Power outlet in Center Console (Limited)
- Thread starter jduck
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huskernation
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you have to push the inverter button on the left lower part of drivers side front console.
kmiller8821
New member
I posted a similar question a long time ago, bottom line, mine does the same behavior ("appears backwards") I brought it to the dealers attention and they weren't sure either. A few other members posted that they had seen the same symptom. My dealer agrees that it's probably wired backwards. At the time, they didn't have a fix but they did a full check to ensure it was working correctly. I may bring it up again next time I'm at the dealer to see if there's a fix yet...
Here's my original thread: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/72855-2010-4runner-ltd-c-outlet-issue-concern.html
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Sorry for the dumb question. What is the difference between the two settings? Why would I want want/need to toggle? I assume it has to do with what is plugged in to the outlet and what the object requires, but is there a chance that I could cause harm to something I plug in with the wrong setting?
Thanks for the help,
ROb
Thanks for the help,
ROb
kmiller8821
New member
Actually, there's not really a "setting" per se. The switch is either ON or OFF. It just means that you can pull 400watts while the vehicle is running and in PARK, but only 100watts while it's in motion. So basically, you can use more power in PARK than you can while driving. Hope that helps.
rickwol
New member
I have a TE and just verified that my LED indicators appear to be wired correctly. In Park, both 400 and 100 illuminate. When dropped into Drive, only the 100 illuminates, as expected. If I hit the power button again while driving, both led's go out and if I hit it again while driving, only the 100 indicator comes on, again as expected. Kmiller, your dealer verified that your LED's were not wired correctly and opened a ticket with Toyota technical support. They were supposed to get back to you when a fix was available. This was over a year ago, did they ever contact you?
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kmiller8821
New member
No sir, they didn't. Honestly, I just kinda forgot about it since it works fine it's just the wrong lights illuminating. I wasn't the only one, if you look at that thread I referenced above, you'll see a few others had the same issue. I'll probably bring it up next time I'm at the dealer, I just honestly forgot about it. lol
rickwol
New member
Oh yeh, seemed like there were several others that had the same problem so I thought that maybe there would have a been a fix distributed by now. But as you say, it's small enough that it's easily forgotten and if you understand how it really works it's no big deal.
I guess what I don't understand is how do i know if i need/want 100 watts or 400 watts regardless of if I am moving? Maybe a specific example would help me?
Let me be clear, I am a total idiot about this stuff!
Thanks again,
Rob
kmiller8821
New member
Just look at the power requirements of the device your plugging in. For example, you can never use a hair dryer in your truck because those things pull major watts (way over 400). You can, however, plug a laptop charger in which may use 65w or 100w depending on the type. You could also plug some device in that uses 400w so long as you're not moving, because the system reduces the available wattage to 100w once it's "in gear" and in motion. I'm not sure "why" it's limited that way, I'm sure it has something to do with the inverter design, but that's how it is.
So, basically:
1. check the power requirements of your device.
2. If it's 100 watts (or less) you may plug it in and use it anytime the truck is running and the switch is turned on.
3. If it's greater than 100 watts (but less than or equal to 400 watts), you may use it while the truck is running, parked and switch turned on.
(The above is an assumption of a single device plugged in.)
Disclaimer: All statements above are based on your using the Toyota system integrated inverter in the truck. If you install your own inverter, check that inverter for it's particular power requirements. All statements above are true and correct as of this posting, per the 2010 Toyota 4Runner Owner's manual. If your vehicle is newer, check your manual for any applicable changes.
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rickwol
New member
SurferRob, Basically you need to be able to somewhat calculate the load for the item(s) (appliance) you want to run. For example an average coffee pot draws about 120 watts, or if you'd like to put a 52" paddle ceiling fan in your Limited, it draws about 90 watts. You can quickly overload the system. Don't forget that while you are moving there are many vehicle components also drawing power. In the last few years those inverters that plug into your cigarette lighter have become popular but our Toytas use a hard wired circuit. If you draw too much power you'll know it because you will essentially "trip the breaker". I'm sure someone here like the engineer can give you much more in-depth and better explanation and understanding of this. ---------"Oh, I see Kmiller above just posted an explanation"
Most electronics now have a label on the rear which helps figure out how much power the device will use. Wattage is calculated by multiplying Voltage by Amperage. i.e. 120V x 1A = 120W. It always good practice to allow for some margin. Some charger bricks have output voltage and amperage specified. An example would be 9V and 500ma (0.5A) which would be 4.5W output capability. I am very conservative and double that power value for the input wattage which would still only be 9W.
