Pink Milkshake!! -Rookie-

dnath28

New member
Hey all..

Had a 4runner since about 2008. Bought with about 60k miles on it or so and its at about 192k. The past 5 years I kept up with typical things like oil changes and air filters...etc.

Just experienced a "Pink milkshake" a few days ago. Car has been sitting in driveway since. I called up my buddy and he diagnosed it and just ordered everything I needed to update what I can, now that I'm concerned about the health of my vehicle. This was after reading on what things I SHOULD have been doing all along. (hope I am not too late, to keep my baby running).

I purchased 6 new spark plugs, some wires, transmission filter, new radiator and 5 gallons of ATF dextron 3. was looking for a distributor cap and rotor to swap out but I guess 4runners don't have this so I shouldn't worry about that?

I am a rookie with cars and this forum but I learned a lot so far and want to tackle this project without going to the "stealership".

I am looking to:

1. swap out the radiator, and then was advised to clean out the lines (running to my engine) with water?

2. drain out all the transmission fluid, then flush out the fluid by taking off supply hose and running it into a bucket while i turn car off and on and keep adding fluid until it is clean and clear.

3. change out trans filter.

4. replace spark plugs and wires..

5. put the red coolant back into the radiator.

I think I read up enough on how to do everything but what should the order be in how I tackle all of this. should I flush out first then change radiator?

How do I go about cleaning out the radiator engine lines with water? And is there any other advice or maintenance I should also perform besides all of this?

I am a rookie so reply in layman terms for me. So far this site has been great in teaching me. Looking forward to some bonding time with my 4runner. Its time to have a better relationship with her.:thumb3:

Thanks for all the help,
Dan
 
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Hello yinzer!
Sounds like you've got the general idea on how to do it all. I would put the new radiator in first, since that is where the issue began. You can't begin to flush the systems with the old one still in because the coolant and t-fluid will continue to mix.
The plugs and wires can wait. They are part of a completely separate engine system.
Some auto shops can do power flushes on transmissions (read up on these) and coolant systems so perhaps you could consider paying to have that done if you have the funds and desire to do so, other wise it's going to be a fill-drain-fill cycle until you're satisfied.

Let us know more about your ride. Year model and trim would be a good start.
 
Don't do a power flush toyota says not to do it and I have seen many people have issues after them and have to totally replace the transmission. Just drain and fill sounds like you know what your doing. JUst make sure to get a transmission pan gasket it will save you a lot of time in the long run. Good luck
 
be prepared to buy a new trans...


you will need a new rad, and id suggest using a stand alone trans cooler.

make sure you only use either NGK or Denso dual electrode spark plugs, and NGK or Denso plug wires.

to flush out the engine id first flush out your old radiator and get that cleaned out... then use a garden hose to flush out the motor using the the old radiator. run the heaters on high and make sure you allow the motor to get nice and warm(this is of course after you have done the trans flushes... having the cruddy collant in the motor while flushing the trans wont hurt the motor, so no worries there) then pull the old radiator and and let as much of the coolant(water) drain out of the motor and then install the new radiator and fill with the desired coolant. thats how i would do this...

also its worth noting that the factory transmission filter is a joke, its just a screen, not a true filter. id suggest getting one of these Magnefine 3/8 Inch Magnetic Inline Transmission Filter
 
Found out how to check my replies.. Thanks for the response guys..

Okay so I think im getting confused regarding a filter and what I purchased. I think I bought a "transmission pan gasket" but unsure what this exactly is.. (like I said im a noob). This is kind like what I purchased 2001 Toyota 4Runner Automatic Transmission Filter Replacement, Direct fit

I think I will just first take out the radiator and then put the supply line into a bucket of water with the coolant feed also cleaned out and just run the car to eliminate having to clean out the old radiator and reinstalling it. Would this be okay too [MENTION=60147]the kid[/MENTION]? Or is this what your saying? Just have the feed coming back from the engine go into my old radiator?

Also, what exactly is the magnetic inline filter? It looks nothing like what the "filter" I thought I was buying...

And I did buy both NGK plugs and wires.

