Planning on repairing front-end damage myself but there are two roadblocks.

wtfemery

Member
So, since my mom crashed my car, she's going to pay for the repairs. So, I have the option of going to a shop to do the repairs where they'll charge about ~$1800, or take the same amount of cash from my mom and do it myself, and I'm considering the latter.

I took off the bumper to examine the damage more closely. The damage is primarily the front passenger side. The frame "end cap" on the passenger side is gone, and the front face of the frame is warped a bit. Also the, bear with me: front passenger body mount? is bent pretty bad. It's like a bracket that it welded to the frame, so I can't imagine me fixing that myself.

Also, the front fender mounting bracket is bent and twisted, and it bolts to the fender, but it's riveted to the frame. And the panel gap between the fender and door is slightly too big.

I am planning on buying and installing the following parts, though I could be missing something (* means not absolutely necessary, but nice to include):

Steel plate or tube/plate hybrid bumper - under $900
Wheelwell splash guard(s) - $30
*Skid plate - $300
*Grille - $80
*Filler panels (under headlights) - $50
Bed-liner type paint for bumper/Filler panels - $40
Misc bolts - $20
Fender mount bracket thing - (can't find anywhere)

Total: sub $1500 Plus shop frame repair

The PROBLEM, though, is that I don't know what to do about the bent welded/riveted parts I mentioned (photos below). Will a body shop ONLY fix those things and nothing else and charge a reasonable price? Where do I start?

PHOTOS:

body mount/frame cap:
0TpfwN4.jpg

wav4b1h.jpg




Fender bracket (I pulled it back out of the way of the tire):
oZBvP29.jpg




Panel Gap:
ZWI86zy.jpg
 
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If I were you, I would be more worried about the frame than the fender. It is difficult to be certain that the impact didn't bend the frame in other locations if it bent the front horn and end cap...

Was the bodyshop estimate including the frame and body mount? If so, that seems like a bargain compared to the DIY plan.
 
You might be able to get that body mount back into shape with heat and a hammer. At least close enough for or a 'trail rig'. Obviously get the rubber portion of the mount out of the way before applying heat...

With the amount of rust you have on there, I'd worry about the longevity of the truck (well, frame) unless you really start getting on that problem too.

-Charlie
 
I had a front end crash and I also had to replace everything, which I did myself, I got all used junk yard parts.. ran me about $500.

If the alignment is okay - I wouldn't stress too much about the frame. It would be very obvious if it is driving crooked.

Rust? LOL - the runner has no rust, not mint obvi, maybe some discoloration... spray it with vegetable oil or your favorite oil and enjoy it until the wheels fall off.
:thumb:
 
I would buy a new frame bracket cut it off and weld it on. Or you could even cut the bracket and weld a new unbent piece on.

I would just replace the entire frame bracket.


As for the rust, it's not bad yet. [ At least in that section anyway] I would start coating with rust inhibiting solutions to slow it down.

Amazing how folks that don't live in the rust belt classify rusty chassis. I can show you rusty and rotted chassis. :D

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If you’re close to ENC; I’ve got a 96 frame. (Not sure what year yours is.)

If interested; send me a PM and I can snap pics of the frame.


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Yeah, I don’t live anywhere near the rust belt, it’s just minor surface rust to my eye.

As cool and rewarding as it would be to learn to weld, I’m not sure I should start with a chunk of my frame... Although it would be cool to be able to do my own weld-together bumper too, I just don’t really have a workshop to do it in.

First I’ll bang on it with a torch and a hammer, maybe it’ll straighten out a bit. after all, what more damage could I do to that piece?

The steering wheel is slightly off-center, but the handling still behaves normally, and it still tracks perfectly straight (I can let go of the wheel on the freeway and stay in my lane) and it doesn’t act weird under light or heavy braking either.

So my hopes are high that something just got bumped a bit out of alignment. There is always the possibility of a bent frame, but I think the probability is pretty low.

The two quotes I got from the body shops included 2 and 4hrs of “frame” work. Mainly for the body mount i’m assuming.

Are there measurements I can use to check if there’s obvious bends in the frame, or does that take special tools?

If I use a steel bumper on the frame rails, It’s not crucial that the cab mount is perfect I think. However, Since that’s where the stock bumper mounts, If I go that route then it needs to be perfectly where it should be. So there’s a trade off...
 
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That's how I started welding. I just starting working on frames. The only way to learn is to practice.

I would take it in for a alignment too. As if it aligns well. Most likely the frame isnt bent.

As bent as that bracket is. I would just cut it off and replace it. But that's me. You can sorta get it back into place by heating and beating it back into place. Just keep in mind that it will not be as structurally as strong unless the bracket is replaced. That's entirely up to you. I just offer opinions.
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As for the rust, it's not bad yet. [ At least in that section anyway] I would start coating with rust inhibiting solutions to slow it down.

Amazing how folks that don't live in the rust belt classify rusty chassis. I can show you rusty and rotted chassis. :D
Hey, I'm not saying that there are structural issues there - just that the rest of the frame should be inspected and that the rust issues should be treated.

Then again, this is what I'm used to seeing on my frame:

DGmcLf1.jpg


There are a few nicked spots of paint, but that's it for rust...

-Charlie
 
I know Charlie. It's ok. It's just the environment your in . Just like .. complete rot is extremely common here..:)

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