Quality audio mod for $2500, makes sense?

BillSwan

New member
I'm not hardcore audiophile but I do like quality sound. Not necessarily loud, but good quality. I'm considering buying 2019 4Runner SR5 and modding whole sound system. I would feel comfortable spending up to let's say $2500 on that project.

Do you think it's workable? I don't know much about cabin noise, about factory sound dampening and if/how it could be improved. I think I could do all work myself so consider labor costs don't exist.
 
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Save your $2500. Buy a 2015 GX460 Luxury model. Enjoy better audio than you would get throwing $10k at the 4Runner.
 
I think that is definitely reasonable. There's plenty of threads about upgrading speakers. OEM Audio makes a complete plug and play system for around 1200, which would give you plenty of wiggle room for sound deadening. There's an entire thread on the OEM audio set up in this forum. Some 4x4 shops also have "display models" that you can listen to at the shop. Focal also makes plug and play speakers for 4runner as well.
 
$2500 is a pretty respectable budget. It helps to do some of the work yourself, but I feel like it might be a stretch to do it right if you had to pay an installer.

I kinda gave up on trying to take car audio to an “enthusiast level” because it’s far from an ideal environment when trying to build something that revolves around sound quality. That said, if you keep your expectations within reason and know where to spend the money, you can still get A LOT accomplished without going overboard.

The sound deadening portion of the setup is very labor intensive and you can save a lot doing this yourself. Depending on the vehicle, it could be one of the most important thing you can do to improve perceived sound quality and overall efficiency of the setup. A popular rule of thumb is to raise the volume 3db, it takes double the amplification power. Making a car quieter allows you to enjoy and hear more with less amplification. It could also make lesser equipment sound “bigger” than it really is, meaning you can get away with spending less on speaker and amps.

The two things that are a must have for me in a proper setup is sound deadening and tuning. Tuning you will need some type of DSP and RTA mic. I have accomplished far greater and more enjoyable results with cheaper audio equipment, sound deadening, and DSP, than with throwing a bunch of coin at expensive speakers and amps.

RTA = real time analyzer (microphone and software which allows you to tune the system, typically from your listening position)
DSP = digital signal processing (graphic and parametric eq)

I don’t like spending a ton of money on this stuff anymore so I use this free software called REW (Room EQ Wizard) and a $50 Behringer reference microphone (model# ecm8000)
REW - Room EQ Wizard Room Acoustics Software

There are newer systems out there, easier to use, more integrated as well, but they cost a few bucks.
YouTube
DM-RTA | AudioControl
 
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As someone who spent $5k on getting the exact system I wanted... get the OEM Audio+ system and spend the rest on sound deadening. My system was worth it for me but for 99% of people I think that's the way to go.
 
As someone who spent $5k on getting the exact system I wanted... get the OEM Audio+ system and spend the rest on sound deadening. My system was worth it for me but for 99% of people I think that's the way to go.

Did you get $1,699 package called "Reference 500" ?
 
While I generally build my own systems, I am going for the full kit with 1 sub and dedicated sub amp from oem audio. With sound deadening I’m expecting 2200 diy


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$2500 is a pretty respectable budget. It helps to do some of the work yourself, but I feel like it might be a stretch to do it right if you had to pay an installer.

I kinda gave up on trying to take car audio to an “enthusiast level” because it’s far from an ideal environment when trying to build something that revolves around sound quality. That said, if you keep your expectations within reason and know where to spend the money, you can still get A LOT accomplished without going overboard.

The sound deadening portion of the setup is very labor intensive and you can save a lot doing this yourself. Depending on the vehicle, it could be one of the most important thing you can do to improve perceived sound quality and overall efficiency of the setup. A popular rule of thumb is to raise the volume 3db, it takes double the amplification power. Making a car quieter allows you to enjoy and hear more with less amplification. It could also make lesser equipment sound “bigger” than it really is, meaning you can get away with spending less on speaker and amps.

The two things that are a must have for me in a proper setup is sound deadening and tuning. Tuning you will need some type of DSP and RTA mic. I have accomplished far greater and more enjoyable results with cheaper audio equipment, sound deadening, and DSP, than with throwing a bunch of coin at expensive speakers and amps.

RTA = real time analyzer (microphone and software which allows you to tune the system, typically from your listening position)
DSP = digital signal processing (graphic and parametric eq)

I don’t like spending a ton of money on this stuff anymore so I use this free software called REW (Room EQ Wizard) and a $50 Behringer reference microphone (model# ecm8000)
REW - Room EQ Wizard Room Acoustics Software

There are newer systems out there, easier to use, more integrated as well, but they cost a few bucks.
YouTube
DM-RTA | AudioControl

And herein lies the issue. You cannot take an oddly shaped metal box with hard glass surfaces, with wind and road noise and expect "hi-fi."

In addition, you have to split your attention between sound and the roadway. All that will take the "hi" out of hi-fi.

There is no car, regardless of the amount of money that you throw at it, that can provide proper sound while moving.

You can get pleasing sound but it won't be accurate - and certainly not in a 4R.
 
