GottaBeTRD
New member
EF!!! guys i cant get the glass seperated from the housing. its leaving small chips what should i do?
Planning my Projector retrofit
- Thread starter GottaBeTRD
- Start date
chad99
New member
If the glass is chipping then you might need to leave it in the oven longer, also I used a putty knife on mine (once i cut through the gray crap with the knife) since it spreads out the force so it doesn't chip.
Also note that the gray stuff should be gooey, if its still hard then put it back in the oven.
Also note that the gray stuff should be gooey, if its still hard then put it back in the oven.
GottaBeTRD
New member
everytrhing is still reall dry i cant even break the surface im doinf 300 for 7 min
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GottaBeTRD
New member
got it!! holly crap that got scary
note for those getting ready to do this. DO NOT pry it the first time you take it out!! bake ay 300 for at least 7 minutes, keep the oven on and cut away! one down one to go... think im gonna call it a night
note for those getting ready to do this. DO NOT pry it the first time you take it out!! bake ay 300 for at least 7 minutes, keep the oven on and cut away! one down one to go... think im gonna call it a night
Rock Slide
Senior Member
You didn't get the glue hot enough. Next time, bake them @ 350 for 5 mins.
A.Wilson013
New member
Excuse me for being lazy, but are you using factory or after market housings? I know with European cars the factory uses a silicone type sealant, and after market is a glue that needs to bake at a much higher temp. I ran into a similar problem before.
GottaBeTRD
New member
a little teaser pic... holy crap whoever said this is easy... i wouldn't say that lol! maybe its just cause im exhausted. should be done by tomorrow night.... hopefully
GottaBeTRD
New member
yeah thanks i did 300 for 10 minutes, took it out, scraped at it put it in for another 3 minutes took it out scraped at. did this about 3 or 4 times and finally got through it!
these are OEM by the way, i was thinking on buying aftermarket and i probably should have now that i see i cant really mount my LEDs where i want them unless i drill a hole. would these be a bad thing?? say if i seal the hole up when im done running wires through it?
these are OEM by the way, i was thinking on buying aftermarket and i probably should have now that i see i cant really mount my LEDs where i want them unless i drill a hole. would these be a bad thing?? say if i seal the hole up when im done running wires through it?
Rock Slide
Senior Member
As long as you seal the hole properly you're good.
BTW, the 1st retro you ever do is a true learning experience. They get easier though the more you do them.
I know it's late in the game, but for grins, here's my retro I did a few years ago. Still working great to this day: Another HID Bi-xenon Retrofit Install *PICS* - YotaTech Forums
rickashay
New member
Looking good so far! It's true, the first one is definitely harder than the rest!!
Did you figure out how to get the shroud on the projector properly? Looks like it... I usually use the centering rings from TRS. Makes it simple and sturdy.
Man, I can't wait to get my retro started for my new Runner.
Did you figure out how to get the shroud on the projector properly? Looks like it... I usually use the centering rings from TRS. Makes it simple and sturdy.
Man, I can't wait to get my retro started for my new Runner.
awpsome
New member
Don't sweat it man. Took me a week to do mines cause I took my time and had a whole bunch of other **** going on.
Make sure you measure and test fit on truck. That's where I messed up. One side is a little off center but I kind of grew onto it because of how wide of a spread of light output I get haha.
But yea the housing has just minor tuning of tilt so don't rely on it.
Also I didn't realize after wverythig. Looked good and jb welded, after putting the bulb in that hit my coolant. I never checked because without the bulb in it fit. Things like that make it difficult, I was lucky enough I could just relocate the reservoir else where
That was a close one cause if I couldn't Id have to take it all apart and do it again.
But yup good start and take your time!
Make sure you measure and test fit on truck. That's where I messed up. One side is a little off center but I kind of grew onto it because of how wide of a spread of light output I get haha.
But yea the housing has just minor tuning of tilt so don't rely on it.
Also I didn't realize after wverythig. Looked good and jb welded, after putting the bulb in that hit my coolant. I never checked because without the bulb in it fit. Things like that make it difficult, I was lucky enough I could just relocate the reservoir else where
That was a close one cause if I couldn't Id have to take it all apart and do it again.
But yup good start and take your time!
GottaBeTRD
New member
i appreciate you guys walking me through this, and your encouragement. Ive finally come to the conclusion that its not the end of the world if i mess up, its just gonna be a pain in the ass to find a new light haha
so i need your input. i ended up breaking one of the white adjusting screws when taking that damn black thing off lastnight. I stuck some locktite on the plastic bolt to hopefully put it back together in working condition, im gonna let it sit for a while. Is this a bad thing? please say no lol
ah! thats the thread i think i was looking for! i thought you had already posted in here but i couldn't find it. haha
Gosh i really hope i dont have to do another retrofit. at least now anyway,
no i havent really looked at that yet, im thinking on using that rvc silicone.
what are the centering rings? are they those 2 metal things that screw on to the back of the projector?
