Preventive maintenance - am I missing some parts?

John7M7

John7M7

New member
Hi guys,

I drive a 2000 4Runner Limited, 4WD 3.4L V6.

I'm going to do some preventive maintenance soon, including:

- Replacing LBJ
- Replacing radiator
- Installing trans fluid cooler
- New fuel filter
- New air filter
- New oil filter
- New PCV valve
- New O2 sensor
- Flush power steering fluid
- Service the diff

I did my research, read many posts here, and will order the parts and bring them to my mechanics. I know, some stuff is easy, and while I can definitely change the air filter myself (I know, what a hero!), my abilities won't take me much further. I'm no mechanics and don't want to take any chances here.

Would you be willing to look at the parts I'm gonna order and tell me if I'm missing something? Maybe some bolts, or a specific hose I did not think of? I would highly appreciate the help!

Here's what's in my cart:

- Radiator: 16410-AZ011 (still not sure about the radiator I'll get, but let's put this one for the sake of the post)
Cap: 16401-20353
Upper hose: 16571-62070
Lower hose: 16572-62090
- Fuel Filter: 23300-62030
- Oil Filter: 90915-YZZD1
- Air Filter: 17801-07020
- Spark Plugs x6: 90919-01192
- Cable set: 19037-62010
- PCV Valve:12204-62010
- LBJ (right side): 43330-39585
- LBJ (left side): 43340-39465


Also, a couple extra questions:

1/ Should I also change the Upper Ball Joints while I'm at it?

2/ Is there a difference between OEM and NGK spark plugs? I can basically score a set of NGK dual grounds for free, and the blue wire kit. I read on the forum that some people lost MPG after transitioning to NGK, is it a thing? I'm very worried about my MPG, since it's now around 12.

3/ About the oxygen sensor... would that one do? Part 89465-39855
I'm in CA but leaving in June, and my truck was initially sold in Illinois if that matter.
Anything else I need on top of the sensor?


Thank you very much for your help, and sorry for the stupid questions!
 
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The PCV valve grommet is likely to come apart on you, either way you should probably replace it though. The O2 sensor is unnecessary unless yours aren't working.
 
They say to clean the MAF sensor and throttle valve while you have the intake off for the spark plugs.

NGK plugs are good.

Change transfer case oil.

Change both diff oil, I think that would be included in the diff service you mention.

Flush transmission.

Grease zerks.

I hear UBJ's are a pain to replace and I never hear of them failing especially if you are stock and don't drive crazy stuff.
 
IsaiahC said:
The PCV valve grommet is likely to come apart on you, either way you should probably replace it though. The O2 sensor is unnecessary unless yours aren't working.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I'll add the grommet to my cart!
Good to know for the 02 sensor.

Mark_BC said:
They say to clean the MAF sensor and throttle valve while you have the intake off for the spark plugs.

NGK plugs are good.

Change transfer case oil.

Change both diff oil, I think that would be included in the diff service you mention.

Flush transmission.

Grease zerks.

I hear UBJ's are a pain to replace and I never hear of them failing especially if you are stock and don't drive crazy stuff.
Click to expand...

I'm planning on flushing the transmission, and yes the diff oil is included. Good to know for the UBJ!

The transfer case oil is a good idea, I'll add that one too as long as I'm doing the rest.

I will have them take a look at the throttle and MAF, and as far as the zerks go, I just learned a new word (English isn't my main language)! ;)

Thanks!
 
Also, can someone confirm me that this is the red/pink long life coolant I should use for the radiator? And how much would I need? I found conflicting info online.

Super Long Life Cool - Toyota (00272-SLLC2)
 
NGKs ARE OEM. The truck came with NGKs on one side and Densos on the other. The dealers only sell Densos as replcaement, probably because Denso is a Toyota sibsidiary.

I have run only NGKs for seventeen years and 170k because they have them at NAPA around the corner and the dealer is 20 miles away and I try to never go there. NGKs work just fine.

On the O2 sensor, as a 2000, you need to be sure whether you have Cali. emissions or Federal emissions. If Cali emissions, you need an A/F sensor in front.

The part number you gave is for the rear O2 sensor on a Federal rig. There really is no reason to change a rear O2 sensor unless you have a code associated with it. And if you have a Cali. rig, it's the wrong sensor. Wire length will be wrong, very bad if too short.

The front sensor is a different story. They can start to degrade about 80k and deliver declining fuel economy and performance thereafter, so changing one as P/M if you think it might be original is reasonable.

What is not reasonable is the prices Toyota charges for them. You can get the same OEM Denso sensors on Amazon or Rockauto.com for far less. Look up the Denso part number here: Oxygen / AFR Sensors - Underdog Racing Development and then buy wherever is cheapest.

Post back if you don't know if you have a Cali emmissions rig or not.
 
TheDurk said:
NGKs ARE OEM. The truck came with NGKs on one side and Densos on the other. The dealers only sell Densos as replcaement, probably because Denso is a Toyota sibsidiary.

I have run only NGKs for seventeen years and 170k because they have them at NAPA around the corner and the dealer is 20 miles away and I try to never go there. NGKs work just fine.

On the O2 sensor, as a 2000, you need to be sure whether you have Cali. emissions or Federal emissions. If Cali emissions, you need an A/F sensor in front.

