Photos of Rooftop Cargo Boxes

couldn't resist

DYI roof top box :pound:
 

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I've got the Thule Force XT L on LFD cross bars (much closer to the height of the factory bars than my old Yakima bars) and I don't think I'd be able to get an XL to fit, clear the sharkfin and the spoiler when the hatch is open.

I have the Thule Force XT XL on LFD bars (and factory rails) (5th Gen T4R). I'm using the LFD bar with the integrated wind fairing on the front. To mount the Force XT XL with no hatch contact, it needs to be pushed almost entirely forward and carriage bolts (or something else) used to mount on the front bar. The Thule feet will not wrap around the LFD wind fairing. If I was OK with hatch contact, I could use the Thule mounting system on a 2nd and 3rd crossbar.

I like the convenience of the Thule mounting system, and I want to keep the wind fairing on the front (without modification). I also don't like how far past the front bar the XT XL sits with no support, so I'm downsizing the box.
 
I have the Thule Force XT XL on LFD bars (and factory rails) (5th Gen T4R). I'm using the LFD bar with the integrated wind fairing on the front. To mount the Force XT XL with no hatch contact, it needs to be pushed almost entirely forward and carriage bolts (or something else) used to mount on the front bar. The Thule feet will not wrap around the LFD wind fairing. If I was OK with hatch contact, I could use the Thule mounting system on a 2nd and 3rd crossbar.

I like the convenience of the Thule mounting system, and I want to keep the wind fairing on the front (without modification). I also don't like how far past the front bar the XT XL sits with no support, so I'm downsizing the box.

I am having a similar issue with the Yakima 16 skybox. Currently have two LFD crossbars and the new LFD crossbar with integrated wind fairing. The wrap around clamps of the Yakima will not fit between th3 first crossbar with the wind fairing and the second crossbar, given that they need to be pushed all the way to the front to allow the hatch to fully open. I was hoping the Thule Force XT L would work, with the slimmer clamp design, however from your post it seems the XL model has the same problem as the yakima. Any idea if the L model would work, it is a bit shorter.

I somewhat prefer the thule force boxes because they have metal rails, which give them a 40 lbs capacity increase over the yakima, which is all plastic. The problem is, can you really use the full 165 lb capacity of rhe thule box? 165 plus 40 lbs for the box weight, plus another 15 lbs for the LFD bars technically exceeds the capacity of the stock roof rails.

Another reason I prefer the thule box is that it is thinner. The yakima box takes up almost all of the span of the LFD bars, which are quite short in comparison to other rood racks, at 40 inches. I could probably fit a plano box/kayak mount/gas can next to the thule box, but not the yakima.

Finally, i have considered getting a 3/4 roof rack. However, I have not found a roof rack that works with the Thule Force box, because of its front lip. It seems tbe Yakima is a better fit for roof racks, although it is wider and leaves less space for other uses. The LFD roof rack is nice, but again, is kinda narrow.

Appreciate any ideas here. Have I missed any options?
 
$3 solution for fit and wind noise with Yakima Skybox 16 on LFD crossbars.

As mentioned, the clamps on the Skybox won't work with the LFD fairing. I have a set of four crossbars and the removable fairing. With the removable fairing you can adjust how far in or out the fairing sits, but still the Yakima clamps are too long. Love the bars, and the fairing keeps them whisper quiet. I got them specifically for the skybox I've had for years (and other things [emoji41]) and was disappointed to see the trouble people ran into here. At first I thought I could just take the fairing off and run without. NOPE. Serious wind noise! With the box on it started between 25-30mph and got louder from there.

My MacGyver fix was to put a piece of foam pipe insulation in the front crossbar and hold it there with some zip ties. I know, cheep as hell, but it worked! I went for a test drive at speeds up to 85 and had very little wind noise! At 70, 75, 80, and 85 I had more normal 4runner road noise than wind noise.

