Preventive maintenance - am I missing some parts?

[TheDurk]

I never seen different "Toyota long life" coolants. I could be wrong. Stop over thinking!! Go to the dealer and get Toyota red long life coolant straight. It's about $20-30. Which you get 2 gallons from after mixing with distilled water.

Also maybe get new thermostat if you'd like.

The Red is the Long Lifeand is the first on the list. Thesecond is the Super Long Life which is the pink pre-diluted stuff which is a more advanced technology. Most of us prefer the Red which came on the truck from the factory, and allows you to raise your level of concentrate, so that if you flush with water, you can compensate for the leftover 100% H2O in the engine and ends up being cheaper.

So, the top one, but both will work.

 

[TheDurk]

A lot of absolutely excellent info in this thread!

I consider myself unlucky, so I tend to get pretty aggressive with the PM. Still, I would not replace the O2 sensors without them malfunctioning because they won't ever actually leave you stranded.

I agree with you on the rear, but the front sensor can degrade and hurt performance and fuel economy as they go beyond 80k or so, even though they don't throw a code. Please read:

4x4Wire - Tech: Time to Replace the O2 Sensor on your 3rd Gen Toyota?

Is it time to replace the O2 Sensor on your 3rd generation Toyota with the 3.4L V-6 or 2.7L 4 cylinder engine? In this case the trusty "Check Engine" light may not be the best guide to tell you when this is necessary. I had noticed that my gas mileage had consistently dropped at least 10% or, about 2 mpg, without the usual explanation of winter oxygenated gasoline or any other symptoms. The Check Engine light had not come on, and I couldn't see any changes on the O2 Sensor voltage swing pattern using my OBDII scanner. So how does one know when it's time to replace this rather expensive sensor?

===============================================
Conclusion
Based on other's experiences with declining gas mileage posted in the 4x4wire Toyota Forums, and a service manager recommendation, the O2 sensor does need to be replaced about every 75,000 miles to keep your Toyota running in optimum condition. It a fairly simple process to do and something anyone who likes to perform their own maintenance and service can do.

While the service manager's recommendation does require salt, there are plenty of cases where swapping the 02 sensor improved engine performance.

 

[Co4Fun]

Hi guys,



I drive a 2000 4Runner Limited, 4WD 3.4L V6.



I'm going to do some preventive maintenance soon, including:



- Replacing LBJ

- Replacing radiator

- Installing trans fluid cooler

- New fuel filter

- New air filter

- New oil filter

- New PCV valve

- New O2 sensor

- Flush power steering fluid

- Service the diff



I did my research, read many posts here, and will order the parts and bring them to my mechanics. I know, some stuff is easy, and while I can definitely change the air filter myself (I know, what a hero!), my abilities won't take me much further. I'm no mechanics and don't want to take any chances here.



Would you be willing to look at the parts I'm gonna order and tell me if I'm missing something? Maybe some bolts, or a specific hose I did not think of? I would highly appreciate the help!



Here's what's in my cart:



- Radiator: 16410-AZ011 (still not sure about the radiator I'll get, but let's put this one for the sake of the post)

Cap: 16401-20353

Upper hose: 16571-62070

Lower hose: 16572-62090

- Fuel Filter: 23300-62030

- Oil Filter: 90915-YZZD1

- Air Filter: 17801-07020

- Spark Plugs x6: 90919-01192

- Cable set: 19037-62010

- PCV Valve:12204-62010

- LBJ (right side): 43330-39585

- LBJ (left side): 43340-39465





Also, a couple extra questions:



1/ Should I also change the Upper Ball Joints while I'm at it?



2/ Is there a difference between OEM and NGK spark plugs? I can basically score a set of NGK dual grounds for free, and the blue wire kit. I read on the forum that some people lost MPG after transitioning to NGK, is it a thing? I'm very worried about my MPG, since it's now around 12.



3/ About the oxygen sensor... would that one do? Part 89465-39855

I'm in CA but leaving in June, and my truck was initially sold in Illinois if that matter.

