POS TOY, my $800 '98 SR5

[t4r3noob]

Curious how hard it was to get the crank bolt off? My brother had to make some special tool and use a 6 foot breaker bar to get mine off. When he re-installed the bolt, he cranked it down good but no where near 200+ ft/lbs. He said it was totally unnecessary since the crank is keyed anyways.

Quite often, the starter has enough torque & mechanical advantage to break these loose. Just wedge your breaker-bar somewhere safe on the frame, hop in the driver's seat, and bump the key for about a quarter-second. (Make sure you are in neutral or park first!!!)

While I'm glad it has worked for you so far, I object to claiming that the stated torque isn't necessary. There have been instances of the balancers working loose, and then shearing the key off.

 

[thegipper]

Quite often, the starter has enough torque & mechanical advantage to break these loose. Just wedge your breaker-bar somewhere safe on the frame, hop in the driver's seat, and bump the key for about a quarter-second. (Make sure you are in neutral or park first!!!)

While I'm glad it has worked for you so far, I object to claiming that the stated torque isn't necessary. There have been instances of the balancers working loose, and then shearing the key off.

Thanks for the information. The more I read into this, the more I agree with you. I did not know they key barely goes into the pulley and can shear off if its not torqued properly.

So my question now is, can I just put my beefy torque wrench on it and tighten it down the correct 217 ft/lbs or do I need to something else first?

Thanks

 

[t4r3noob]

can I just put my beefy torque wrench on it and tighten it down the correct 217 ft/lbs or do I need to something else first?

Possibly, but I don't know for sure. The reason I waffle is: that bolt is torque-to-yield, which means that the 217 lbf·ft is intended to stretch the bolt past its point of being able to spring back to its original size. (This is why you are supposed to replace it with a new one every time.)

So, if your brother did not use a new bolt, then I would say: no, go buy a new one, and torque it down properly (and don't use locktite. Also don't lubricate the bolt, as that can cause it to stretch too much, and break off in your crankshaft. Torque from your wrench is matched by a combination of thread friction & bolt stretch, and if you reduce the friction you increase the stretch.)

If he did use a new bolt, then I guess I would be concerned about how close he got to the 217 lbf·ft, and if the lock-tite he used initially had any lubricating properties while still wet. ... Maybe progressively set your torque wrench to higher and higher settings until you start to feel/see movement. If he was far away, then you are maybe OK to just tighten further. However, in no case should you bounce on your torque wrench! Slow, even application of torque is what you want.

EDIT: actually since he used lock-tite, I would be inclined to recommend that you just get a new bolt.

EDIT #2: I got confused between you and OP. I guess OP was the one who mentioned lock-tite.

If you want a more professional opinion, try asking at mechanics.stackexchange.com

 

[TP Superstar]

Powder coating really makes your engine bay look nice.
Excellent job, I am subscribing for updates. Thank you for keeping your progress posted. Seeing your efforts is the best motivation for getting out to my garage and getting some work done on my Runner.

Thanks again!

 

[thegipper]

Possibly, but I don't know for sure. The reason I waffle is: that bolt is torque-to-yield, which means that the 217 lbf·ft is intended to stretch the bolt past its point of being able to spring back to its original size. (This is why you are supposed to replace it with a new one every time.)

So, if your brother did not use a new bolt, then I would say: no, go buy a new one, and torque it down properly (and don't use locktite. Also don't lubricate the bolt, as that can cause it to stretch too much, and break off in your crankshaft. Torque from your wrench is matched by a combination of thread friction & bolt stretch, and if you reduce the friction you increase the stretch.)

If he did use a new bolt, then I guess I would be concerned about how close he got to the 217 lbf·ft, and if the lock-tite he used initially had any lubricating properties while still wet. ... Maybe progressively set your torque wrench to higher and higher settings until you start to feel/see movement. If he was far away, then you are maybe OK to just tighten further. However, in no case should you bounce on your torque wrench! Slow, even application of torque is what you want.

