Powered Subwoofer installation questions? Updates???

Vegas

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So I found my old powered-sub it's a little guy... Not looking for boom just remember it sounding good in my SR5 so might as well try to throw it in my Trail... and after reading Antwan's under the seat installation I thought it was great... Makes me almost want to Craigslist this old powered-sub and buy a sleek under the seat one (I know he ended up moving it to the back cause he likes the cars, the cars that go boom...(haha, that just happened)... Here's
my questions...

Are their any updated adapters that can be used to plug and play to fit plug the sub into the factory entune head unit?
I noticed they now sell speaker adapters and also on amazon they now sell a speaker adapter to put a 5.5 or 6.5 round speaker into the factory 6x9 spot not sure how well this will work to clear the windows etc. but if you want to replace your front door speakers but want to build an adapter looks like it could/should work... Anyways...

When I removed my powered sub at the dealership I unplugged it but didn't take the remote or the wiring harness... I had it professionally installed last time so it looks like it fits a square 4 speakers line-in wires? So should I follow the Antman mod and vampire into the speaker wires behind the entune head unit?

Or do I just tap into the rears using this little adapter to covert it to RCAs?

(((Buy time I bought a remote replacement and a wiring sub kit I am thinking that I have already dropped $50 that could have gone towards an under the seat sub, since a lot on crutchfield deals come with both. Here some pics so you guys now what I am talking about... Any help is always very appreciated Thanks!

Wiring kit
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Back of sub up close
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Should I use this? If so just to rear speakers?
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Front
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Ported back
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Thanks!
 
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Yeah, I'd just use the high level inputs. I installed my old 12" xplod in the back of my 2010 SR5 using high level. I just tapped into the wires leading to the tailgate speakers (you don't need 2 channels for a sub). I hit the wires in the rear driver side door sill.

Just read the high level instructions for your setup - you don't need a remote power on signal with your setup! I used the rear power outlet which is ignition controlled to turn my amp on - just ran the wire into the wheel well compartment and hit the +12v wire that feeds the power outlet (the 12v one!)

Without an aftermarket deck, you don't have sub volume control, but set the sub to nicely match the speaker volume and you can always fade towards the front if you need to reduce the bass (i.e. if your poor dog is back there!!).
 
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Yeah, I'd just use the high level inputs. I installed my old 12" xplod in the back of my 2010 SR5 using high level. I just tapped into the wires leading to the tailgate speakers (you don't need 2 channels for a sub). I hit the wires in the rear driver side door sill.

Just read the high level instructions for your setup - you don't need a remote power on signal with your setup! I used the rear power outlet which is ignition controlled to turn my amp on - just ran the wire into the wheel well compartment and hit the +12v wire that feeds the power outlet (the 12v one!)

Without an aftermarket deck, you don't have sub volume control, but set the sub to nicely match the speaker volume and you can always fade towards the front if you need to reduce the bass (i.e. if your poor dog is back there!!).

Thanks for all this great info!!!

So I find where the wires go into tailgate and tap into right and left speakers...
But there is 4 wires coming out of the speaker square that connect to the sub.
Do I twist two together two from the sub and connect to the POS wire that is taped into left and then the other two twisted from Sub connect to the Right Pos? The diagram shows R+ and R- and L+ and L- but the kid at best buy said do not use the ground.... or Maybe he was confused cause I am so confused and I should tap into Pos and neg?

Also if I go to the head unit it looks like in the write ups they had more than 4 wires coming out of the sub...so do I tap into Front left/right (doors not tweeter) and Rear doors or tail gate left/right... It's only 4 wires that's the added confusion... That's why it's easier to buy the same setup as Antman easier to follow along in the write up.


I hope my confusion makes sense to anyone out there?:der:

So you are saying I can tap into the 12v power connector instead of running the thick red cable all the way to the battery? No i think you're saying if I needed to tap into the remote power cable that is where I would, but there is no need to even add a remote power source wire cause the speaker power is set to key-ON so it will automatically signal the sub that its time to wake up and party? ...