Sorry for the basic questions.. like I said, literally the first time working on something for real on my car.. trying to get the hang of this here..

and also [MENTION=60147]the kid[/MENTION].. you said be prepared to buy a new trans??? If this is the case I will probably just try and sell the vehicle.. You think I will have to really do this?!?! :sobbing:
 
Don't do a power flush toyota says not to do it and I have seen many people have issues after them and have to totally replace the transmission. Just drain and fill sounds like you know what your doing. JUst make sure to get a transmission pan gasket it will save you a lot of time in the long run. Good luck


I disagree. I had a Trans "power" flush (the machine) done at a Toyota dealership about 5 years ago and I haven't had any transmission problems to date. I have 221,000 miles on my truck. I've owned it since 65k miles.
 
Found out how to check my replies.. Thanks for the response guys..

Okay so I think im getting confused regarding a filter and what I purchased. I think I bought a "transmission pan gasket" but unsure what this exactly is.. (like I said im a noob). This is kind like what I purchased 2001 Toyota 4Runner Automatic Transmission Filter Replacement, Direct fit

I think I will just first take out the radiator and then put the supply line into a bucket of water with the coolant feed also cleaned out and just run the car to eliminate having to clean out the old radiator and reinstalling it. Would this be okay too [MENTION=60147]the kid[/MENTION]? Or is this what your saying? Just have the feed coming back from the engine go into my old radiator?

Also, what exactly is the magnetic inline filter? It looks nothing like what the "filter" I thought I was buying...

And I did buy both NGK plugs and wires.

Sorry for the basic questions.. like I said, literally the first time working on something for real on my car.. trying to get the hang of this here..

and also [MENTION=60147]the kid[/MENTION].. you said be prepared to buy a new trans??? If this is the case I will probably just try and sell the vehicle.. You think I will have to really do this?!?! :sobbing:

yes its a real possibility that you will have to replace the trans.

yeah the reason that filter does not look anything like the one you bought, is because the one you bought is the oe replacement... the stock "filter" in these is not really a filter at all, its just a fine mesh screen... it only keeps big things out like chunks of metal or other bigger items. it does not filter at all... the link i gave you is for a real filter, that will actually filter out any foreign debris in the system/fluid
 
I would trans fluid exchange with a bucket. Turning the engine on and off like you mentioned. After the trans fluid is bright red. Connect the 2 trans cooler lines. Together. Better yet get a seperate trans cooler. Then run a garden hose in the old radiator and flush it out.

Rip the transmission pan out. Drain and fill back up. Install a new radiator and transmission cooler lines back up.
 
Any reason you never replaced the radiator? One of the first things I did with my truck, cheap and pretty simple.

My previous posts state why. 1. Im a noob. 2. I never really did any big maintenance on my 4runner.

I will keep the rest of yinz in mind with some updates. I am looking to work in the snow today. Gonna be freezing out but have to get this done.

I will look to return that stock filter and get the filter for the link you sent me. It is less expensive and looks like it does a better job than stock filter.

Once again, i am still confused to what a transmission pan gasket is, if anyone could help..

thanks again!
 
Let us know if the transmission survives. usually the pink milkshake makes the tranny a goner :(

If you caught it in time you may be ok! Someone I work with bought one with the milkshake, said the trans was toast. We did a flush and it ended up being ok!
 
My previous posts state why. 1. Im a noob. 2. I never really did any big maintenance on my 4runner.

I will keep the rest of yinz in mind with some updates. I am looking to work in the snow today. Gonna be freezing out but have to get this done.

I will look to return that stock filter and get the filter for the link you sent me. It is less expensive and looks like it does a better job than stock filter.

Once again, i am still confused to what a transmission pan gasket is, if anyone could help..

thanks again!


I think more explanation is needed:

Don't return the $25 replacement filter you bought, it's still cleaner than the factory one, and I would definitely use it. Take the factory one off, put the new one on. Then add that Magnafine inline filter in the tubing that goes to the bottom of the radiator (into the trans cooler)


However, before you take the pan of the bottom of the transmission to change the filter, FLUSH the transmission with at least 3-4 gallons of DEX III. You have one chance to save the transmission, and that is to get ALL of the contaminated fluid out as soon as possible. The clutch packs may be ok if it didn't mix too horribly bad in the first place, AND you get all the old fluid out pronto. The longer the clutch material is exposed to water/coolant, the less chance you have of saving the transmission.