Gosh im glad you said something. i need to pick your brain a little, when you say test fit, does that mean i have to connect them back on the those black alligning things then put them back on before i put the glass back on?
it sound like you had some similar experiences. ive only broke that one thing and its sitting on some locktite right now.
so i need your input. i ended up breaking one of the white adjusting screws when taking that damn black thing off lastnight. I stuck some locktite on the plastic bolt to hopefully put it back together in working condition, im gonna let it sit for a while. Is this a bad thing? please say no lol
ah! thats the thread i think i was looking for! i thought you had already posted in here but i couldn't find it. haha
Gosh i really hope i dont have to do another retrofit. at least now anyway,
no i havent really looked at that yet, im thinking on using that rvc silicone.
what are the centering rings? are they those 2 metal things that screw on to the back of the projector?
Don't sweat it man. Took me a week to do mines cause I took my time and had a whole bunch of other **** going on.
Make sure you measure and test fit on truck. That's where I messed up. One side is a little off center but I kind of grew onto it because of how wide of a spread of light output I get haha.
But yea the housing has just minor tuning of tilt so don't rely on it.
Also I didn't realize after wverythig. Looked good and jb welded, after putting the bulb in that hit my coolant. I never checked because without the bulb in it fit. Things like that make it difficult, I was lucky enough I could just relocate the reservoir else where
That was a close one cause if I couldn't Id have to take it all apart and do it again.
But yup good start and take your time!
Gosh im glad you said something. i need to pick your brain a little, when you say test fit, does that mean i have to connect them back on the those black alligning things then put them back on before i put the glass back on?
it sound like you had some similar experiences. ive only broke that one thing and its sitting on some locktite right now.
GottaBeTRD
New member
i had one more question, my lights were already kind of effed up as far as alignment so i didn't tape anything walls s alligning these things going to be a PITA?
i see your link in your sig maybe i should look their first haha
i see your link in your sig maybe i should look their first haha
SQ.MD
New member
hey GBTRD, are you going to do a write up or take any pictures? I just finished removing the black housing yesterday on both lights (will seperate headlights today via oven) and I was just wondering if I should continue taking pictures (will not if you are already doing a write up) 
GottaBeTRD
New member
yeah ill start taking some more pics. i should have did a video on how to get the glass off cause that was really sketchy! but i just added my little pieces i have for my LED strips so ill post those here in a sec. along with some other stuff on how to take them off your truck etc
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GottaBeTRD
New member
so ill start from the beguninig. my orginal intensions were to do a write up so ill post some pics as i go.
first thing of course is to take the lights of your truck (easiest part)
to do this you need to take your grill off, and your corner lights
to take the corner lights off unscrew the one screw that is on top of the light and pull out from the front. it should pop right out.
now you have accesss to two of the bolts to your headlight
next thing is you have is 1 bolt on the grill side (nevermind that red mark in the corner)
then remove this lower bolt and pull off this trim piece. to do this just pull it out like if it was a little door.
after you pull this off you will see the last bolt you need to remove to remove the light
first thing of course is to take the lights of your truck (easiest part)
to do this you need to take your grill off, and your corner lights
to take the corner lights off unscrew the one screw that is on top of the light and pull out from the front. it should pop right out.
now you have accesss to two of the bolts to your headlight
next thing is you have is 1 bolt on the grill side (nevermind that red mark in the corner)
then remove this lower bolt and pull off this trim piece. to do this just pull it out like if it was a little door.
after you pull this off you will see the last bolt you need to remove to remove the light
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GottaBeTRD
New member
next to remove the black alignment thing you gotta unscrew the alignment bolts (the white plastic deals) But first remove the spring! as for the plactic bolts, i believe you unscrew them all the way and then you can get this clip out a lot easier
Be careful when unscewing the alighnment things. i did it evenly and actually counted the times i twiested it so i can hopefully have an easier time re-aligning my headlights. I did breal one of the bolts due to the pressure some how so hopefully this wont be bad news
to get the clip out all you need is some needle nose pliers or screw driver like mentioned eariler. just push in the tabs and push in so that the black alignment piece comes out.
take all the little plastic pieces off of the headlights, take the little metal clips that hold the class on of. )they just pop off with a flathead screwdirver)
now your ready to bake em! i put mine at 300 for 10 minutes.
