Possible Bad Bearing In 2nd Gen TRD Supercharger

[MTD]

So I posted In the 3.4 supercharger thread and didn't get a response. I want to know what a normal noise for the 2nd gen TRD supercharger for the 3.4 is? I know you get the typical whine at higher RPM's but I have noticed a chatter/beating/rumble/vibration (best way I can describe it is a mix of all those) sound at lower RPM's, 1k-3k, before it starts to make boost. I only notice it when I am accelerating and at lower RPMs and I can't hear it a cruising speed. Any help on this would be appreciated. :bored:

 

[Brique]

I can't help you other than to give you a free bump.

 

[VolcanoT4R]

I can't help either, but for those with more mechanical aptitude than me, a video would likely be very helpful. Good luck figuring out your issue.

 

[MTD]

I can't help you other than to give you a free bump.

I can't help either, but for those with more mechanical aptitude than me, a video would likely be very helpful. Good luck figuring out your issue.

Thanks guys, but I think I have a pretty good lead on the issue now, I think the drive adapter (plastic piece inside the charger) may be getting old, so I will be replacing that and changing the oil at the same time.

TRD Oil Change Kit 3.4L V6 supercharger (black) PTR29-35043

 

[nor_cal51501]

Easiest way to tell if it's the phenolic adapter is to take the belt off the pulley and rotate the nose drive back and forth. If you hear it clunk or feel slop instead of it being like a direct drive with precision then yes, it's more than likely that.

 

[SCRunner12]

Like others have said a video is best. I have a rattle at idle, but it goes away as soon I as apply the gas. It's the loudest at 700-1k when idling, but quiets down with more gas. That is typical for superchargers, but I bet your adapter might need to be replaced. I'm sure your bearings in the nose cone could use a replacing as well if you wanted to pick up a new nose cone (or replace them yourself since they are about $20.).

 

[MTD]

Easiest way to tell if it's the phenolic adapter is to take the belt off the pulley and rotate the nose drive back and forth. If you hear it clunk or feel slop instead of it being like a direct drive with precision then yes, it's more than likely that.

I did that yesterday and It had about a 1/16-1/32 of play in it so I will be doing this.

Like others have said a video is best. I have a rattle at idle, but it goes away as soon I as apply the gas. It's the loudest at 700-1k when idling, but quiets down with more gas. That is typical for superchargers, but I bet your adapter might need to be replaced. I'm sure your bearings in the nose cone could use a replacing as well if you wanted to pick up a new nose cone (or replace them yourself since they are about $20.).

You sure I should replace the bearings? the most possible miles there could be on the charger is 82000 and the truck was driven by an 80 year old man for its whole life. I still am not positive either if it was on there since 2000 when it was new either. Is there any good way to tell if the bearings are going bad with out pulling the supercharger?

Also I see all of my noise in the 1-3k range. I'll take a video when I get home tonight.

 

[SCRunner12]

You sure I should replace the bearings? the most possible miles there could be on the charger is 82000 and the truck was driven by an 80 year old man for its whole life. I still am not positive either if it was on there since 2000 when it was new either. Is there any good way to tell if the bearings are going bad with out pulling the supercharger?

Also I see all of my noise in the 1-3k range. I'll take a video when I get home tonight.

You can try replacing just the adapter and see if it helps out. Also double check the oil level. They get louder if there isn't much oil. TRD suggest rebuilds around 100k, but that also depends on the oil change interval. I'd say with 82k it's getting close. Most of the time you don't have to replace all of the bearings (always better to, but not absolutely necessary in most cases). I would probably replace the nose cone bearings if the adapter doesn't help, but with the noise at those RPM intervals I'm worried it's not the adapter. It should quiet down and lose the rattle with higher RPM's.

I'm not sure of a really pinpoint way to tell if the bearings need replacing other than by noise. You can pull it apart and see if the rotors have been making contact with each other (doubtful) or the housing. That is a clear indication of the bearings going bad. The front bearings are pretty simple to replace from what I've seen. Just press them out/press them in and will run you about $80 in parts for a new seal, adapter, two bearings, gasket maker and oil.

A video will really help as we can pinpoint the noise and RPM intervals better. I'm hoping for the best for you.

 

[nor_cal51501]

I did that yesterday and It had about a 1/16-1/32 of play in it so I will be doing this.




You sure I should replace the bearings? the most possible miles there could be on the charger is 82000 and the truck was driven by an 80 year old man for its whole life. I still am not positive either if it was on there since 2000 when it was new either. Is there any good way to tell if the bearings are going bad with out pulling the supercharger?

Also I see all of my noise in the 1-3k range. I'll take a video when I get home tonight.