Back to the trans pan. After you have flushed and flushed and flushed......and you are ready to drop the pan and install the new filter, you will find that there is a lot of pink FIPG (form in place gasket....it's like RTV) that will end up being left on both the pan and the sealing surface of the transmission. You need to clean it all off carefully. The trans is harder, because it's soft aluminum and you don't want to gouge it. The pan is easy, it's steel, so a wire brush on a drill motor works great.

After you have the pan and the bottom of the trans clean, then you simply use that rubber gasket that came with the replacement filter. Follow the torque specs when reinstalling, but torque is a little tighter....the rubber gasket needs more torque than if you were using fresh FIPG again. Not a lot more, just a nice little hand torque, maybe 15-20 more in/lb's than spec.
 
Also, here is a great guide for flushing the transmission! Look it over, print it out, use it. :)

Transmission pan removal and flushing



In the Tutorial, he drops the pan and changes the filter before flushing. This is a normal maintence way of doing it. I personally would flush before changing the filter, since the old filter is contaminated already, and if you change the filter before flushing, you're just contaminating the new one too. Yes, technically if you flush it enough the new one will be clean again, but I still think I would flush, then drop the pan, then maybe even flush some more after 100-200 miles of driving on the new fluid.

Fluid is cheap. Transmissions aren't.
 
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You have one chance to save the transmission, and that is to get ALL of the contaminated fluid out as soon as possible. The clutch packs may be ok if it didn't mix too horribly bad in the first place, AND you get all the old fluid out pronto. The longer the clutch material is exposed to water/coolant, the less chance you have of saving the transmission.

Ugh. Im an idiot then. Still did not get to this project today due to the terrible weather and cold here in Pa, but with this news of the clutch material being exposed to coolant\water the longer... I am pretty sure the transmission will be toast. My 4runner has been sitting for at least a week in this state..

Possible good news is that I caught the milkshake right at the time it was slipping and stopped driving immediately. When I checked the dipstick zero fluid was on the stick showing that coolant\water and fluid all was not present, maybe meaning that no coolant\water would be mixed with the clutch material?? But maybe coolant\water would not even stick to dipstick in the first place...

Oh boy.. looks like this trans might be done for...

ill keep everyone posted.
 
My friend at the trans shop saidto catch it before the trans starts surging. (Slipping?) if it surges he said its too late the clutch material is already braking down.
 
My friend at the trans shop saidto catch it before the trans starts surging. (Slipping?) if it surges he said its too late the clutch material is already braking down.

So your saying the clutch material is breaking down as the car sits with coolant exposed to it? Or the clutch material has already broke down since the transmission slipped already while driving?
 
Don't do a power flush toyota says not to do it and I have seen many people have issues after them and have to totally replace the transmission. Just drain and fill sounds like you know what your doing. JUst make sure to get a transmission pan gasket it will save you a lot of time in the long run. Good luck

The term power flush is not correct. When using a flush machine (I've used several over the past few years), fluid is exchanged only as fast as the trans pump pumps it. You're not forcing it, not increasing any more pressure than it would normally have while driving. The whole rumor of not flushing is so incorrect, I can't believe people still believe that.

If someone has problems after a flush, it's probably because they had a flush done to try and remedy a previously present trans issue.
 
So how did you know that you had the strawberry milkshake then if there was no fluid on the dipstick? are you sure that you have the strawberry milkshake?

Possible good news is that I caught the milkshake right at the time it was slipping and stopped driving immediately. When I checked the dipstick zero fluid was on the stick showing that coolant\water and fluid all was not present, maybe meaning that no coolant\water would be mixed with the clutch material?? But maybe coolant\water would not even stick to dipstick in the first place...

Oh boy.. looks like this trans might be done for...

ill keep everyone posted.

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