take them out and scrape the border of the glass and housing all around with a metal utility knife. (YOU MOST LIKELY WONT BE ABLE TO PULL THE GLASS OFF AT THIS POINT) and your are most likely going to have to put the light in again (with the oven still at 300) for 3 minutes inervals. it took me 3 or 4 times of putting them in and taking them out until i could break the seal. once you do that break the seal all the way around and then you are ready to pry it gently with a srewdirver
ok now the fun stuff!
these are the pieces i made for my LED's
and thats where im at so far. Im letting those things dry and hopefully they stay
Be careful when unscewing the alighnment things. i did it evenly and actually counted the times i twiested it so i can hopefully have an easier time re-aligning my headlights. I did breal one of the bolts due to the pressure some how so hopefully this wont be bad news
to get the clip out all you need is some needle nose pliers or screw driver like mentioned eariler. just push in the tabs and push in so that the black alignment piece comes out.
take all the little plastic pieces off of the headlights, take the little metal clips that hold the class on of. )they just pop off with a flathead screwdirver)
now your ready to bake em! i put mine at 300 for 10 minutes.
take them out and scrape the border of the glass and housing all around with a metal utility knife. (YOU MOST LIKELY WONT BE ABLE TO PULL THE GLASS OFF AT THIS POINT) and your are most likely going to have to put the light in again (with the oven still at 300) for 3 minutes inervals. it took me 3 or 4 times of putting them in and taking them out until i could break the seal. once you do that break the seal all the way around and then you are ready to pry it gently with a srewdirver
ok now the fun stuff!
these are the pieces i made for my LED's
and thats where im at so far. Im letting those things dry and hopefully they stay
awpsome
New member
When I say test fit that means before you put glass or jb weld on the mounting screws for the projector attach it to your truck. Just like in the first couple photos above on how to take it off.
You sorta messed up just a little but now means you have o be a lot more careful. By breaking those tilt tweaking screws you'll have no adjustment for that wether it's height or left / right swivel.
So when you mount on your truck find a wall close to you on flat ground and go about 30 feet away an adjust the projector itself on it's mounting tabs to align it straigh horizontal and for the correct height.
Then make sure you mark exactly where you set it because taking it off and back home you might move it again. So it gets a little tricky there but since you don't have that swivel for one side and it's go loctite that is the one you have to be really careful with cause once you mount that's it.
But don't let this worry you, take your time it's a piece of cake.
It's a fun project and messing up it's really that bad.
My projectors are to low IMO but **** it they still work way better then stock.
And they look badass
If any more questions let me know.
You sorta messed up just a little but now means you have o be a lot more careful. By breaking those tilt tweaking screws you'll have no adjustment for that wether it's height or left / right swivel.
So when you mount on your truck find a wall close to you on flat ground and go about 30 feet away an adjust the projector itself on it's mounting tabs to align it straigh horizontal and for the correct height.
Then make sure you mark exactly where you set it because taking it off and back home you might move it again. So it gets a little tricky there but since you don't have that swivel for one side and it's go loctite that is the one you have to be really careful with cause once you mount that's it.
But don't let this worry you, take your time it's a piece of cake.
It's a fun project and messing up it's really that bad.
My projectors are to low IMO but **** it they still work way better then stock.
And they look badass
If any more questions let me know.
GottaBeTRD
New member
ah crap, i really hope i can still adjust it. it snapped right in half while taking that thing off. do you think its still managable? dahhhh! lol i am having fun with this here is an update
once you have the glass of take these little reflector things out (3 screws)
then your ready to put the projectors in
i used this write up for the D2s
How to: Mount Morimoto Mini D2S Bi-xenon projectors
there is a little hole on the side of the ligt insert that you can cut to fit the hi/lo wire through like this
How to: Mount Morimoto Mini D2S Bi-xenon projectors
now from that writeup above i have the bulb, and projector secure in to the housing
the shrouds were an akward fit, i had to use sylicone to get them to stay
SQMD im going to keep it chrome. i decided i like the stock look and im not sure what you were asking about the shrouds but maybe the pics answered your question?
once you have the glass of take these little reflector things out (3 screws)
then your ready to put the projectors in
i used this write up for the D2s
How to: Mount Morimoto Mini D2S Bi-xenon projectors
there is a little hole on the side of the ligt insert that you can cut to fit the hi/lo wire through like this
How to: Mount Morimoto Mini D2S Bi-xenon projectors
now from that writeup above i have the bulb, and projector secure in to the housing
the shrouds were an akward fit, i had to use sylicone to get them to stay
SQMD im going to keep it chrome. i decided i like the stock look and im not sure what you were asking about the shrouds but maybe the pics answered your question?