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Thanks for all this great info!!!

So I find where the wires go into tailgate and tap into right and left speakers...
But there is 4 wires coming out of the speaker square that connect to the sub.
Do I twist two together two from the sub and connect to the POS wire that is taped into left and then the other two twisted from Sub connect to the Right Pos? The diagram shows R+ and R- and L+ and L- but the kid at best buy said do not use the ground.... or Maybe he was confused cause I am so confused and I should tap into Pos and neg?

Also if I go to the head unit it looks like in the write ups they had more than 4 wires coming out of the sub...so do I tap into Front left/right (doors not tweeter) and Rear doors or tail gate left/right... It's only 4 wires that's the added confusion... That's why it's easier to buy the same setup as Antman easier to follow along in the write up.


I hope my confusion makes sense to anyone out there?:der:

So you are saying I can tap into the 12v power connector instead of running the thick red cable all the way to the battery? No i think you're saying if I needed to tap into the remote power cable that is where I would, but there is no need to even add a remote power source wire cause the speaker power is set to key-ON so it will automatically signal the sub that its time to wake up and party? ...


View attachment 79856

Hey man, I'll try to answer your questions. You hook up all four wires of the hi input to the left and right positive and negative. That would be two channel input. Some amps can be setup for mono.

I'd access the wires in the rear door driver side. Its way easier to get through the door sill. Tailgate is a *****. Find yourself a wiring diagram for your truck(repair manual is great too) find what color wires you looking for.

You always need to have a good ground for an amp. Otherwise, you're dead in the water (that's the return path to the battery). My comment about the remote wire didn't apply in your case, so probably added to the confusion. You still need that thick red cable to the battery, and make sure you've got a fuse near the battery. You only need the right and left channels, so I'd just use the tailgate feed wires in the door sill. Another benefit to using those channels, it gets louder in party mode!).
 
Hey man, I'll try to answer your questions. You hook up all four wires of the hi input to the left and right positive and negative. That would be two channel input. Some amps can be setup for mono.

I'd access the wires in the rear door driver side. Its way easier to get through the door sill. Tailgate is a *****. Find yourself a wiring diagram for your truck(repair manual is great too) find what color wires you looking for.

You always need to have a good ground for an amp. Otherwise, you're dead in the water (that's the return path to the battery). My comment about the remote wire didn't apply in your case, so probably added to the confusion. You still need that thick red cable to the battery, and make sure you've got a fuse near the battery. You only need the right and left channels, so I'd just use the tailgate feed wires in the door sill. Another benefit to using those channels, it gets louder in party mode!).


Sweet thanks for taking the time to help me out. Makes lots more sense now.:thumb:
 
Sweet thanks for taking the time to help me out. Makes lots more sense now.:thumb:

No problem man. Now the trick is passing the battery supply wire through the firewall and popping off trim panels! When you're looking for the speaker wires, they should be the only twisted pairs in the wiring bundle under the rear driver side door sill. Any questions, double check the wiring diagram/ repair manual.

Have fun!
 
No problem man. Now the trick is passing the battery supply wire through the firewall and popping off trim panels! When you're looking for the speaker wires, they should be the only twisted pairs in the wiring bundle under the rear driver side door sill. Any questions, double check the wiring diagram/ repair manual.

Have fun!

I noticed alot of people use the existing hole in the firewall to pass accessory the wire through...is that what you did or did you drill a new hole and seal it? I'm guessing new hole cause its a big wire.

What kind of taps did you use for the rear speakers? Will something like these work? Or are the a bad idea when used for Car audio connections?
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Thanks again!
 

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I noticed alot of people use the existing hole in the firewall to pass accessory the wire through...is that what you did or did you drill a new hole and seal it? I'm guessing new hole cause its a big wire.

