PSA: 2015 TE Icon Stage 1 w/Overland 3" springs PHANTOM NOISES EXPLAINED!!!

[kapp_badbloodz]

Here is a link to the previous thread. I think a more coherent post is in order since I was freaking out in the last one.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...ential-issue-s-well-question.html#post2186993


Hello everyone,

There have been several questions regarding 3" rear Overland springs being installed without an aftermarket rear bumper. Well, I have them installed and I think I have been experiencing every ass pain you can have without having a rear bumper installed. After some hysterics followed by some critical thinking; I have figured out the cause of some of the "issues".

I made a quick youtube video after I had discovered what is causing most of the phantom noises. My truck isnt dying and I am 95% positive your truck is not (and will not) either.

Check it out:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdtGvGOVZzI


In summary:

1) You do not need an aftermarket bumper to have 3" overland springs
2) You MAY experience some rattling noise because you lack said bumper
3) You MAY experience the track bar contacting the KDSS piston bracket that connects to the rear sway bar
4) The contact is extremely minimal and does not adversely affect the track bar or bracket (in my opinion). But I do believe you should take steps to prevent it as much as possible. Changing driving habits, avoiding specific terrain, and being aware of what causes contact and limiting it are all great ways to avoid unwanted contact until you install a bumper or new track bar.


I hope this helps someone who is undecided on the springs or is having similar issues as I am.

Thanks for reading.

Corey

 

[kapp_badbloodz]

Video may be temporarily unavailable because YouTube asked if I wanted it stabilized and I agreed to their nonsense.

 

[4RnR Grl]

I second all of this. I have the 3" overland springs as well. No aftermarket rear bumper (yet). I heard it the first day of install. Removed the spare and zip tied the chain. Still rattled. Got a bigger/heavier spare, still rattled. Just chalked it up to me being crazy. Loaded the truck down for the Cove in October. Holy mother of god.... the sound went away completely. So I deduced that the weight mattered for the overland springs, which makes sense. (I believe I also mentioned this to [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] when we did my rear diff mod). As soon as I got home and emptied the truck, the rattle came back. I hear it mostly as you said when there are mild deviations in the road, but I hear it particularly well when I go up and down that horrible rounded curb at the end of my driveway. If I had paid more attention, I could have told you I figured it was the lack of weight.

[emoji48]

 

[Magnetic4R]

Well, I'll be installing these today. Hopefully it goes smooth. Any tips on install? I'm hearing some saying it's a pain and require traction bars to get them in and others didn't have any issues and only require the sway, brake line bracket and shock removal. Any ways, I hope having the 3rd row seat will minimize the noise as I know it would bother me quite a bit hearing the noise.

 

[kapp_badbloodz]

Well, I'll be installing these today. Hopefully it goes smooth. Any tips on install? I'm hearing some saying it's a pain and require traction bars to get them in and others didn't have any issues and only require the sway, brake line bracket and shock removal. Any ways, I hope having the 3rd row seat will minimize the noise as I know it would bother me quite a bit hearing the noise.

My tip would be is don't even try to install them without removing the rear upper control arms. When you do, they will swing up with some pressure so be aware. Additionally, remove the bottom most connection (against the axle) because I don't know what direction it would swing if you removed the tops. Its also easier to pull down instead pushing up. Lastly, try removing all stock springs then remove one rear UCA at a time. Do that side then install the other. If you can't get articulation needed then remove the second UCA. But support the axle so it doesn't put pressure on the drive shaft/Tcase(?). Once you get the first spring in the other side is easier.

After install and the truck is drivable, go over a few bumps and do some hard stops and accelerations from a roll. This will help the springs settle into their final resting position. You head two loud THUDS and they're in.

 

[4RnR Grl]

Well, I'll be installing these today. Hopefully it goes smooth. Any tips on install? I'm hearing some saying it's a pain and require traction bars to get them in and others didn't have any issues and only require the sway, brake line bracket and shock removal. Any ways, I hope having the 3rd row seat will minimize the noise as I know it would bother me quite a bit hearing the noise.

We had no problems, just make sure to completely articulate the rear to get the new springs in. I'm guessing without KDSS it's a bit easier.

 

[Magnetic4R]

well, got it install, had to articulate all the way and inch by inch force the coil in. Only removed the shocks, abs and brake line, and sway bar link. Took a little bit longer then i wanted to but got it in.

 

[4Rager]

I am familiar with people having issues with the track bar, but out of curiosity how is it affected by the rear bumper?

 

[JSparky]

Thanks for posting, good info here for the community. At first I was thinking your springs weren't seated properly, but your conclusion does make sense considering these springs are dual-rate/progressive. Still odd, but I could see it.

To add some weight I'd vote for considering a nice fridge/drawer system. With the kids on the way this could be a great way to keep supplies on-hand, friends of mine keep formula and snacks back there at all times. Either way, goodluck and thanks for taking the time out for us.

 

[kapp_badbloodz]

Thanks for posting, good info here for the community. At first I was thinking your springs weren't seated properly, but your conclusion does make sense considering these springs are dual-rate/progressive. Still odd, but I could see it.

To add some weight I'd vote for considering a nice fridge/drawer system. With the kids on the way this could be a great way to keep supplies on-hand, friends of mine keep formula and snacks back there at all times. Either way, goodluck and thanks for taking the time out for us.

Good call on the fridge and drawer system. I may do this since its practical in how you related it to the kids coming along. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[awpsome]

Can you guys post a side picture of your t4r to show rake you get with an unweighted or weighted rear end with these coils?

I am still on the edge with determining to go 3" or 2"

Thanks!

 

[kapp_badbloodz]

Can you guys post a side picture of your t4r to show rake you get with an unweighted or weighted rear end with these coils?

I am still on the edge with determining to go 3" or 2"

Thanks!

What suspension are you planning on running? The reason I ask is because the rake may vary especially if you are going with an adjustable front.

Mine is already adjusted. I installed the icon lift as is from factory with the 3" springs. Unadjusted it sat with about 2.5" of rear rake!!!! It was awful. I raised the front and now its around 1.25" of rake.

Pro advice: if you have an adjustable front suspension then raise it till it looks good. Level is fine but won't give you the best performance. You want slight rear rake in case you tow. Also, if you go with 3" springs and level the front to the rear THEN put on a rear bumper later... you will, more than likely, have to lower the front. This may mean another alignment.

Just my .02 lift it and make it how you want it. Its your truck. Just remember that the rear will be very high if and if you don't have adjustable fronts then it will look like a funny car with drag radials.