Problems installing diff drop

[snow junky]

I went from breaking CVs in the snow and in the air with 31's (without steering) to being able to bounce and catch with 35s with most steering without breaking them.



I used to think it was a waste as well but tried it out and it's been wonderful, people seem to get mixed results but I've gone through close to 10 CVs before I made the switch and haven't broken any putting a serious beat down on them since.



Running 2 1/4 drop btw

I had a 1in diff drop. The pucks are 1 in. It only drops the diff about half of the puck thickness, it just tilts the clamshell diff. So maybe half inch of drop. Still burnt through boots. Stretching the boot and sas was the only fix. Half inch less angle sure isn’t Gona make cv much stronger.


How do you have 2.25in diff drop???? Do you mean lift??

 

[Kotrin]

This has been beat to death a lot. Some get benefits from it, while other's dont. I've put one in on all of my Toyota vehicles i've lifted, 2014 4Runner, 2013 Tacoma 2000 4Runner 1997 4Runner. Prior to installing one on my first 4Runner (1997), I neglected doing it and instantly had to replace my CV's. Installed the differential drop dearing the CV instlalation and never experienced it again even wheeling hard. Since than I've done them on all my rigs and haven't had a boot or CV problem. I also know of people who have had problems with them. It seem's to me that it affects the people who over turn the coils and extend the system pass its recommendation. I've cranked my coil-over's to experiment and it's increased the angle horrible. I run the 3" lift right now and haven't seen a horrible angle even when I maxed out the drop/binding it along with more.

So what I say is, install it if you feel the benefits are good or experience benefits before from it. If you haven't had good things from it, than don't. Just my two cents..

 

[TravThePro]

I had a 1in diff drop.
How do you have 2.25in diff drop???? Do you mean lift??

Firstly, I'm jealous of that SAS!!
If I ever find the time I'd love to run the SAS, IFS limits you to 35s (Not big enough for the snow wheeling I do)

It's still just the tilt-a-half-ass drop but with a 2 1/4 instead of a 1, it still doesn't do the full drop of that but it really lined things up a lot better.

Boots last a lot longer compared to where mine were at, my CV angles were REALLY bad though.

My CVs also didn't break the way you see other people break them. It would bind so hard it would bend the mounts to the diff and ended up ripping bolts off for the perpendicular mounts after the 4th or 5th snap.

After it bound like crazy it would force smash a spin and bend shit like crazy which then kept turning to smash the CV out of the CV housing straight up or slightly sideways. I ended up with a CV inside of my springs more than once...

These are problems that happen when you lift it past what you're supposed to and then add a locker to the front diff, I think if you add a locker is where you can really see the benefit of the diff drop. It doesn't matter that much otherwise...

Hopefully this helps give you an insite, I have no idea if anyone else will have repeat results compared to me either...

 

[MountainBiker]

View attachment 269773View attachment 269775
So it's looking like the round thing is the culprit. Looks like a regulator to me but idk what it is. It's actually touching the frame now and won't let me push the diff towards the rear that little amount to line up my holes.

**Pictures show the right being the ground/down**

I also have the same interference as you. I was able to get the spacers in easy enough, but I don't like the ADD actuator being right on the frame crossmember. So did you continue with it this way, or did you do some other fix, such as replace the rubber diff mount bushings?

 

[k2damfc]

Yea I didn’t like it but your diff doesn’t really move so it’s not a big deal. If diff and frame moved apart from each other at any point I would not of done it but so far so good