I believe this is my first post on here since I bought my 98' Limited 4x4 4Runner 2 years ago. I am in a bit of a situation and not sure where else to turn. I grabbed a 2000 4Runner center console and cup holders to upgrade from my floppy radio bezel, climate control blocking ones. I installed the pieces and that went smoothly. When I went to start up the 4Runner, I have no power to any of my accessories, I cannot shift out of park, and my instrument cluster will only light up the airbag light and the battery light. The airbag light will go out like it should, but the battery light stays on. Now, ALL I did during the install was cut the tape off the harness for the back window and the ECT button. I checked already and did not cut into any wires and I was careful when working with them. I also relocated the RS3000 alarm sensor and light over towards the driver vent/ fog light switch area. I am pretty mechanically inclined and am taking classes to become an automotive technician. Sadly, I do not have access to my school's repair software and cannot get a wiring diagram. by accessories, I mean I have no power to anything inside the car besides power locks and headlights. I cannot turn the radio, climate control, windows (cabin or rear window or sunroof), or wipers or turn signals. I thought maybe I blew a fuse and I have checked them all as well as thought maybe the fuse panel "30A Power" maxi fuse may have blown. I replaced it to no avail. I also took my DVOM to the battery with the 4Runner running and it does not seem to be charging. I doubt it is alternator related as too many other items are messed up. Any ideas or help will be greatly appreciated as it is my daily driver!
Power Issue after Moving Wires
- Thread starter richeaus
- Start date
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No, the battery has plenty of juice in it. It starts just fine.
2016 4Runner SR5
Senior Member
Realized that after I commented lol. Take apart everything you did and figure out what you did wrong. Work backwards, only way to figure it out. Check all plugs on all modules. One way or another something came apart.
2016 4Runner SR5
Senior Member
It sounds like a BCM issue to me. Check your work and all connections.
Ghostrider
Registered User
IIRC there is a switch on the console near the shifter that is supposed to be used to release the shifter as a last resort. Can't remember the details and whether it is totally manual or has wires but it could be out of place and messing up the ignition circuit. IIRC is is a "slot" and you were supposed to use the key to push down into it. Looked on line for the mnaul and it's on page 214 and 215. Position differs on 2WD or 4WD
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TheDurk
Elite Member
'98 Power Source diagram below.
Need more info:
Does it start?
Does horn work?
Dome light?
Would be nice if you took that DVOM to the 30A Power fuse and see if there is power there on BOTH sides with key on.
Alternator is probably not charging because you have no power to the ALT-S fuse to excite the alt. Really goose the rpms and it might self-excite.
Need more info:
Does it start?
Does horn work?
Dome light?
Would be nice if you took that DVOM to the 30A Power fuse and see if there is power there on BOTH sides with key on.
Alternator is probably not charging because you have no power to the ALT-S fuse to excite the alt. Really goose the rpms and it might self-excite.
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Well, I spent 4 hours today trying to get everything to work. Took apart the console multiple times, and saw nothing wrong. Took it all apart, left it apart, starts up fine and everything works again. I wish I could say what the issue or the fix was, but currently, no center console and no shifter console, everything works again. That may be the weirdest electrical gremlin I personally have encountered.
Even though I just fixed it, I have no idea what fixed it. So in an effort to help me understand what may be the issue, I did have a horn, headlights, and dome lights.
2016 4Runner SR5
Senior Member
Maybe you put a screw through something when you put it all back together or you're putting too much stress on a harness that's pulling apart? Has to be something going on right there in the console area.
Maybe. I didn't see any frayed or bent wires, I ziptied them all into their respective places. The only things I moved was the ECT and Window button onto the radio bezel. Everything else stayed in the same place. I am going to try putting everything back again one at a time and see if anything messes it up again.
TheDurk
Elite Member
Well, you lost the key on part of the AM1 circuit. The key off part was still working, so it was not the AM1 fuse. So no fuse can cause that.
Suspects are:
- faulty key switch
- broken wire between key and aux. fuse box ( the white one )
- loose plug 1H in the rear of aux fuse box (black plug with only 4 wires at middle of right side of back of fuse box)
-defect in aux. fuse box (burnt or broken trace, etc.)
My guess, loose plug 1H.
Here is a better diagram:
I'm getting closer. I went back at it today and it's something to do with the wiring harness and loom that runs under the steering wheel. I'm not sure what's bad yet, and there are a few splice connectors that I doubt are factory, they may be the culprit. It's nothing I did yesterday, just bumped existing wires.
It is fixed. It was super simple but hard to locate. It ended up being a plug to the ignition switch. It wasn't fully seated into the female plug end and was apparently just making enough contact to work fine, but when I ran the alarm sensor wire I must have bumped it. It's probably been like that since I've owned and longer. I haven't even moved anything in that area until now!