What kind of taps did you use for the rear speakers? Will something like these work? Or are the a bad idea when used for Car audio connections?
View attachment 79883

Thanks again!

Yeah, it's tricky though as there is a seal grommet which you need to get through (preferably not making any new holes in it!). I usually use a wire clothes hanger with a shot of wd-40 on it to slide it through. Then tape the wire to the clothes hanger, and pull it through carefully.

I've never used wire taps, but I can't imagine why they wouldn't work. I tend to solder but I know that's overkill for audio connections.
 
Yeah, it's tricky though as there is a seal grommet which you need to get through (preferably not making any new holes in it!). I usually use a wire clothes hanger with a shot of wd-40 on it to slide it through. Then tape the wire to the clothes hanger, and pull it through carefully.

I've never used wire taps, but I can't imagine why they wouldn't work. I tend to solder but I know that's overkill for audio connections.
(Thanks again you have been better help than tech support for the company I work at...shhhhh) I just got a soldering tool so ill try to do it the right way to ensure it doesn't come lose down the road... Going to watch some YouTube clips on how to do it right... I was an electrical tape guy for a long time, don't judge me and I can recall that i wrapped naked accessory wires around the battery post :behindsofa:
Posi tap connectors work nice and are re-usable.
I having been trying to find the best way to tap into wires I have never seen these before only the 3M vampire clips style ones. Thanks for educating me :party:
 
Changed my setup need some help please!!!

I had a quick question I changed my power sub that I was going with... (I have the nav-factory head unit w/ non-jbl) the new powered sub I picked up has 4 speaker outputs... So do I still only tap into the rear hatch from the head unit and hook it up that way?
Or do I tap into the front and back to get the most out of the system?

If so do I do tap into the tweeter and front door togther ? and for the rear doors or tail gate wires for the rear?

And the more I read about the party mode the more confused I get... About when wiring a powered sub (rear doors/rear hatch wires) where I will get the most bang for my buck.

I have read through a lot of threads trying to figure this out any help would be great! Thanks!

I think if I follow the Antman thread I will be golden but I think In his write-up there was only wiring high level left and right rears...

Thanks for any suggestions !!!

Option 1

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If I were you, I'd just tap into the speaker wires in the rear driver side door sill (check those wiring diagrams!) as I didn't want to tear into the dash etc. Your call on this one. I really wouldn't bother going into the tailgate, as you have to run the wires up to the top of the tailgate, through the grommet thing, and back down towards your sub location. I've never heard of a sub amp using 4 inputs, so maybe someone else on here can advise. I'd see if you can't just use two channels.
 
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I had an amazon credit and Figured it would take up less room than the longer Rockford fosgate I have... So all of your help and prewires I ran ahead of time are out the door...

I know I can follow antmans thread to instal... But the issue is that this speaker also has the option to tap into the fronts.... So once again I am lost... (Shocker!)

And since I have to pull apart the dash to mount my cb and switches ill just tap into the wires at the head unit...

And to add to my confusion is that I have read way too much on party mode... So "i think" if I use the rear hatch wires to tap then the sub will only be one with party mode on which is great for tailgating but for daily driving if I have party mode off then I will only have use of front and rear doors and then no sub and no tailgate.

Maybe ill just tap into the rears like the original plan.... It's going to take me awhile to rip the dash apart so maybe some with a Similar unit can chime in.


But I really appreciate the time you have taken to help me out!
:rockon:
 
The only reason it has high level inputs for front and rear is so you can fade the speakers without affecting the sub.
If you leave your Fader setting on the HU centered, use whatever input is easiest to get to (like I used in my writeup). If you keep the HU faded towards the front, use the front speaker wires, and conversely for the rear.

No biggie!
 
You kind of answered your own question, given the example in the diagram, this is the scenario antman used and you should too. the speaker wires are the "high" level output. it doesn't benefit to tap in to tweeters as they do not receive the low frequencies that the sub uses.
 

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