fasteners and jam nuts are tight.
Geometry is correct.
Drag link to Track bar geometry is good.
Spacers are removed.
Caster is 5.5*.
Toe is -1.5* (toe-in)
Tires are balanced and rotated.
Knuckle pre-load is exact.
IFS box is a rebuilt unit, so it should be good. Should.
next on to-do list...
Have oil level and nitro pressure on coilovers corrected after finally mounting the reservoirs correctly.
Swap wheel/tire assemblies with a buddy who's got lug-centric steelies that are smooth as glass on his Hilux.
Remove body lift to eliminate possible binding on steering shaft u-joints.
Poke it with a stick as per Steve's recommendation.
All fasteners and jam nuts are tight.
Geometry is correct.
Drag link to Track bar geometry is good.
Spacers are removed.
Caster is 5.5*.
Toe is -1.5* (toe-in)
Tires are balanced and rotated.
Knuckle pre-load is exact.
IFS box is a rebuilt unit, so it should be good. Should.
next on to-do list...
Have oil level and nitro pressure on coilovers corrected after finally mounting the reservoirs correctly.
Swap wheel/tire assemblies with a buddy who's got lug-centric steelies that are smooth as glass on his Hilux.
Remove body lift to eliminate possible binding on steering shaft u-joints.
Poke it with a stick as per Steve's recommendation.
TheArkMaster
New member
God, Every time I look at this thread I just start scratching my head confused. I wish I had some info or idea to input. Good luck and may you find the issue, and may it be inexpensive!
rbx
New member
I wish I was closer, to take a look/drive(not that I think I know the issue). I was at my wits end a few times. Unfortunately I had no one to test drive my truck or compare it to another SAS
snip...
Caster is 5.5*.>>>> this should be 6° to 7° I had run 5°, mistakenly, now I'm a touch over 6° and it's night and day difference. I know 5.5° is close, and maybe it won't make a difference.
Toe is -1.5* (toe-in)>>> this may be fine, but I am not sure what 1.5° toe in is...translate...my toe-in on 35"s was 1/8" then I changed it to 1/4", and the truck drives better at 3/16"(about). again all done in my driveway, just saying you could adjust it yourself if needed.
I moved my axle 3" forward during my build so I am also sitting at 106" wheelbase.
I did take it to an alignment shop and had them use the 85' 4Runner specifications, then I took it home and adjusted the caster and toe. The alignment was close based on my driveway method....I really took it to get a second opinion on the alignment. The mechanic that aligned it told me that i'd always have to use two hands to drive it....he was wrong, but a very reputable alignment specialist.
snip...
Caster is 5.5*.>>>> this should be 6° to 7° I had run 5°, mistakenly, now I'm a touch over 6° and it's night and day difference. I know 5.5° is close, and maybe it won't make a difference.
Toe is -1.5* (toe-in)>>> this may be fine, but I am not sure what 1.5° toe in is...translate...my toe-in on 35"s was 1/8" then I changed it to 1/4", and the truck drives better at 3/16"(about). again all done in my driveway, just saying you could adjust it yourself if needed.
I moved my axle 3" forward during my build so I am also sitting at 106" wheelbase.
I did take it to an alignment shop and had them use the 85' 4Runner specifications, then I took it home and adjusted the caster and toe. The alignment was close based on my driveway method....I really took it to get a second opinion on the alignment. The mechanic that aligned it told me that i'd always have to use two hands to drive it....he was wrong, but a very reputable alignment specialist.
4Running Daily
New member
[MENTION=8883]LINY4Runner[/MENTION] Are you alive?
t4r4life
Elite Member
he is all about that FRS now, pretty sure sunny got stuff in a corner somewhere :sobbing:
t4r4life
Elite Member
yeah he bought a FRS and got into autocross.
wow that's close, if you ever come to visit, let me know, we'll go grab some brews.
4Running Daily
New member
[MENTION=8883]LINY4Runner[/MENTION] Where are you?
