Power steering rack replacement

Bootboy

New member
So my 2000 has developed an obscene PS leak on the passenger side of the rack. It’s gotten to the point that I’m adding a few oz of fluid every day. The boot on the passenger side is full of fluid and it leaks profusely. Pretty sure I just need a new rack.

How involved is the replacement for a DIY guy like myself? Half a day? Special tools/procedures?

I’m fairly handy and do most of the work on my truck.

OEM rack or NAPA reman?

Thoughts?


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How involved is the replacement for a DIY guy like myself? Half a day? Special tools/procedures?

You can do it yourself, the hardest part will the alignment afterwards!

There are plenty of videos, and some specific to 4runners by [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] and [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION], you can find them with a forum search

As far as sourcing the rack, lots of guys use remans to save cost, while the purist in the crowd will opt for an OEM from either a wreck or the stealership.

ps. while you have the rack out is a perfect time to freshen up your LCA bushings and sway bar bushings. You can find videos on that here too by the same two guys :thumb:
 
I would look into a salvage yard rack. I picked one up for $100. Swapped my outer and inner tie rods on as well as my bushings. I had fairly new bushings so it made sense. Took me a couple days working a few hours each day. Took my time making sure I did it right since its not my only vehicle. Followed mtbtims video on YouTube.

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I’ll look for a salvage first.

My old ‘97 has 230k and steering has never been touched and is fine. So maybe I’ll get lucky with a salvage unit.

I did ALL my front end bushings last summer so I’m all set there.

Thanks


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The cool thing is racks speak for themselves, if the ITRE or OTRE are bad, you can tell by manipulating it on the junk vehicle, same with the seals - if its leaking skip it, etc. Just get new bushings if you use a salvage rack.

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My 2000 w/ 260k miles went bad ironically after doing the roller guide upgrade and now I had to order a new rack & pinion all this after I ordered new OEM ITRs/OTRs. Guess I get to sell the ITR's and the slightly used upgraded rack guide stuff

I almost ordered the rack from carsteering but I ended up ordering a new OEM rack for mcgreggor toyota after the many reviews. I plan on doing mine this coming week and doesn't look like any special tools but flare wrenches.
 
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When you find a replacement rack, here's a video that will help you with the swap.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/wZoRP5ogrK0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
FWIW, for those non-mechanically inclined, or those who are but don't have the time, or just don't want to, the dealership quoted me 2.9 hours "by the book" for the swap.

I jumped on the first appointment at that rate, honestly. The rack is something I'd just rather pay someone else to do. I was quoted right at or under $400 out the door for the swap, (customer provided part obviously), a rotate, balance, and alignment.
 
I picked up a detroit axle steering rack on ebay for 200$, really satisfied.

Removal and installation is not as easy as people in here let it look if you are in any are where there is salt or risk of rust.
 
Local classifieds have several trucks being parted out. Gonna make some phone calls. I’ll let y’all know what I find


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Found a OEM rack that had been replaced on a wreck. About 10k on the rack. All OEM for $250. Got the swap done but I screwed up my rag joint and my steering wheel is 45° off. Doh!

Anyone want my old rack for rebuilding? I hate to just throw it away.
 
Found a OEM rack that had been replaced on a wreck. About 10k on the rack. All OEM for $250. Got the swap done but I screwed up my rag joint and my steering wheel is 45° off. Doh!

Anyone want my old rack for rebuilding? I hate to just throw it away.

I'm assuming you watched our video. At the end of the video, you can see us making adjustments at the rag joint to get the steering wheel straight.

Here's what you do:
1) Get your wheels straight.
2) Disconnect the rag joint bolts and slide the upper half up and out of the way.
3) Have a helper turn the steering wheel straight and hold it there.
4) Slide the lower half of the rag joint off the splines of the steering rack and adjust it until the upper and lower halves line up again.
5) Bolt it back up and you now have a straight steering wheel again.
 
I'm assuming you watched our video. At the end of the video, you can see us making adjustments at the rag joint to get the steering wheel straight.

Here's what you do:
1) Get your wheels straight.
2) Disconnect the rag joint bolts and slide the upper half up and out of the way.
3) Have a helper turn the steering wheel straight and hold it there.
4) Slide the lower half of the rag joint off the splines of the steering rack and adjust it until the upper and lower halves line up again.
5) Bolt it back up and you now have a straight steering wheel again.

[MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION],
I used your videos, but found if you just remove the 2 x 12mm slip-joint bolts, slide the whole slip-joint up (with rag-joint attached) and turn wheel until straight was much easier to do than undoing the rag-joint bolts. (Then slide the slip-joint back on the splines of steer rack and torque to spec). Took about 5 minutes to do by myself.

-J
 
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[MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION],
I used your videos, but found if you just remove the 2 x 12mm slip-joint bolts, slide the whole slip-joint up (with rag-joint attached) and turn wheel until straight was much easier to do than undoing the rag-joint bolts. (Then slide the slip-joint back on the splines of steer rack and torque to spec). Took about 5 minutes to do by myself.

-J

Yeah, you're right, that is way easier.

When I did this job, I wasn't sure you could slide the whole rag joint up high enough on the steering shaft to clear the splines on the steering rack. I thought I would need some manipulation of the steering shaft pushing it out of the way so I could slide the lower half of the rag joint up and off of the steering rack splines.

Thanks for sharing this.
 
The whole problem is that I can’t fit the life of me get the top of the rag joint off the shaft. It slides up and down but I can’t get it to come off
 
I purchased a rack from www.carsteering.com and was absolutely impressed with the quality of the rack I received. As I did not have time to install it myself, I paid a local "tire shop" to do it. I am glad I did as the fluid feed lines were so fused to the rack, they had to cut them off and replace the lines.

I have been pleased with this rack and have had NO ISSUES since it was installed way back in 2013! Awesome product and I believe there are a couple of other guys on here who bought from the same company and have been pleased.....
 
I purchased a rack from www.carsteering.com and was absolutely impressed with the quality of the rack I received. As I did not have time to install it myself, I paid a local "tire shop" to do it. I am glad I did as the fluid feed lines were so fused to the rack, they had to cut them off and replace the lines.

I have been pleased with this rack and have had NO ISSUES since it was installed way back in 2013! Awesome product and I believe there are a couple of other guys on here who bought from the same company and have been pleased.....

How's your 4Runner built, and how's it used?
 
The whole problem is that I can’t fit the life of me get the top of the rag joint off the shaft. It slides up and down but I can’t get it to come off

You don't need to take the upper part of the rag joint off the shaft. You just need to slide it up and out of the way and do it like I mentioned or try the method of loosening both pinch bolts and sliding the whole rag up as one unit like [MENTION=162823]firemanj92[/MENTION] mentioned, turn the steering wheel straight and then setting it back down onto the steering rack splined gear.
 
You don't need to take the upper part of the rag joint off the shaft. You just need to slide it up and out of the way and do it like I mentioned or try the method of loosening both pinch bolts and sliding the whole rag up as one unit like [MENTION=162823]firemanj92[/MENTION] mentioned, turn the steering wheel straight and then setting it back down onto the steering rack splined gear.

Or, as in my case where the rag joint bottom could not be separated from the rack without the use of fissile material, and you are replacing the frame, you can set the wheels true straight, set the steering wheel straight, and then insert the shaft into the rag joint as you raise the frame back onto the vehicle.

That method is not for everybody.
 

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