Power steering not cutting it after lift

[kilowhisky]

Ever since i did the Tundra/LC lift and put on 17'' and 275s my power steering pump has been struggling to cope with moving the wheels when i am wheeling.

For instance if i'm up on a rock and need to turn to re-position how i will come off it the power steering pump just makes a lot of noise and struggles to rotate the tires (jerky movements, etc..).


Is there anything i can do other than get a larger pump and or steering rack? I already have the rack dropping spacers.

 

[APhelps]

What rack dropping spacers? You mean differential drop spacers?

 

[Twisted Sid]

Have you ever cleaned the screen in the bottom of the reservoir?

 

[Bad Luck]

Never heard of rack dropping spacers. Maybe you're thinking of front differential drop kit? Or the spacer for body lifts?

 

[phattyduck]

Try a new PS belt with good tension. It might just be slipping.

-Charlie

 

[mtbtim]

What [MENTION=130022]Twisted Sid[/MENTION] brought up is the same advice I'd give you. It's very likely your steering rack is asking for more than your power steering pump can deliver. Power steering fluid is one of those fluids people forget to service. As a result, it gets black and develops deposits that gets lodged in the reservoir screen. Over time, that screen can become blocked up so bad that it starves the system of fluid. It's my theory that with bigger tires after the lift you're causing your steering rack to work a little harder and that's why this problem surfaced. It would have eventually started making noise if you kept your rig stock but you just accelerated the surfacing of this problem.

Here's a video you can use to flush the power steering fluid in your system and clean out the reservoir screen. An addendum to this job is you could add an inline magnetic filter in the return line to your reservoir. Adding in a replaceable filter will ensure you never have to clean your reservoir screen out again but it will require extra labor to change the filter at regular intervals. I added a Magnefine filter that I plan replacing every 15k miles. Here's a link to filter I use: NEW Magnefine 3/8 Inch Magnetic Inline Power Steering Filter

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/5k61KXRK8bM" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[MaineRunna]

I would definitely check the belt first. Toyotas will have jerky or even almost no power assist whatsoever due to a loose or even slightly loose belt, often times without the usual squealing that other makes exibit. A fluid flush and reservoir cleaning as suggested above is also a good idea. Toyotas take dexron III for PS fluid, but you can use power steering fluid if you flush out the system and only use one kind of fluid.

 

[307Vintage]

I just did the power steering flush just like on the above video. I am amazed at how effortless my steering became. If I were you I’d do it.

 

[kilowhisky]

Never heard of rack dropping spacers. Maybe you're thinking of front differential drop kit? Or the spacer for body lifts?

Yep, thats the one.

What [MENTION=130022]Twisted Sid[/MENTION] brought up is the same advice I'd give you. It's very likely your steering rack is asking for more than your power steering pump can deliver. Power steering fluid is one of those fluids people forget to service. As a result, it gets black and develops deposits that gets lodged in the reservoir screen. Over time, that screen can become blocked up so bad that it starves the system of fluid. It's my theory that with bigger tires after the lift you're causing your steering rack to work a little harder and that's why this problem surfaced. It would have eventually started making noise if you kept your rig stock but you just accelerated the surfacing of this problem.

Here's a video you can use to flush the power steering fluid in your system and clean out the reservoir screen. An addendum to this job is you could add an inline magnetic filter in the return line to your reservoir. Adding in a replaceable filter will ensure you never have to clean your reservoir screen out again but it will require extra labor to change the filter at regular intervals. I added a Magnefine filter that I plan replacing every 15k miles. Here's a link to filter I use: NEW Magnefine 3/8 Inch Magnetic Inline Power Steering Filter

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/5k61KXRK8bM" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Awesome, I will be doing this then. I bought it with 200k on it a couple years ago (now at 210k). I bet the fluid has never been changed!

I would definitely check the belt first. Toyotas will have jerky or even almost no power assist whatsoever due to a loose or even slightly loose belt, often times without the usual squealing that other makes exibit. A fluid flush and reservoir cleaning as suggested above is also a good idea. Toyotas take dexron III for PS fluid, but you can use power steering fluid if you flush out the system and only use one kind of fluid.

