Power windows not working. Tried everything

[Boads]

Any help would be amazing.

My front 2 windows don’t work and haven’t really since I have had the car. Occasionally the driver side would work for a week then not for months . Passenger side would work for a week then nothing for months . They never worked both at the same time and now they don’t move at all. The rear windows both function perfectly as well as the tailgate .

The windows wouldn’t work regardless of which switch I would use ( both driver and passenger switches.) master switch does roll down both rear windows no problem . Power mirror and door lock switches work perfectly also .

I have bought new switches , and just installed new motor and regulator and that didn’t fix it . So I am beginning to think it is the relay . I really don’t know what else it could be at this point. All connections seem good .

Does anyone know where the relay is that controls the front 2 power windows?

 

[Skulking]

Any help would be amazing.

My front 2 windows don’t work and haven’t really since I have had the car. Occasionally the driver side would work for a week then not for months . Passenger side would work for a week then nothing for months . They never worked both at the same time and now they don’t move at all. The rear windows both function perfectly as well as the tailgate .

The windows wouldn’t work regardless of which switch I would use ( both driver and passenger switches.) master switch does roll down both rear windows no problem . Power mirror and door lock switches work perfectly also .

I have bought new switches , and just installed new motor and regulator and that didn’t fix it . So I am beginning to think it is the relay . I really don’t know what else it could be at this point. All connections seem good .

Does anyone know where the relay is that controls the front 2 power windows?

Look at the wiring in the boot running from the drivers door to the body. As the door is opened and closed repeatedly the wires can break.

 

[Sarki]

Look at the wiring in the boot running from the drivers door to the body. As the door is opened and closed repeatedly the wires can break.

+1
Had that exact issue with my rear drivers side door, the one the kids open constantly.
Wires were bad and window would work sporadically…..easy fix.

 

[IBallEngineer]

Yes the connector is a common problem, but if you don't find a problem there the problem can be either the master switch or the Body ECU in the dash. Its easy to troubleshoot if you have a test light or a multimeter and are willing to take some directions. Tag me if you need step by step help. Or reach out to [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] if he has some free time.

 

[HappyHooligan]

Yes the connector is a common problem, but if you don't find a problem there the problem can be either the master switch or the Body ECU in the dash. Its easy to troubleshoot if you have a test light or a multimeter and are willing to take some directions. Tag me if you need step by step help. Or reach out to [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] if he has some free time.

I can use that step by step

 

[ArthurKotb]

I had a '91 Camry with the RF power window wouldn't work. It started hesitating and would not go all the way up. I thought it was the motor but when I took the door panel off and applied a positive and negative connection to the motor it worked. Reverse polarity and the window rolls the other way. I never got it fixed for the driver's control but by giving it a ground from the RF door switch to the chassis I was at least able to roll it up and down using the button on the passenger door. It wasn't elegant but it worked. I checked the ground from the door to the chassis and it was fine, power too. (The door switch is what reversed the polarity to the motor. I never found a relay.)

I checked with Toyota parts about a new master control switch and they said $200, no return on the part. That was a lot of money at the time so I never fixed it.

I don't know if there is an ECU for that but a Google search for a power window ECU for Gen3 4Runner didn't turn up anything. I hate electrical problems but since you've replaced the door and master control switches then I'd say it's a broken wire somewhere. You'll have to do continuity checks from the door's window motor, through the door switch and into the dash, follow it through the wire bundles to the master control on the driver's side. A wiring diagram would certainly help. Here is a link that may provide a resource for you
3rd Gen FAQ, Tutorials, & Documentation Reference v2

 

[IBallEngineer]

I can use that step by step

OK, I may be able to help you in small batches of time. What precisely is the failure you are experiencing? What door window, and/or switch is failing? What if anything have you attempted as a repair?