Easiest way to tell if your bearings are going out is to look for any oil seepage in the nose cone. If you're clean and dry then you're more than likely ok with the bearings. I believe if I remember correctly, the nose cones are a service interval of 90k miles, so you could be ready for a nose cone. Likelihood, probably not because these things go for much longer. My supercharger has something like 120k or less miles and I've just begun to get the tiniest bit of moisture. I probably won't do my nose cone for at least a year if it stays how it is.

 

[MTD]

Okay here is a link to a video it's not very good though because my phone apparently picks up every noise except for the one that you wanna hear. I will use my GoPro when I get home and that picks up a lot less and will pick up the the engine noise


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f3HwvWHBLOU&feature=youtube_gdata_player

 

[NateMob]

Would it be easier to hear and pinpoint the sound if you shot the video from the engine compartment? You could still manipulate the throttle by hand to vary the RPMs.

I couldn't make out any specific sounds in the current video besides the sweet whine of a SC.

 

[SCRunner12]

Yeah I couldn't hear anything. A video from the engine bay will be much more clear. Here is my SC when I first installed it. It needs a new adapter for sure and I'll be replacing the bearings as well.

 

[MTD]

Would it be easier to hear and pinpoint the sound if you shot the video from the engine compartment? You could still manipulate the throttle by hand to vary the RPMs.

I couldn't make out any specific sounds in the current video besides the sweet whine of a SC.

Haha it does sound kinda soothing dosent it

I would shoot a vid from the engine bay, but It will only make the sound under load for some reason. If I crank the throttle by hand I get nothing but that wondrous whine lol.

 

[MTD]

Easiest way to tell if your bearings are going out is to look for any oil seepage in the nose cone. If you're clean and dry then you're more than likely ok with the bearings. I believe if I remember correctly, the nose cones are a service interval of 90k miles, so you could be ready for a nose cone. Likelihood, probably not because these things go for much longer. My supercharger has something like 120k or less miles and I've just begun to get the tiniest bit of moisture. I probably won't do my nose cone for at least a year if it stays how it is.

I just found out that is dry allright! Only cause all the gear lube is caked in dust.. I think it may be the nose cone lol.

I want to check to make sure that there is at least a little gear lube left in this thing, is this alan head bolt the fill port?

 

[SCRunner12]

Yeah it's an allen key that is needed to remove the fill plug. Get a small syringe and some tubing and take the oil out if you can. That way you can see how much is in there. Should be around 4 oz I believe.

 

[MTD]

Yeah it's an allen key that is needed to remove the fill plug. Get a small syringe and some tubing and take the oil out if you can. That way you can see how much is in there. Should be around 4 oz I believe.

I drove back up to Madison tonight and the noise had got increasingly worse. I need to know what part numbers I need to order so I can rebuild this thing so I can drive my truck again. I will be driving my grandfather's truck for now but want to get mine on the road as soon as possible. Is anybody have the part numbers for the rear bearings and any other parts that I may need. I know what the nose cone kit part number is but would like to know the rest as well.

 

[MTD]

I have been doing some reading and haven't been able to find any information on the middle bearings and the rear bearings in the supercharger? Does anybody know if I can change the forward variance or does it not matter and should i just change the nose cone?

 

[SCRunner12]

So you can go a couple of routes. First you can just get the replacement nose cone and replace that. It might solve your problem and requires the least amount of work but is expensive.

Second, buy the nose cone rebuild parts and rear bearings from rollingperformance.com. They have the front kits for $75 Rolling Performance Home. Rear bearings for $20 Rolling Performance Home. Coupler for $30 Rolling Performance.

That covers the front and rear bearings but leaves the rotor pack bearings and seals. I believe the rear bearings are Nachi 6203 C3 open x2 http://www.vxb.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=Kit9835&Store_Code=bearings and can be bout at vxb.com. The seals are from Jon Bond Performance and $65 https://jonbondperformance.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=285.

That is pretty much it. You'll need oil that you can get from amazon or rolling perfomance.

Here is a good thread with info on the rebuild. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...-top-eaton-m62-complete-rebuild-write-up.html

 

[xcmtb83]

Have you verifed the supercharger wasn't used which would mean it would have potentially more than stated miles on it?

Have you verified that it is even the supercharger making noise?

Get a stethoscope or even put a long screw driver to your ear and check all accessory pulley bearings while running if possible. It could be your timing belt ider, timing belt tensioner pulley, water pump or fan bracket bearing. Those are all things I would check before stressing out about rebuilding the charger.

 

[MTD]

Have you verifed the supercharger wasn't used which would mean it would have potentially more than stated miles on it?

Have you verified that it is even the supercharger making noise?

Get a stethoscope or even put a long screw driver to your ear and check all accessory pulley bearings while running if possible. It could be your timing belt ider, timing belt tensioner pulley, water pump or fan bracket bearing. Those are all things I would check before stressing out about rebuilding the charger.

I have had every one of those others go bad on me in the past and know what they sound like so I know that its the supercharger. I did also confirm it was new when it went on.