PSA: factory bump stop bolts are not very strong

[keph13]

Exhibit A:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/zdL4U1MNgAENxRj27

I'm installing the PlasticsGuy bump stops, and I had read online that the stock ones come from the factory with locktite applied, so when it continued to be stiff as I turned I thought it was normal. Instead I'm stuck with a broken bolt in a very inconvenient location. I'm open to ideas how to move forward!

 

[jrandom]

That sucks. Hit the leftovers with penetrating fluid such as Blaster for a day or two. Drill a small hole in the broken bolt, (optional, heat surrounding area) back it out with an easy-out reverse bit, chase threads with a tap to clean them out.

 

[keph13]

The problem is that the control arm is in the way - here's the location it came from:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/CZhCdYgFKRnVBTib9

I'm thinking I might be able to hit it from above? Or I have a dremel with a flexible hose if I can find the right bit for it.

 

[mrblah]

The problem is that the control arm is in the way - here's the location it came from:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/CZhCdYgFKRnVBTib9

I'm thinking I might be able to hit it from above? Or I have a dremel with a flexible hose if I can find the right bit for it.

You need to find a way to drill out the broken bolt yourself, or take it to a mechanic who can do it for you.

It's your car, your time, and your expense, so you can use whatever method or tool you want to extract that broken bolt..... (pick the right tool for the job or risk more damage)

You can try a dremel but ideally you need a steady hand when drilling out broken bolts..... not sure if a dremel will give you enough leverage or power, or whether they have dremel bits that can drill through harden steel (depending on grade of the bolt).

 

[jhguth]

a right angle drill should fit in there, and jack that corner so it has maximum droop

(and from pics i'm betting yours was just too rusty)

 

[ChrisJHarney]

The problem is that the control arm is in the way - here's the location it came from:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/CZhCdYgFKRnVBTib9

I'm thinking I might be able to hit it from above? Or I have a dremel with a flexible hose if I can find the right bit for it.

Google “right angle drill attachments chuck”. I’m assuming you have a cordless drill handy?

I have used both the DeWalt and the Milwaukee versions of this tool. I am recommending the units with actual chucks, not the ones that fit hex tip tools, because you will be hard pressed to find both a drill bit that short with a hex connection, AND a threader, and you may need both.

You may get lucky and only need a cheap extractor kit like they sell at Home Depot, but again, you’ll need a right angle attachment with a chuck.

Or, you can just buy a cordless right angle drill and have a very handy tool around the garage.

Bonus: There are a ton of useful videos out there with the proper technique for doing this if you haven’t done a bolt extraction before.

 

[keph13]

Good call on the chuck - I had already ordered a right angle adapter, but it was an impact style hex fitting and wouldn't have fit my extractor bits. Now I have the right thing coming tomorrow, so hopefully I'll have a happy update at some point.

 

[keph13]

Are there any other 2010 owners that can chime in on rust at this point? This is the second rust-related issue I've had, and my vehicle lived in Maryland until 2 years ago - I'm a little surprised that it's already having such serious problems.

 

[Runn4est]

Shameless plug here haha: https://www.4runnerfamily.com/2018/08/how-to-extract-sheared-bolt.html

I had the same happen on my 4th gen. If you have a welder, it could be a little easier than finagling a drill in there. Left hand drill bits would be a good buy though if you go that way.

 

[Runn4est]

Are there any other 2010 owners that can chime in on rust at this point? This is the second rust-related issue I've had, and my vehicle lived in Maryland until 2 years ago - I'm a little surprised that it's already having such serious problems.

I've snapped a bunch of bolts on my 08 that was first an Ohio truck, then VA and MD. This is despite the liberal use of PB Blaster. All the rust issues I have are typically with bolts, but not with structural areas. If you are worried, give your frame a healthy dose of Fluid Film.

 

[keph13]

I don't have a welder, unfortunately. I have a kit of left hand extraction bits coming tomorrow, so I guess I'll start there.

 

[CF_Machete]

Are there any other 2010 owners that can chime in on rust at this point? This is the second rust-related issue I've had, and my vehicle lived in Maryland until 2 years ago - I'm a little surprised that it's already having such serious problems.