Bumbo is on my line of thinking. I love clean audio but just can't justify spending the coin some of these guys do. Especially on the severely diminishing returns we find in vehicles. There also there are better places to focus attention. I just got a Camry and a 4runner. For the Camry, the upgrade is just going to be dampening to start. I'm betting it'll be a considerable upgrade. The 4runner on the other hand is getting both.
How comfortable are you with custom fabrication? I'm currently looking at doing a custom set of 3-way components up front.
Dayton Reference 8" $110ish in front doors
Dayton Reference 3" $40ish in the dash
SEAS tweeters $40ish
Dayton DSP $140 I think.
I'll be using some old Eclipse amps I have but you can source very good amps for them at a good price if you look around. My subwoofer will be less than $200. I'm only at about $500-$550 so far. I use Rew and TruRTA and have a USB mic aleeady but as was mentioned, its affordable. When tuned, this system will be punching way above its weight class in sound quality. With only one 12" sub, I won't be entertaining the next county but will be louder than I can listen to for more than 10 seconds. If you can build your own enclosure and find amps for a reasonable price, you still have more than you need for dampening.
 
go with an OEM plus.. you could throw the most expensive name branded equipment all into a vehicle but if you dont have it tuned properly, it'll sound like shit and you'll regret it

OEM plus is tuned and half the price of your budget
 
I've upgraded the audio system in all 3 of my 4Runners, did all the work myself. Super worth it

Nice!! I have had a lot of systems. I have been back and forth while I’m waiting for my 2020 Army green Pro to come in. I did not touch my 17 Pro I’m trading in. Though about keeping it and adding audio system down the road but I want the newer stuff added to the 2020 Pro. Question on your system. Where did you put the sub in your 4runner? Your still using your factory headunit? If you don’t mind me asking just for all the audio stuff what was the total price. I see you did your own install. Thanks Don.
 
Nice!! I have had a lot of systems. I have been back and forth while I’m waiting for my 2020 Army green Pro to come in. I did not touch my 17 Pro I’m trading in. Though about keeping it and adding audio system down the road but I want the newer stuff added to the 2020 Pro. Question on your system. Where did you put the sub in your 4runner? Your still using your factory headunit? If you don’t mind me asking just for all the audio stuff what was the total price. I see you did your own install. Thanks Don.

I have the third row seat, so I was able to stick it in the stock location. Removed the pocket that was there

img_20180831_151702_42f140b710b5891ed6d2933ecadea4c217faf4dc.jpg


And used the stock enclosure to mount my JL sub. I tapped the signal off the factory head unit yes

img_20180903_163755_dff43c771f53ac0034068d493501ca601f8d893a.jpg


More details in my thread

BlackAck's 5th Gen 4Runner thread

I think the other speaker swaps were in the first page or 2
 
Save your $2500. Buy a 2015 GX460 Luxury model. Enjoy better audio than you would get throwing $10k at the 4Runner.

The thing is that none of the cars have really good quality stock audio. Some, like GX460, might have decent systems but properly done aftermarket will always be better. Now because of that I'm pretty much set on putting aftermarket audio in the vehicle that I purchase, whatever the vehicle would be.
With that in mind, what's the point of paying more for car with slightly better audio and then throwing whole audio away just to put even better in?

I think your comment is very exaggerated. Let's think again, stock GX460 does really have better audio than 4Runner with $10k upgrades?
 
As a non-5th Gen owner my input is a little less valuable, but I did just finish up a system in my 100 that would fall in that budget if you did some/most work yourself. Hopefully this is somewhat helpful info.

I think the 100 is a little quieter than the 5th gen, but probably not too far off.

I removed all OEM equipment. Pioneer double din deck, dual 10" Focal 27V2, Audio Control DSP/amp, Morel Virtus 602 components up front, no rear speakers. I also removed ALL the interior and sound deadened the entire floor/sides/ceiling of the vehicle. I did not do doors as I ran out of garage time, but that should further improve sound isolation once I get to that.

I tested it a little with just the Morel speakers and an old JL AB class amp. I was blown away. Clarity like I've never heard short of a few demo's in "Listen Up" and similar audio stores. I agree with others that you'll lose the ability to hear definition once on the highway, but I still think good speakers are best bang for buck, even in a non-Rolls-Royce interior. You're not going to get home hi-fi quality, but you can make some huge strides of improvement with $2500.

If you're going into a purchase with audio in mind, start with the quietest interior you can. That probably means don't buy a 4runner. Go Lexus. You can address components relatively easily, but lowering the noise floor as well as Lexus is going to be tough to replicate.
 
The thing is that none of the cars have really good quality stock audio. Some, like GX460, might have decent systems but properly done aftermarket will always be better. Now because of that I'm pretty much set on putting aftermarket audio in the vehicle that I purchase, whatever the vehicle would be.
With that in mind, what's the point of paying more for car with slightly better audio and then throwing whole audio away just to put even better in?

I think your comment is very exaggerated. Let's think again, stock GX460 does really have better audio than 4Runner with $10k upgrades?

I don't think there's any question that Lexus engineers can design a better audio system than you. And they have. And it is better than anything you could come close to for $10k.

They can choose the location of every speaker, they choose the wiring loom, they choose the speaker size, type, and enclosure. They also choose the sound dampening. And they likely spent hundreds or thousands of hours tuning the system. (I don't know on the GX - but Lexus spent multiple thousands of hours of tuning on the LS, presumably less on the GX). For $10k you could replace the components that they installed with a hodgpodge of stuff you hope works out to be something better once. No tuning. Not testing a dozen tweeter configurations, etc.

Can you upgrade a base model 4Runner? Sure. Will it be comparable to the GX Levenson system? No. Is a low mile used GX with the Levinson system available for about the same price as a used 4Runner? Yep. If you want the obvious solution to a better audio system with little effort and about the same cost - the answer is pretty clear. If you want the 4Runner for other reasons instead of a GX - then by all means upgrade the audio system. If I really cared much about the audio, I'd short cut to the finished product.
 
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I kept the factory head unit and added an audisson bit ten DSP, a JL audio 5 channel amp and swapped speakers at all 8 locations for focal plug and play. I couldnt be happier. I did all the install, including sound deadening, myself. I think all in with all the offs and ends i came in around $2400. I still dont have a subwoofer, but most people who hear it think i do.
 

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