Happy to have this solved. We've got a trip to the Badlands and Black Hills planned for late summer and a possible Griswold style road trip to Northern California in mid September.
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I have read through this entire thread and havent been able to determine which boxes actually fit on stock crossbars without fin/hatch interference. Which box is recommended without modification?
 
I am having a similar issue with the Yakima 16 skybox. Currently have two LFD crossbars and the new LFD crossbar with integrated wind fairing. The wrap around clamps of the Yakima will not fit between th3 first crossbar with the wind fairing and the second crossbar, given that they need to be pushed all the way to the front to allow the hatch to fully open. I was hoping the Thule Force XT L would work, with the slimmer clamp design, however from your post it seems the XL model has the same problem as the yakima. Any idea if the L model would work, it is a bit shorter.

I somewhat prefer the thule force boxes because they have metal rails, which give them a 40 lbs capacity increase over the yakima, which is all plastic. The problem is, can you really use the full 165 lb capacity of rhe thule box? 165 plus 40 lbs for the box weight, plus another 15 lbs for the LFD bars technically exceeds the capacity of the stock roof rails.

Another reason I prefer the thule box is that it is thinner. The yakima box takes up almost all of the span of the LFD bars, which are quite short in comparison to other rood racks, at 40 inches. I could probably fit a plano box/kayak mount/gas can next to the thule box, but not the yakima.

Finally, i have considered getting a 3/4 roof rack. However, I have not found a roof rack that works with the Thule Force box, because of its front lip. It seems tbe Yakima is a better fit for roof racks, although it is wider and leaves less space for other uses. The LFD roof rack is nice, but again, is kinda narrow.

Appreciate any ideas here. Have I missed any options?

I am using a XT Sport (the smallest of Force line) with LFD bars (1 integrated fairing, 2 standard) on stock rails. I mount the box on the two standard bars, with the front one positioned not too far behind the integrated fairing bar. I have no problem with hatch clearance and because the box is narrower it can be mounted to one side, leaving the other side free for more stuff if necessary.
 
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I have read through this entire thread and havent been able to determine which boxes actually fit on stock crossbars without fin/hatch interference. Which box is recommended without modification?

I'm able to put a Thule Force XT L on mine with stock crossbars. The front crossbar will have to be all the way forward and just adjust the rear crossbar to fit. You'll be able to clear the fin and hatch. Clearance between the clamps and roof has been a concern in the past. Tbh I haven't had any issues with it, the most I've loaded it with is just family luggage (80lbs if I had to guess). I've had it with about 60lbs while going off road, it seemed fine.
 
I have a Yakima Skybox 16 I want to run on a TRD Pro Rack. Can I use the factory crossbars, they are thin, or do I need an additional set of bars or attachments? Thanks-
 
Got a good deal on a Yakima Skybox 18 which I mounted on Yakima crossbars. The only issue I'm having is with the tailgate clearance. Looked through a lot of threads and see a few people addressed that by drilling new holes to move it forward a couple more inches. I'm inclined to do that but wanted to see if anyone that also did that had any issues afterwards. Is it an issue having the box that far forward past a crossbar? Thanks!
 
Took some figuring... but this is my "summer" set up:

54" Thule Evo crossbars w the Thule Motion XT L in the middle.

One the sides I still have room for my MaxTraxs and small awning (travel solo) and 4 gallon Roadshower (usually don't travel w it full)

Total weight I keep under 175 - 185lbs depending on if I take water or more/less camping gear in the box (but usually light stuff > tent, cot, bags, fishing gear)

Moving into winter I'll keep the Maxtrax there, remove everything else and am going to try mounting a medium size Pelican Vault to have some storage there for messier/wet things.

Overall like being able to take everything off, including the crossbars fast, if needed. Can't convince myself on a full size rack yet, too much weight, dealing with cleaning it off in snow and ice... this set up still allows me some gear collection without effect mpgs all that much. (Providence to Maine highway averaged 21 - 22 mpg)(stock size KO2's - 44/45 psi)
 

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