Welcome to the North East, Road salt's a *****. I wash my truck every two weeks in winter and still get rust frozen bolts.

pb blast, heat and bolt extractors are your best bet now.

 

[FrenchToasty]

Welcome to the North East, Road salt's a *****. I wash my truck every two weeks in winter and still get rust frozen bolts.

pb blast, heat and bolt extractors are your best bet now.

"Dry heat" is all I have to deal with out here, what a pain in the ass, keep your salt and cold weather!
I still try to soak everything with kroil before I start wrenching, and things are still stiff

 

[CF_Machete]

"Dry heat" is all I have to deal with out here, what a pain in the ass, keep your salt and cold weather!
I still try to soak everything with kroil before I start wrenching, and things are still stiff

have fun snowboarding on flat sand and dodging scorpions

 

[Krayziekid]

You could just JBWeld the new bumpstop on lmao. That is what I did in my 4th gen when I upgraded to the Wheeler's Superbumps. Snapped a bolt right off when taking the old ones off.

Cleaned up the mounting surface, wiped everything down, and then used the highest strength JBWeld I could find. Stayed on there for almost 15k miles and had been through some super rough terrain. Never had a problem.

 

[Heavy_GD]

You could just JBWeld the new bumpstop on lmao..... Never had a problem.

 

[jrandom]

The problem is that the control arm is in the way - here's the location it came from:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/CZhCdYgFKRnVBTib9

I'm thinking I might be able to hit it from above? Or I have a dremel with a flexible hose if I can find the right bit for it.

Yeah I know the location. You just have to think creative. Like most failed hardware on the undercarriage, rarely is it ever a direct line to fix. :

I hit my undercarriage with film (I haven’t settled on any single one, Amsoils HD metal protector is in the lead) I also wash the undercarriage after every storm cycle, sometimes even during, cost ~$3.00 and takes less than 10 minutes. I do this religiously now, it only took 25 years to quit being lazy about it. I have had two other “Wasatch” trucks, my 3rd gen get uncomfortable rusty, and the other, my first an 89 Hilux, get seriously trashed from road salt. We are talking see-through door skin, undercarriage, the frame (rusty but solid), you name it.

I find it funny that there are so many rust complaints and it turns out all of them could be prevented with a little bit of maintenance. I mean seriously most of us took basic science classes in middle school, almost all metal corrodes in one way or another, what is this magical belief that it doesn’t occur on the undercarriage of a vehicle that is being bombarded with corrosive material? :shrug:

 

[DesertCanyons]

Siezed threads

That rusted frame looks terminal. Put that rig out of it's misery. Just take it out back and shoot it now.

Geeze, nothing in So Cal ever looks that bad. And no, I won't be boarding on sand. We have Mammoth Mountain for great snow within driving distance.

How are you going to remove the rust that's occurred all over the frame? It's worst at the weld lines. It needs some kind of brushing and painting to stop the rust. Paint inside that support bracket with spray paint too.

To fix the threads:
Consider cutting out the welded nut and the surrounding steel from the frame. Then weld on a new piece of steel plate under the support bracket with a nut welded on top of it.

Or drill out the nut at the center until it breaks off. Drill it out with successively larger bits until the hole is big enough to pass a new nut. Then install a new bolt welded to a plate, passing the new nut through the hole where the old nut used to be. Use a heavy hex bolt to replace it and install it with anti-seize paste on the threads.

I did this where a frame bolt was busted off by my mechanic on a uni-body frame on a 1995 Jeep GC. The nut was up inside the frame. It held the transmission skid plate on one side. I could lower the skid plate 1/2" so I welded the plate to the frame over the old nut with a new nut welded on underneath. For your bump stop you need the bolt above the flat plate.

Where the Toyota dealer overtightened the skid plate bolts doing their "free" oil change, I cut the old skid plate around the nut and threw it away. I'd worn the head off of the bolt trying to remove it with an impact wrench. I then turned the bolt using a chisel and hammer on the bolt head. The nut threads were left intact so I put the new RCI skid plates using the same OEM nuts.