 

[HappyHooligan]

OK, I may be able to help you in small batches of time. What precisely is the failure you are experiencing? What door window, and/or switch is failing? What if anything have you attempted as a repair?

thanks. Here's what happened: The other day I came out and my windows and doors didn't work. I found that that 39 fuse was blown. I put a new one in. Windows work fine. both from each door and the master divers switch.
Drivers power door lock works on the divers side. Key fob only opens the drivers door. Passenger door switch does not unlock the door. I check the drivers boot and didn't see any damage to any wires in there.

Is there a replay or something that controls everything from the drivers side?

 

[IBallEngineer]

thanks. Here's what happened: The other day I came out and my windows and doors didn't work. I found that that 39 fuse was blown. I put a new one in. Windows work fine. both from each door and the master divers switch.
Drivers power door lock works on the divers side. Key fob only opens the drivers door. Passenger door switch does not unlock the door. I check the drivers boot and didn't see any damage to any wires in there.

Is there a replay or something that controls everything from the drivers side?

Starting with the bold quote, does the switch in the driver's door(master sw) open and lock all the doors?
The underlined quote, the key fob unlocks and locks the driver's door but not the other doors? Does it normally require two cycles to unlock the other doors?
Now the Italics quote, the passenger door lock switch doesn't lock or unlock any door?

What happens if you try using the driver's side outside lock cylinder with the key, does it unlock the driver's door then the other doors on the 2nd cycle of the key?

 

[HappyHooligan]

Starting with the bold quote, does the switch in the driver's door(master sw) open and lock all the doors?
No, just the drivers.

The underlined quote, the key fob unlocks and locks the driver's door but not the other doors? Does it normally require two cycles to unlock the other doors?
Yes, but two cycles doesn't do anything.

Now the Italics quote, the passenger door lock switch doesn't lock or unlock any door?
Correct

What happens if you try using the driver's side outside lock cylinder with the key, does it unlock the driver's door then the other doors on the 2nd cycle of the key?

it just unlocks the drivers door.

 

[HappyHooligan]

so here's the latest.

Key fob opens drivers lock only. Key in drivers door opens drivers door only. Key in passenger opens passenger and drivers door.

Drivers key pad opens only drivers door. Passenger key pad doesn't open anything, but I am hearing a clicking sound about where the fuse box is.

I'm thinking it might be the fuse panel.

 

[IBallEngineer]

so here's the latest.

Key fob opens drivers lock only. Key in drivers door opens drivers door only. Key in passenger opens passenger and drivers door.

Drivers key pad opens only drivers door. Passenger key pad doesn't open anything, but I am hearing a clicking sound about where the fuse box is.

I'm thinking it might be the fuse panel.

Sorry I couldn't reply last night because I was busy making a lesson plan for high schoolers. So you have a lot going on, but there is a solution. You can probably chance replacing the Body ECU and have a good shot at solving this, but I think you have other issues too.

Let's start with the lock cylinders in the doors. Both left and right ground the same wire to lock the doors, but they have different wires to unlock, that's why on the passenger side it always unlocks all doors with one turn(when working correctly), while the driver's side only unlocks the driver's door unless you turn it a second time. Based on your description, it COULD be a failure of the Body ECU. To absolutely confirm that you would have to check that the Body ECU receives a ground signal at connector A terminal 13 for the LH, and 12 for the RH, every time you cycle the key in the door lock. That is for unlock function. Then if you do in fact have the ground signals, then you will need to check the output to the rear doors.

You should have ground at Terminal 14 for RH front door and ground at Term 8(connector B) for the two rear doors. All door lock actuators share the positive circuit for unlocking.

Now I have a feeling you have some bad actuators in the rear, because when you say the RH door lock cyl opens the two front doors, it means the power supply side is good, and at least TWO of the three ground outputs are working.

This is a digital EWD for you too look at.

http://web.archive.org/web/20100203050710/http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/ewdtmc2/ewdtmpdf/ewdsourc/2002/024runne/systemci/033wdlc.pdf


I think you should check the rear door actuators individually before you buy anything.

Let me know if you need clarification of any of this!

 

[HappyHooligan]

thank you again. I'm thinking it's the fuse box. it's a used replacement from a past wiring issue/fire. It's been good for 9 months but I guess it's done.