Is this the correct way to use a floor jack and jack stands?

lawless97

New member
Lifting the front end a bit to do a power steering flush and I bought a Die Hard 2 ton floor jack and some jack stands, which I have never used before. Is that hole the correct place in the front/crossbeam to position the floor jack? The diagram and videos I watched seem to indicate yes, but I lifted it about an inch a few times to practice and it looks like that hole has now bent some, as shown in the second image. Secondly, is that the right position for the floor jack or do I need to rotate that top piece 90 degrees? Seems like when I lower the truck it won't be quite flush on the saddle and will sit on the ears of the jack, or possibly even just one of the ears. Maybe I didn't get the right stands. Lastly, I noticed when I turned the floor jack handle very slowly counterclockwise to release pressure and drop the truck, it comes down pretty fast. Is that also normal? Worried about it dropping down onto those floor jacks too hard and punching holes into my frame or something. Even raising them as close as possible, there is about half an inch of space between the jacks and the frame before I can start to lower the floor jack.

Thanks for any help with what are likely very basic questions. Just worried about damaging the car doing something stupid. FYI I'm following this T4RGarage video.

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... Lastly, I noticed when I turned the floor jack handle very slowly counterclockwise to release pressure and drop the truck, it comes down pretty fast. Is that also normal? Worried about it dropping down onto those floor jacks too hard and punching holes into my frame or something. ...

You do want it to lower it slowly onto the jack stands.

It may be you need to get used to how your new jack responds, or it needs a 'break-in period', etc.

My 30 yr old jack can be a bit finicky as well.

There's other options too. HF sells a pretty neat bottle jack/jack stand all-in-one unit, and a beefy air/hydraulic jack you don't have to pump.

And there's always ramps.
 
yeah you are watching right video, but using the wrong floor jack.
What's wrong with the floor jack? It admittedly is the cheapest they had, but it can handle 4k lbs and the 4runner weighs 4500 lbs so I figured it would be fine since I'm not lifting the entire weight.
 
What's wrong with the floor jack? It admittedly is the cheapest they had, but it can handle 4k lbs and the 4runner weighs 4500 lbs so I figured it would be fine since I'm not lifting the entire weight.

The lifting plate on your jack is very small in diameter/surface area compared to most all floor jacks, the lifting point on the skid plate was designed for much bigger lifting plate, at least 2 to 3 time bigger than yours.

Your's will still work if you use a solid wood block to increase the contact area.
 
1) My frame sits on the ears as you call them and it’s never been an issue. I just center the stands as much as possible under the rail.

2) Getting the jack to lower slowly takes practice. I learned over time to sloooowly turn the handle with the right grip and pressure to keep it from turning too quickly.

What’s the rating on the jack stands? First set I bought could handle the weight but weren’t tall enough.
 
The lifting plate on your jack is very small in diameter/surface area compared to most all floor jacks, the lifting point on the skid plate was designed for much bigger lifting plate, at least 2 to 3 time bigger than yours.

Your's will still work if you use a solid wood block to increase the contact area.
Thank you very much for this insight. I'm returning it and will get a new jack and jack stands to handle this truck. I just didn't want to spend $200 on some of the recommended jacks I've seen on this forum.
 
You're asking all the right questions:

1. Jack Placement: That hole in the crossbeam isn't necessarily designed as a jack point. It looks like it might have bent slightly, which isn't ideal. Check your owner's manual or look for reinforced jack points—usually near the control arms or along the pinch welds.

2. Jack Orientation: If the saddle isn’t making solid contact with the frame and is resting on the "ears," you might want to rotate it 90 degrees to get a better grip. The goal is even weight distribution on a solid metal surface.

3. Lowering Speed: Many floor jacks lower quickly, even with slow turns. Try turning the handle in tiny increments for more control. If needed, you can also gently "tap" the handle to let it lower in very small steps.

For lifting in a shop setting, electric scissor lift tables are a great alternative to jacks for more stability, but a good floor jack and jack stands will work fine as long as they’re used correctly.
 
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