EDIT: actually since he used lock-tite, I would be inclined to recommend that you just get a new bolt.

EDIT #2: I got confused between you and OP. I guess OP was the one who mentioned lock-tite.

If you want a more professional opinion, try asking at mechanics.stackexchange.com

I just talked with my bro about what he did. He did not use locktite on the bolt but he did re-use the bolt.

They only had a torque wrench that went to 150 ft/lbs. They torqued it to the 150 then put a breaker bar on the bolt with a piece of pipe and tightened it down even more. It's possible its near spec, slightly under or over. Only way to know is to use the correct torque wrench on it.

What will I need to remove to be able to get the pulley holder on and check the torque on the bolt?

Update: After looking at it, I think I should just need to remove the fan (4 nuts) and I should have enough access to it. Getting the two bolts in through the pulley holder will probably be the hardest part. I think I have the bolts that my brother used laying around too, he said they should thread in just fine. If I cannot find them, can I just stick a bolt in that is small enough to get through the holes or does it have to thread in?

 

[t4r3noob]

I just talked with my bro about what he did. He did not use locktite on the bolt but he did re-use the bolt.

Fortunately, the replacement bolts are only a few dollars @ a dealership.

What will I need to remove to be able to get the pulley holder on and check the torque on the bolt? [...] Update: After looking at it, I think I should just need to remove the fan (4 nuts) and I should have enough access to it.

This is a 5VZ, right? I would suggest also removing the fan shroud.

To check the torque, you need a torque wrench that goes to 250 lbf-ft. (You also need to trust its calibration. The last thing you want to do is snap this beefy bolt off in your crankshaft.) You'll also want a long cheater pipe that can fit over all of the torque wrench's handle. Maybe wrap the wrench handle w/ a cloth before using the pipe, to keep from scratching the wrench, if you borrowed it.

Getting the two bolts in through the pulley holder will probably be the hardest part. I think I have the bolts that my brother used laying around too, he said they should thread in just fine. If I cannot find them, can I just stick a bolt in that is small enough to get through the holes or does it have to thread in?

Three things:

1. For getting pulley off: Yes they need to thread in. But, you might get lucky, since your balancer has been off recently. You might find that you can pull it off by hand, once the bolt is out.

I borrowed a pulley-puller from Autozone. I think it didn't have the right bolts for my particular pulley, but I found some at Home Depot that were long enough & had the correct threads. It was trial-and-error, so I brought along the closest match from the puller kit, and used it to select several candidates to buy.

2. For holding the pulley still while loosening the old bolt: no, they wouldn't need to thread, but it would be best if they did. (Because of flex.) But don't forget about the starter-bump method: it worked for me the first time, on my 5VZ engine. Scotty Kilmer has a demonstration of it on YT (see link below.)

3. For holding the pulley while tightening the new bolt: I did have problems with my pulley-holder not staying in place while trying to hit the final torque. I solved this by having a buddy lay on his back and press the toe of his shoe (while on his foot, duh ound onto the installed holder, so that it couldn't flex out while I steadily pulled on the wrench from above.

Finally, to OP: I am truly sorry for taking over your awesome thread. I probably should have moved this to PMs. hwell:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7G-adEVjfWI

 

[thegipper]

I got a big enough torque wrench and checked the bolt. My bro had it at about 180 ft/lbs. I torqued it down more until I hit 217.

Hardest part was threading the bolts in through the tool and into the pulley. Oh and the stupid alternator belt partially came off because I took the fan off. I forgot how to loosen up the alternator but after 30 minutes or so, I got the belt back on. There was no issues before but now I can sleep good at night knowing it's torqued to spec.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

 

[thegipper]

I'll put a new bolt on it when I do the timing belt in the near future. I can't remember why my bro had it off in the first place but he didn't replace the belt.......#FACEPALM

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

 

[jstim]

If you're ever trying to get the smell out, you can always use the hunting ozone devices. It gets out even smoke...I have a whitetail'r I think. Plug it in, button the truck up and let it run for a day or two, the longer the better, but it will get all the smells out.

