Problems with changing my timing belt...

[97blkt4r]

Oooh yeah, I know what your talking about. Yeah, when I put it on, I made sure it slid on around the key portion.

 

[97blkt4r]

Anyone know if adjusting everything the way I talked about in one of my previous post would work, or would this damage something?

 

[1blink]

To adjust everything correctly should I rotate everything so that the crank shaft is at TDC, then take of the belt and rotate each cam shaft one at a time making each of them at TDC, then put the belt back on?

Yes, this is the way I would approach it

 

[KidVermicious]

Anyone know if adjusting everything the way I talked about in one of my previous post would work, or would this damage something?

That's how I would do it.

For what it's worth, I've done the front end on 22RE motors a couple times now. It sounds like the 5VZE has the same wimpy little water pump bolts, they love to snap and lots of torque wrenches aren't accurate in that range. I now use a smear of good RTV like Permatex Right Stuff in addition to the gasket, and I take those bolts to just snug enough, like finger tight plus half a turn. If it dribbles, give it another half a turn. I haven't broken a bolt or had a leaky pump since I started doing it that way.

 

[shootmymime]

You won't damage anything if your timing is off and you crank the engine. Our engines are called non interference engines. No parts will touch and destroy each other if you mess up. It just won't start. That's what's nice about Toyota!

 

[97blkt4r]

So it took a couple tries, but I finally got the timing to line up and I put it all back together. Last night I started it up and had no leaks, which I was happy about, but after driving for about 10-15min I parked and I noticed some noises. I checked it out and it was hard to tell, but it sounded like it was coming from the timing belt area. Today with the car cold once again, I started it up and it sounded normal. After letting it ideal for about 10-15min the noise returned. There's probably a lot that it could be, but what would you guess is wrong?

Here's a short video of it after it has warmed-up:
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/Fpb9TFSlzwA" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[LittleCaesar]

How tight did you put on the drive belts? Loosen all three just a little, then restart. It could be a bad bearing in the fan bracket (holds the fan clutch) or idler adjuster for the AC.

 

[97blkt4r]

The belts were tighten to roughly the same as before (going off how much the belt moves when pushing down on it between two pulleys), there is give, but not a lot, maybe a 1/4 inch. Could be it, but I think (although I'm not positive) that it's coming from behind the cover, the area where timing belt is. The fan/ac would make sense though since it seems to occur after it has warmed-up.

 

[LittleCaesar]

The PS belt should be tightest, with about 1/4"deflection. ALT belt should be about 3/8" deflection. AC should be 3/8" to 1/2". I'd start here and work my way behind the cover. If the belts are too tight, bearings can go south fast, real fast. I learned the hard way 20 years ago.

Change out the #1 idler pulley?

 

[97blkt4r]

The PS belt should be tightest, with about 1/4"deflection. ALT belt should be about 3/8" deflection. AC should be 3/8" to 1/2". I'd start here and work my way behind the cover. If the belts are too tight, bearings can go south fast, real fast. I learned the hard way 20 years ago.

Change out the #1 idler pulley?

That's good to know, I'll have to take a look at that.

I didn't change the pulley, only the belts, bearings and tensioner. Are you asking if I changed it, or suggesting that I should change it?

 

[LittleCaesar]

No, just asking if you changed the idler that sits in between and a little south of the cam sprockets.

 

[97blkt4r]

Well I made a mistake. After putting everything together and being worried about the noise, thinking that something might be installed wrong, I took it to a shop. I had them disassemble and reasemble everything and asked if they could remove the two broken bolts and put in the new crank and cam gaskets on (which I didn't replace when I did the job). $280 for them to redo the timing belt and in the middle of the job I get a call saying if I want them to also do the gaskets and remove the bolts it would be another $400! No way I'm spending that much for that, so I declined. They said everything was installed correctly from before, and that they're not sure what the noise is, but that maybe it's with the A/C. So basically, I just wasted $280 to find out what I already knew. Lesson learned.

I did notice when I did the timing belt that the A/C compressor pulley did have a lot of play in it, so I took a video of it:
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/Oca7ejwdp4s" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

But I thought for sure that the noise was coming from behind the timing belt cover so I didn't think much of it. But now I'm thinking this might be what is actually causing the noise. What do you all think?

 

[LittleCaesar]

I was wondering the end result. I don't really know how much deflection the AC pulley should have; maybe someone else can answer.

I'd either get a mechanic's stethoscope to try and pinpoint the noise or just remove the AC belt and crank it back up to see if the noise returns. Thus you can then rule out the AC as the culprit or not.

 

[kball]

I'd do what LC suggested and take off the A/C belt. If the noise goes away I would look at the idler pulley first. They are known for going bad and making noise. I'm sure the clutch is supposed to have some play and it's probably normal.