05 SR5 with 121k. One day the red oil light came on. Checked the oil and it was full. No oil leaks too. It stayed on. Drove it few more miles until I started to hear the lifters, something similar to oil starvation. Drove it home. next day talked to a mechanic. He said to add Marvel mystery oil. Did that and left it running for 2 1/2 hours. Oil light never did come on while parked. It used to before at all times. Drove it for 1/2 a mile, the oil light started flickering on and off. It especially came on upon hard throttle. No engine knock or lifter noise when parked or while driving. But the noise goes up if I keep driving it. So I took it back home after a short drive. Not sure how long it takes for marvel oil to work if it turned out to be clogged oil pores. There is also a high pitch whining noise on start up. Lasts for 7-8 minutes. Not the power steering for sure. I heard oil pumps could do that. Oil is clean. Any suggestions on what is the next step? Drop the oil and fill with 10w-30 for a change? and add another mystery oil bottle? Temperatures here are around 60 degrees or so. I want to try to save the motor before something happens. I was thinking about measuring the oil pressure via buying a tool. But I can't see where the oil sending unit/switch is. Is it next to the oil filter? Also, is it possible the oil filter is clogged up? Thanks
possible oil pump?
- Thread starter dcnaz
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
Sweet Jesus....all they did was add mystery oil? Seriously? That light is a dummy oil pressure indicator. Instead of a dial that most people couldn't read, they installed (Toyota) that is dead simple: when oil pressure falls below bare minimum, it goes off.
Your killing your engine. Whether it is do to sludge blocking the oil pathways and pickup (starving engine) or the pump itself...who knows.
All mystery oil is is a gimmick. It changed the viscosity of the oil to make it easier on the pump. Bad. It isn't designed to lubricat like actual oil.
End of story: either you have sludge or a dying pump. Could be both. The sludge has been straining the pump long enough to kill it.
If you want to save the truck, stop driving immediately and pull pump,drop the oil pan and inspect for sludge on the lower end.
Your killing your engine. Whether it is do to sludge blocking the oil pathways and pickup (starving engine) or the pump itself...who knows.
All mystery oil is is a gimmick. It changed the viscosity of the oil to make it easier on the pump. Bad. It isn't designed to lubricat like actual oil.
End of story: either you have sludge or a dying pump. Could be both. The sludge has been straining the pump long enough to kill it.
If you want to save the truck, stop driving immediately and pull pump,drop the oil pan and inspect for sludge on the lower end.
There are some things you can take a chance on, but oil is not one of them. If the light is on, you shouldn't drive it until you find out why. It could be nothing, but the risk is way to high to take a chance. Your engine is made of metal, not skin. It is either lubricating or it is burning up. Not a lot of in between.
Thank you guys for the great information. I used to work on cars a while back, so I am mechanically inclined. I am sure there is time to save it as there is no knocking or funny noises, yet. Pulling the oil pan shouldn't be a problem. Is replacing the oil pump on these 4.0 motors a pita? Could there be "gelation" or sludge even though the motor oil is clean?
BlackWorksInc
New member
The oil pressure switch is to the left of the oil filter on the 1GR-FE.
At idle: 29 kPa (0.3 kgf⋅cm2, 4.2 psi) or more
At 3,000 rpm: 294 − 588 kPa (3.0 − 6.0 kgf⋅cm2, 43 − 85 psi)
At idle: 29 kPa (0.3 kgf⋅cm2, 4.2 psi) or more
At 3,000 rpm: 294 − 588 kPa (3.0 − 6.0 kgf⋅cm2, 43 − 85 psi)
earthrealm
Senior Member
Could be sludge in the engine.drop the pan n check...if sludge d...I think a good engine flush added to the oil wil do the trick.
Mixed reviews on engine flushes though
Mixed reviews on engine flushes though
Don't do a flush. It is as bad for the oil system as it is for the transmission. The reality is, once you get to the level of sludge buildup that it has destroyed your oil pump you either a. leave it be, use oil to prevent further build up and hope it doesn't break off or b. strip it down and clean the engine engine.
Flushing is just as bad in the engine as the trans for the same reason. I killed a 3.0 following someones suggestion to flush. Killed it.
You should drop the pan and look for buildup. Odd though, these engines are not known for this. You drive 20k on an oil change?
I would def. replace your oil pump as well.
Flushing is just as bad in the engine as the trans for the same reason. I killed a 3.0 following someones suggestion to flush. Killed it.
You should drop the pan and look for buildup. Odd though, these engines are not known for this. You drive 20k on an oil change?
I would def. replace your oil pump as well.
earthrealm
Senior Member
see the product am talking about here...has very good reviews on amazon.
•Frees up sludge associated with slow city driving
•Removes accumulated gums, varnishes, and sludge from internal engine parts
•Releases sticky valves and piston rings, allowing oil to circulate freely to all parts of the motor
Gunk MF3 High Mileage Motor Flush - 32 fl. oz. : Amazon.com : Automotive
•Frees up sludge associated with slow city driving
•Removes accumulated gums, varnishes, and sludge from internal engine parts
•Releases sticky valves and piston rings, allowing oil to circulate freely to all parts of the motor
Gunk MF3 High Mileage Motor Flush - 32 fl. oz. : Amazon.com : Automotive
gm350reratliff
New member
Get an oil pressure gauge to test actual oil pressure before dropping the pan. I'm betting you have a finicky oil pressure sending unit. And stay away from those gimick oil additives.
update
The oil light stopped coming on completely! There is no lifters noise or any noise when driving. The only thing left is this whining noise when in park and applying throttle. Sounds like a turbo. When driving low speeds it does the same thing. i WOULD HAVE THOUGHT IT HAS TO DO WITH THE DRIVETRAIN BUT IT DOES IT WHILE PARKED. TOOK OFF ALL BELTS, STILL DOING IT. ALL PULLEYS SOUND GOOD. ANY IDEAS?