 

[Hepar]

Love seeing people with the drive and skills to keep these rigs out of the scrapyard. Kuddos!

 

[sdwaltz]

Coolest thread I've seen in my short time on these forums, OP. I am wildly envious of your skills and majorly look forward to following your journey of bringing this thing back to life! Kudos, good sir. Kudos.

 

[eatpasta]

I finally got my timing belt jobber pretty much done. I just need to swing by work tomorrow and check out a monster torque wrench to get the crank bolt to 217ft-lbs. Then install the fan and fan shroud, throttle body (which is now black), tighten belts, and reinstall the intake. I might do the ISR mod tomorrow, since I have all the stuff apart.

Once that's done, I will reinstall my newly blacked-out grille, and find something else worthwhile to do while I have the day off.

Here's some pics of my engine, freshened up, but not quite done.

It's a Toyota Testarossa!!



LOVE that wrinkle coat!!

 

[99Runnr]

Looks great. I am also taking on a similar build which is snowballing quickly.

You will have a nice 4runner.

 

[OneOffStroker]

If you're ever trying to get the smell out, you can always use the hunting ozone devices. It gets out even smoke...I have a whitetail'r I think. Plug it in, button the truck up and let it run for a day or two, the longer the better, but it will get all the smells out.

Thanks for the tip! I'll have to get one, because I 'rescue' junky vehicles all the time. I might get a 2008 FJ this weekend that might need this done to it.

Love seeing people with the drive and skills to keep these rigs out of the scrapyard. Kuddos!

Thanks!

Coolest thread I've seen in my short time on these forums, OP. I am wildly envious of your skills and majorly look forward to following your journey of bringing this thing back to life! Kudos, good sir. Kudos.

Thank you, sir! That is the nicest thing I've heard on a forum in a long time.

Looks great. I am also taking on a similar build which is snowballing quickly.

You will have a nice 4runner.

Thank you. I hope your build goes as good as mine, maybe even better!

 

[99Runnr]

Nah won't be nicer, I am not powdercoating as much as you. That really looks nice. I haven't even driven mine yet, heard it run for 5 minutes off a push start and my friend drove it onto my trailer. Now it's getting completely build in the garage and I'll hope it runs and drives when I'm done. This is my second 3rd gen build so I have all the essentials going in along the way too.

Best of luck man, don't let the snowball effect hit you too hard. It did for me undoubtedly. Haha

 

[OneOffStroker]

So much WTF

Wow guys and gals, just wow. Tonight I pulled the axles to do new seals and bearings, and what I found surprised me, even though I should have expected it all. The guy that I bought it from said that it failed state inspection because the right side was leaking so bad a that the brakes were saturated, yada yada. He said that he had it repaired, but it immediately started leaking again. I figured it was some poor workmanship, and I was sooooooo right.

The repair guy used the freaking OUTER DUST BOOTS for inner axle seals, and it still had the old inner seals in the axle tube!!!!


This job has been done a few times, and done poorly each time. The spacers have been cut off at one point, and they cut into the axles a bit when doing so. Also, I don't even know what the heck they drove the spacers back on with, because this much damage is just so hard to explain. Air hammer, maybe?



The backing plates have a lot of play in them, making me believe that the wheel bearings themselves are shot. I can believe it, because the previous repairs clearly involved a chisel and BFH to remove the backing plates, instead of a service tool and press.


Because of this hack job, I knew I'd need new spacers. I had planned on reusing them because I"m not a hack, and I can remove things without total destruction. Long story short, I'm NOT reusing these. I figured I'd be ordering them and completing this job sometime next weekend. I was a little bummed. Then for some reason, I opened the package with the new wheel bearings that I ordered and whadda ya know?!?! It freaking comes with new spacers! That kinda made my day.