Anything else I need on top of the sensor?





Thank you very much for your help, and sorry for the stupid questions!

Litererally just did all this in the past two months (except O2's...I'd skip those too) but also rear seals and full brakes. (And some other mods like diff breather extension and longer rear coils...not PM.)

The only other thing I'd do while you are at it is a good throttle body (I'd take it all the way off and tighten cables after) and MAF clean. Also check your vacuum and other hoses and replace or clamp as needed.

Those things coupled with PCV and fuel filter and CEL went off and has stayed off and she runs really good!

Oh, and if you want even more extra credit also hit al your grease zerks...u's etc., clean out your heater fan under the passenger side dash. And you could do a full brake bleed.

And on your UCA's...nah unless there's and issue or you want to mod.

 

[Co4Fun]

Oh and on that pcv grommet be careful getting that out it's probably brittle. If you do the throttle body this will be a little easier with it and the cables out of the way. I "sawed" mine while it was still in with a small xacto which helped and then tried to pull it out with small pliers and a lever tool down on the inside lip. Even so it did crumble and one piece went down in there but I was able to get it with my little grabber tool. It's flat so if any pieces drop in there you can (and obviously should) extract them. Just know that can happen. I put a little grease on the new one but after 100k miles that's just what happens to plastic. For me it was more that hose was cracked on the edge so I got a full kit with grommet, hose and valve...oem on eBay $20.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[flyfishinguy]

just did my pcv valve and grommet. it disintegrated. nothing a pick tool and shop vac can fix.

 

[John7M7]

Thank you guys, I passed my order for all the parts that have been discussed in this thread, and I am now negotiating with my local mechanic for a price on labor.

Hopefully this will keep the beast running for a while!

 

[mtbtim]

Thank you guys, I passed my order for all the parts that have been discussed in this thread, and I am now negotiating with my local mechanic for a price on labor.

Hopefully this will keep the beast running for a while!

Dude, turn a wrench and save yourself some doe. Everything you've listed you want to do is pretty straightforward.

 

[ZionXIX]

Use that labor money to buy more tools!

 

[Kbuch1]

What Zion said!
Nothing you have mentioned is beyond a beginning wrencher.
Nothing!
Makes you feel real good and you will lea n and know your rig better for it.

 

[Co4Fun]

I'm with you guys too. This forum helped me so much this winter and it has been really rewarding to have done all this myself and I sure did learn a LOT. I saved a lot of money even though it doesn't feel like it since parts are expensive enough.

The only thing I'd admit though is that it gets frustrating if you're in a hurry. I'm lucky as this is my toy (pun intended) and it's winter and it could be offline for weeks at a time. But, if it's your daily driver and you need it that can change the equation and while marathon wrenching weekends can be fun they can also force you to burn out or hurry and make mistakes. Also, there is the space consideration. Working on a rig out in an apartment complex parking lot in frigid temps puts a damper on things too.

So not sure what the poster's situation is and I'm with you all in spirit for sure but just having been in these other situations at different points in my life I do think there can be a time to hire the mech. That said I do agree if you can...dive in or plan it out with one or two of these things a weekend over a longer period of time since none sound critical.

Oh and...depending on your mech they would prob still do the work but a lot of them don't love you coming in with a box of parts from amazon...they want you buying them from them. And maybe that's fine but watch out for true OEM then because likely their supplier is Napa...again fine for some stuff but not LBJ's for example. I learned the hard way.

 

[John7M7]

My mechanic is fine with me bringing all the parts.

As far as doing it myself, we live in a condo and I don't have the space to work on the truck in the parking lot. Especially since being a beginner, it would take me forever. Doing it with the truck on the street isn't an option neither.

I might do a thing or two like sparks plug and wires, since that does not require much in term of space around the truck and time, but for LBJs, servicing the differentials, etc, that won't happen.

 

[stever1000]

Great thread, I will add those things to my list too.
Time to get a US mailbox so I can use RockAuto