The oil light stopped coming on completely! There is no lifters noise or any noise when driving. The only thing left is this whining noise when in park and applying throttle. Sounds like a turbo. When driving low speeds it does the same thing. i WOULD HAVE THOUGHT IT HAS TO DO WITH THE DRIVETRAIN BUT IT DOES IT WHILE PARKED. TOOK OFF ALL BELTS, STILL DOING IT. ALL PULLEYS SOUND GOOD. ANY IDEAS?
03_4x4Runner
Senior Member
I know the V8 does not use hydraulic lifters and I am pretty sure the V6 does not either. The valve clearance is set with shims so you would never hear hydraulic lifters ticking.
Welp, sports fans, I think it is your oil pump. The whirring noise can be an indicator that the bearings are going. The oil pump is powered off the timing belt, so you wouldn't be able to remove belt for it unless you pulled the timing belt...
I believe the light went off because for the time being the pump is able to get sufficient pressure; but I still believe you have an issue. If that pump goes while on the freeway, you will likely toast the engine.
Have you actually pulled the pan or at least checked what the oil pressure is?
I believe the light went off because for the time being the pump is able to get sufficient pressure; but I still believe you have an issue. If that pump goes while on the freeway, you will likely toast the engine.
Have you actually pulled the pan or at least checked what the oil pressure is?
If it is the pump (which unfortunately I think it is)...and you're hearing engine noise...there already is engine damage. How much...that's difficult to say.
I would NOT drive this until you get it fixed. Doesn't sound like the pump has failed...just that it's not doing a good job. It could also be the pump is clogged.
First thing I'd do is drop the pan and look at the oil pickup screen. If it's really clogged then remove it and clean it in a solvent (plain old gas works). If it's not too clogged or not clogged at all then you'll have to replace the pump (although it might be worth replacing it anyways). I'm not too sure of the setup of this engine. So this may or may not be a difficult job. But it's going to be very labor intensive job.
I would NOT drive this until you get it fixed. Doesn't sound like the pump has failed...just that it's not doing a good job. It could also be the pump is clogged.
First thing I'd do is drop the pan and look at the oil pickup screen. If it's really clogged then remove it and clean it in a solvent (plain old gas works). If it's not too clogged or not clogged at all then you'll have to replace the pump (although it might be worth replacing it anyways). I'm not too sure of the setup of this engine. So this may or may not be a difficult job. But it's going to be very labor intensive job.
It isn't a super tech job, just a long one since you have to break down the front if the engine to get to it.
If you do or pay someone, go ahead and replace the water pump and timing belt. Might as well.
I agree you need to figure out if you have an issue. Hearing engine damage noise, having an oil pressure warning and then not... Just too odd.
If you do or pay someone, go ahead and replace the water pump and timing belt. Might as well.
I agree you need to figure out if you have an issue. Hearing engine damage noise, having an oil pressure warning and then not... Just too odd.
hello guys. I used mystery oil and it did take care of the oil lamp for a while. It then started to whine bad and oil light came back. changed oil and put lucas stabilizer and synthetic oil. i know this doesn't sound right but i was trying anything. nothing still. pulled out the valve cover gasket to see what the heck is going on and geez, so much build up. so before i have to change the motor as a last resource. and because the motor isn't ticking or knocking yet. what is the best way to flush all this crap?
Attachments
earthrealm
Senior Member
double post
earthrealm
Senior Member
wow definetly in b ad shape....really interested in how u finally resolve this, i bet u bought the car used?..any history?..1 owner car?
I hate to say it, but if you read my post; I called it. Exactly this. Sludge.
First, stop using all those dang add on chemicals and gimmicks. They don't work and at worst can royally screw something up. When you mean flush, you really mean what do you throw in while driving to fix it? You don't. Any chemical harsh enough to tackle this will destroy your current oil as well. Not only that, it can send chunks of crud racing around killing stuff. The only way to deal with this is a complete breakdown.
How do you fix this without destroying the engine? Complete breakdown. This engine is the product of previous owners doing 0 maintenance. I have not heard of any serious issues with the 4 gens and sludge, which tells me that when taken care of.. it doesn't sludge up.
You tend to get sludge when a PO runs like 20k on crappy conventional oil and the oil completely breaks down.
My thoughts are, break her down.
First, stop using all those dang add on chemicals and gimmicks. They don't work and at worst can royally screw something up. When you mean flush, you really mean what do you throw in while driving to fix it? You don't. Any chemical harsh enough to tackle this will destroy your current oil as well. Not only that, it can send chunks of crud racing around killing stuff. The only way to deal with this is a complete breakdown.
How do you fix this without destroying the engine? Complete breakdown. This engine is the product of previous owners doing 0 maintenance. I have not heard of any serious issues with the 4 gens and sludge, which tells me that when taken care of.. it doesn't sludge up.
You tend to get sludge when a PO runs like 20k on crappy conventional oil and the oil completely breaks down.
My thoughts are, break her down.
Last edited:
earthrealm
Senior Member
old thread, but what did you finally do?