I was given a set of OME 890s and I figured that While I have the rear end this far down, I'd replace the springs. Well, I only got one side in because I need a compressor, but that's not the good part. The passenger spring is missing the pigtail part (might even be a spring from some other kind of truck) and the driver's spring was straight up broken. Look at the Gangster Lean on that spring!!


Next to the 890


Anyway, I didn't get the truck put back together tonight. Tomorrow should be a good day. Heck, I might even pick up a 2008 FJ with the Offroad package...

 

[OneOffStroker]

So I didn't get my axle seals done. I decided that if I have to make a service tool to get the backing plates off, I'm going to make a badass one. So tomorrow or Tuesday, I'm going to cut some flanges on the water jet at work to weld to a piece of pipe and make a legit bearing/backing plate tool. Hell, I might even powder coat it. lol

But I DID get the rear lift finished and I also got my front end done! I installed Tundra Bilstein 5100s with new KYB mounts and some AC Delco replacement springs for an FJ Cruiser on the 2nd notch. I didn't measure yet, but it lifted this tired 'ol truck a bit. I'd say it looks good, but since it's still sitting on nasty stock wheels with worn out, mismatched tires, it looks a bit dopey. So to fix it, I ordered my new Falkens last night as well. 265/70-17 should help fill up the wheel wells just a bit.

I also installed new LBJs today. Here's the post that gets me banned though, because I didn't use OEM parts. Oh, the horror! lol (I didn't use dealer-approved OEM gas last fill-up either.)

 

[Beaumont67]

I didn't get much done today. I attended the memorial service for Ryan Owens, the SEAL who was killed overseas about two weeks ago. He truly was a giant amongst men, a great American, and a warrior to the end. I will never be even 1/100th of the man he was. :angel:

After the feels began to subside, I made my way outside and finally got the truck topped off with fresh gas, then proceeded to completely strip the rest of the interior, including the headliner. I will try to shampoo it or something to get the cigarette smell out, but there is only so much that can be done. I'm going to order carpet this weekend so that I can start putting the interior back together and call it done in there for a while.
Engine...Check.
Interior...Almost.
Suspension...Still a nightmare.

I need some sleep. Tomorrow is a new day.

Atmosklear Odor Eliminator
https://www.amazon.com/Mary-Ellen-Products-Atmosklear-Eliminator/dp/B00BSPUJGQ

^^ This stuff is amazing.
I used it in 2 basements, that had sewer backup on concrete & carpet...smell was totally gone.
If I'm selling a vehicle with cig. smoke, it takes out all the smell odors.
Auto detailers use it on carpets, to refresh flood water damage.
Others find it useful, to remove cat urine smells...etc.

O-O-S - great thread and $800 mechanical basket case...I enjoy following your workmanship.
The low budget build, reminds me of the value of using a hands on approach.
- 40 years ago, I bought a Datsun b210 off my future BIL for $50
- mechanically sound, but badly rusted & was headed to the wreckers
- I towed it 100 miles on a tow bar, to family farm
- parked it in the implement garage, for 6 months of weekend body work
- brazed on 34 sheet metal panels (19g), hand formed on the edge of a free rail road track (2 foot'er)
- bought a BF604 Snap-On body hammer (in grade12, still my favorite tool) and a few ViceGrip "C" clamps
- once all bondo was smooth, wet garage floor & sprayed whole car in Enamel
- Datson passed safety check and freshly painted car was driven for 3 years, while in College
- only repair in 3 years, was a $350 one piece drive shaft...universal joints not changeable
- after graduating, I sold the $50 b210 for $500
There is lot of self gratification, in your project & overall it will represent a free ride (someday).

Also impressed with your powder coating skills - love to see a photo of your equipment, setup & general costs involved...if possible / Thks.
Cheers, Larry

 

[eatpasta]

 

[OneOffStroker]

Also impressed with your powder coating skills - love to see a photo of your equipment, setup & general costs involved...if possible / Thks.
Cheers, Larry

Beaumont67, I'lll take some pics of the coating stuff this weekend because I'm doing several sets of motorcycle wheels. I'll try to explain what I have when I post the pics.