Power window craziness

T

Tomjt

New member
does anyone have knowledge on this one... 99 3rd gen 4runner has auto power switch on drivers and passengers front. Led on drivers switch lights up, passenger auto light on drivers panel does not and also does not light on passenger side. Replaced regulator, motor and switch on passenger side--correctly. Put old motor on 12v and it works!! Checked brushes by pulling motor apart and they're good. Rechecked old motor on hard alligator to pin 12v gear spins! Replaced old motor regulator and nothing.. Tried new switch old switch nothing. ALL other windows work. All door locks work. I checked every normal panel connection.

Is it possibly in the drivers switch as the "auto" led only works for driver? I'm going to get a multimeter, but I'd like to know what I should be looking for exactly. Please help this migraine.
 
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Tomjt said:
does anyone have knowledge on this one... 99 3rd gen 4runner has auto power switch on drivers and passengers front. Led on drivers switch lights up, passenger auto light on drivers panel does not and also does not light on passenger side. Replaced regulator, motor and switch on passenger side--correctly. Put old motor on 12v and it works!! Checked brushes by pulling motor apart and they're good. Rechecked old motor on hard alligator to pin 12v gear spins! Replaced old motor regulator and nothing.. Tried new switch old switch nothing. ALL other windows work. All door locks work. I checked every normal panel connection.

Is it possibly in the drivers switch as the "auto" led only works for driver? I'm going to get a multimeter, but I'd like to know what I should be looking for exactly. Please help this migraine.
Click to expand...

Wow, you may be OCD. I've been driving a '99 for over 15 years and I have no idea if the passenger switch lights up. And guess what? It wouldn't bother me if it didn't. I'll check.
 
Let me clarify

I wasn't clear the first time. I don't care that the LED isn't on although there is one on the circuit board. Its the fact that I cannot get the window to work. New switch/motor/regulator and all old switch/motor/regulator proved to be working.

I'm guessing there is a wiring behind the dash, or the switch in the drivers panel, or maybe a relay that I am missing?? I've checked and checked the connections.

Sigh*

Maybe not OCD, but this is driving me crazy!!.
 
You need to bust out a wiring diagram and start chasing wiring. I'd first look for an open where they come into the door near the hinge.
 
Tomjt said:
I wasn't clear the first time. I don't care that the LED isn't on although there is one on the circuit board. Its the fact that I cannot get the window to work. New switch/motor/regulator and all old switch/motor/regulator proved to be working.

I'm guessing there is a wiring behind the dash, or the switch in the drivers panel, or maybe a relay that I am missing?? I've checked and checked the connections.

Sigh*

Maybe not OCD, but this is driving me crazy!!.
Click to expand...

Ahhh! That we can deal with. I have a '99 EWD. We (I and [MENTION=102597]IBallEngineer[/MENTION]) just helped someone with a similar issue and traced it to a faulty junction in the left kick panel--if you are prepared to actually troubleshoot and not throw parts at it...we can do yours. I'll get back to you when I did out my book...

Just so you have an idea, here is how it is done:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/162975-master-window-switch-problem-3.html
 
Last edited:
TheDurk said:
Ahhh! That we can deal with. I have a '99 EWD. We (I and [MENTION=102597]IBallEngineer[/MENTION]) just helped someone with a similar issue and traced it to a faulty junction in the left kick panel--if you are prepared to actually troubleshoot and not throw parts at it...we can do yours. I'll get back to you when I did out my book...
Click to expand...

One thing good about having replaced all those parts, wait, there is nothing good about that! But the good news is we can FIX IT!

:popcorn:
 
OK. I'll scan and post the wiring diagram shortly. You will need a meter, in all likelihood, but a simple 12V test light can get us started if you have one.

Just to be clear, the front passenger window will not go up or down from the door switch or the master. Is that correct? Is it currently up or down? (so we know which direction to try to make it move)

Assuming it is, the key connections to check first are the blue wire at T7 of the passenger door window control switch and the white/black wire at T12. The blue should have 12V+ with key ON and the white/black should be a full-time ground as long as the lock-out switch on the drivers door is closed. You need to check each wire separately and then verify there is 12V between the two of them.

If you need help doing that, just ask.
 
Here is the wiring diagram. Sorry, I thought they would be in a single multi-page file. I have to work on my scanning skills.
 

Attachments

Awesome I'm going to work on this tonight. I'll post tomorrow let you know what I find thank you! Off to dig out that multimeter
 
If I do find no voltage what is suspect? Sorry trying to do all this in between helping wifey with newborn..
 
Tomjt said:
If I do find no voltage what is suspect? Sorry trying to do all this in between helping wifey with newborn..
Click to expand...

Well, since you have replaced all the hardware, I'm assuming the fail is due to lack of circuit continuity, either between the door switch and source of power/ground, or between switch and motor. Once we figure out which circuit is interrupted, we will check at each intermediate junction until we find the fault.

Newborns. Heh. Been there, done that. Three times. Enjoy the ride. Congrats.
 
Tomjt said:
Touching 7 and 12 and my door locks unlock
Click to expand...

Well, that's not right. The door lock circuit is a whole different, smaller plug. Are you working on a plug that has a pin-out like Plug P4 on page 139 that I posted? Do the wire colors match what I specified? Did you try it with the switch unplugged from all plugs (there are two, right? I'd go look at mine but we're getting hammered by a thunderstorm.)

What do you mean by touching 7 and 12? You need to be very precise in describing what you are doing and what is the result.
 
I was testing the switch directly plugged to window switch as described in the diagram. When I was doing this though a guy came to offer cash in hand for the 4runner and made an offer I couldn't refuse.. Crazy without your help and quick response I'd probably be planning on my whole Saturday.. Thank you drake seriously this board rocks, sorry I couldn't finish sleuthing this for the next consumer..
 
Tomjt said:
I was testing the switch directly plugged to window switch as described in the diagram. When I was doing this though a guy came to offer cash in hand for the 4runner and made an offer I couldn't refuse.. Crazy without your help and quick response I'd probably be planning on my whole Saturday.. Thank you drake seriously this board rocks, sorry I couldn't finish sleuthing this for the next consumer..
Click to expand...

Oh, well. We would have tracked it down, I promise.
 
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