Your right, the belts may be a bit to blame here. I honestly have no idea the last time any of them have been changed or even if the timing belt is due either. I've been checking tension by hand and looking for cracks but so far i thought they were good.

Thanks for all the help! I'm glad to here that the power steering pump shouldn't have any problem with the larger tires.

 

[RumHam26]

I had jerky and squealy steering in the winter for about 2 years. I did the flush as Tim described, but my reservoir screen was pretty clean. Changing the belt was what fixed it %100 - it wasn't even that old and seemed plenty tight. I think once it slips a couple times the belt gets glazed and doesn't grip the pulley well.

 

[phattyduck]

I think once it slips a couple times the belt gets glazed and doesn't grip the pulley well.

Bingo. Even if it is tight, when it is old, the hard/smooth surface can allow slippage.

-Charlie

 

[Rockdawg84]

Have you ever cleaned the screen in the bottom of the reservoir?

This!!!! it will really help. I run 35's and the stock pump should have no problem keeping up. if it does most likely the screen is clogged not letting enough fluid flow.

 

[kilowhisky]

Wow,

My "filter" was nearly 100% blocked. Hot damn a lot of stuff came out.

Also, that video should make note that the screen is not stuck in there with any force. I managed to poke it hard enough to turn the damn thing sideways. It took quite a while to get it re-seated properly.

Flush wasn't that bad though, only took about 1.5qt to get perfectly clean fluid. I replaced the belts too. So far so good, though i won't know until i get the rig running again and out on the trail.

 

[mtbtim]

Wow,

My "filter" was nearly 100% blocked. Hot damn a lot of stuff came out.

Also, that video should make note that the screen is not stuck in there with any force. I managed to poke it hard enough to turn the damn thing sideways. It took quite a while to get it re-seated properly.

Flush wasn't that bad though, only took about 1.5qt to get perfectly clean fluid. I replaced the belts too. So far so good, though i won't know until i get the rig running again and out on the trail.

I didn't think to tell people, "Hey Dudes, don't poke that fine mesh screen with the brake cleaner nozzle" because it's pretty obvious to me you don't want to do that. When making a video, you can't account for people doing things you didn't intend them to do. The brake cleaner is doing the cleaning, not poking the damn thing with the freaking nozzle. Quite often with auto mechanics, you have to use a little finesse and have a steady hand. You're not ramming the nozzle in there like you're slamming a 2 dollar whore in the back alley. Insert the nozzle gently and spray. Repeat until the screen is clear.

 

[kilowhisky]

I didn't think to tell people, "Hey Dudes, don't poke that fine mesh screen with the brake cleaner nozzle" because it's pretty obvious to me you don't want to do that. When making a video, you can't account for people doing things you didn't intend them to do. The brake cleaner is doing the cleaning, not poking the damn thing with the freaking nozzle. Quite often with auto mechanics, you have to use a little finesse and have a steady hand. You're not ramming the nozzle in there like you're slamming a 2 dollar whore in the back alley. Insert the nozzle gently and spray. Repeat until the screen is clear.

Yea i didn't quite know where the nozzle to the mesh was. It was actually not hard to dislodge it. I just put the tip against the mesh and it just kinda just kept going. Couldn't see what i was doing so i didn't even think i had hit the mesh. At one point it was shaking around in there like a maraca. Took a bit to get it re-seated again but it eventually laid flat.

The video was still 1000% helpful. Its the best produced and concise how-to video i've ever run across. Thanks!

 

[mtbtim]

Yea i didn't quite know where the nozzle to the mesh was. It was actually not hard to dislodge it. I just put the tip against the mesh and it just kinda just kept going. Couldn't see what i was doing so i didn't even think i had hit the mesh. At one point it was shaking around in there like a maraca. Took a bit to get it re-seated again but it eventually laid flat.

The video was still 1000% helpful. Its the best produced and concise how-to video i've ever run across. Thanks!

I was just busting your balls a bit. It is a good point that the mesh can be easily dislodged. I guess I could mention that in a pinned comment. When I made the video, I was thinking that I didn't want to jam the nozzle into the screen but I'm fairly certain I lightly contacted it a few times when doing the cleaning.