The part number you gave is for the rear O2 sensor on a Federal rig. There really is no reason to change a rear O2 sensor unless you have a code associated with it. And if you have a Cali. rig, it's the wrong sensor. Wire length will be wrong, very bad if too short.

The front sensor is a different story. They can start to degrade about 80k and deliver declining fuel economy and performance thereafter, so changing one as P/M if you think it might be original is reasonable.

What is not reasonable is the prices Toyota charges for them. You can get the same OEM Denso sensors on Amazon or Rockauto.com for far less. Look up the Denso part number here: Oxygen / AFR Sensors - Underdog Racing Development and then buy wherever is cheapest.

Post back if you don't know if you have a Cali emmissions rig or not.
Click to expand...

First, thank you for this detailed explanation. As a matter of fact, I do not know which model I have, could you tell me how to find out about it? My truck was initially sold in Illinois (I have the original window sticker) so I would tend to believe it's not the Cali emission... is it that simple?

Also, out of curiosity, why did they come from the factory with 2 different brands of spark plugs equipped?
 
Last edited:
Check out this thread. You might find the shared information helpful.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/221201-3rd-gen-4runner-preventative-maintenance.html

Since you're obviously a DIY mechanic like many of us on here, check out all the videos that are available to use as a tutorial:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/217550-3rd-gen-toyota-4runner-diy-videos.html

Or, you could just visit the YouTube channel [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I started together:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC9EMiD9KPy61kJ6hdXcbjxA

Happy Wrenching!
 
John7M7 said:
First, thank you for this detailed explanation. As a matter of fact, I do not know which model I have, could you tell me how to find out about it? My truck was initially sold in Illinois (I have the original window sticker) so I would tend to believe it's not the Cali emission... is it that simple?

Also, out of curiosity, why did they come from the factory with 2 different brands of spark plugs equipped?
Click to expand...

Legend has it that Toyota wanted two plug suppliers and the two heads were made in different factories so Denso went in one side and NGK in the other.

Cali rigs have two cats; Federals have one. In 2000, Cali.s were sold all over the country. Look at the upper left corner of the emissions tag under the hood. CALI will sat "EFI, A/F S, TWC(2), HO2S or similar. Fed will say EFI, HO2S (2), TWC or similar. Post a pic if you are in doubt.
 
TheDurk said:
Legend has it that Toyota wanted two plug suppliers and the two heads were made in different factories so Denso went in one side and NGK in the other.

Cali rigs have two cats; Federals have one. In 2000, Cali.s were sold all over the country. Look at the upper left corner of the emissions tag under the hood. CALI will sat "EFI, A/F S, TWC(2), HO2S or similar. Fed will say EFI, HO2S (2), TWC or similar. Post a pic if you are in doubt.
Click to expand...


Thanks a lot, I will look it up tonight ;)
 
UnderFire said:
It's a good thing to replace the thermostat and hoses when you do a radiator as well.
Click to expand...

...as well as the thermostat gasket (Fel-Pro 35445.)

Make sure the thermostat jiggle valve is at 6pm position.

Also, I would drain and refill the trans fluid instead of a full flush. When hot, 4QT's will come out. Repeat this every 3K miles 3 times total and you are good.

When I did my maintenance I also included new (OEM) inner and outer tie rods. Also don't forget to check the brake fluid amount and quality and replace if necessary. Ditto with power steering fluid. Mine was so black it was not letting any light thru when I drained it into a clear plastic bottle.

Also replace your rear diff breather, for a peace of mind. Some say if it gets rusted and clogged it might cause the rear axle seals to bust, that would be a $1000 job when you can replace a $10 part and be done with it.
 
Brake fluid flush. I personally didn't replace my PCV valve. I just cleaned it good.

I think everything else is good. Maybe spark plugs, spark plug wires. Maybe fuel filter.
 
TheDurk said:
Legend has it that Toyota wanted two plug suppliers and the two heads were made in different factories so Denso went in one side and NGK in the other.

Cali rigs have two cats; Federals have one. In 2000, Cali.s were sold all over the country. Look at the upper left corner of the emissions tag under the hood. CALI will sat "EFI, A/F S, TWC(2), HO2S or similar. Fed will say EFI, HO2S (2), TWC or similar. Post a pic if you are in doubt.
Click to expand...



I have the federal version, so my part number should be 234-4162 according to the URD website.
Thank you very much for the guidelines!
 
Last question, as far as coolant goes, I want to stick to the Toyota one.

Should I go for:

- Toyota Genuine Fluid 00272-1LLAC-01 Long Life Coolant - 1 Gallon
or
- Toyota Genuine Fluid 00272-SLLC2 Long Life Coolant - 1 Gallon

I'd say the 00272-SLLC2, and I'd need three of these right (the 3rd one being basically a "spare")?
 
A lot of absolutely excellent info in this thread!

I consider myself unlucky, so I tend to get pretty aggressive with the PM. Still, I would not replace the O2 sensors without them malfunctioning because they won't ever actually leave you stranded.
 
I never seen different "Toyota long life" coolants. I could be wrong. Stop over thinking!! Go to the dealer and get Toyota red long life coolant straight. It's about $20-30. Which you get 2 gallons from after mixing with distilled water.

Also maybe get new thermostat if you'd like.
 
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