Question about air down.
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shrub1
Member
a t l a s
New member
I typically air down to 15 in most cases, and further to 10 in special cases (deep or icy packed snow).
It depends on the tire, but the lower you go, the slower you should go. Speed creates more heat and friction in the make up of the tire and can compromise the integrity of them.
It depends on the tire, but the lower you go, the slower you should go. Speed creates more heat and friction in the make up of the tire and can compromise the integrity of them.
nevada
Senior Member
true, but that long on a gravel road, running aired down is usually a nicer ride.
id think 20 would be a good number.
SwayzeExpress
New member
Are running d or e rated duratracs?
Either way I'd save the time of airing up and down on forest roads and spend it catching fish
Either way I'd save the time of airing up and down on forest roads and spend it catching fish
mteolus
New member
I won't do any less than 15 lbs since I don't have beadlocks. On that road you are talking about, yea probably 20 to 25.
And on another note, Stauns deflators are amazing. More expensive than the cheap ones on Amazon, but I think the quality will keep these working for a long time. Screw them on each wheel and wait until they stop, easy as that. I think they are supposed to be factory set to 18 lbs, mine stopped at 15 which was fine. You can adjust them to any setting you want. I got the standard duty 6-30.
Staun Deflators
And on another note, Stauns deflators are amazing. More expensive than the cheap ones on Amazon, but I think the quality will keep these working for a long time. Screw them on each wheel and wait until they stop, easy as that. I think they are supposed to be factory set to 18 lbs, mine stopped at 15 which was fine. You can adjust them to any setting you want. I got the standard duty 6-30.
Staun Deflators
Olddudesrule
New member
What is the condition of the forest road? If it's anything like ours here in AZ, I wouldn't air down at all. Waste of time and effort on a well maintained, flat, relatively smooth dirt/gravel road. Also, if you do air down, do you have a way to air up before you travel distance on hardball road or is there a gas station near the end of the forest road?
MAST4R
New member
I hear you guys, 20 psi seems to be the sweet spot.
I will be driving around 45 miles/hour most of the trip. Give or take
Thanks for the fast replies.
That ^
It really does not matter for forest roads.
Most importantly, most people forget that it all depends on P vs LT in harsher terrain.
YOU DON'T WANT TO AIR DOWN P-METRIC AT TIRES FOR ANYTHING BUT DEEP SOFT STUFF.
1/ They have plenty of flex at street pressures.
2/ They are plenty comfortable at street pressures.
I run Backaway to Crown King, Broken Arrow, Crapshoot, and every other low-end difficult, moderate, or easy trail in AZ or UT at 33 psi.
AIRING DOWN P-METRIC IN HARSH TERRAIN=TROUBLE with sidewalls.
On the other hand, LT tires especially E-load are worthless at street pressure in harsh terrain. At street pressures, they have no flex, and thus have poor traction and they will also rattle your teeth. They must be aired down to around 20 psi or less to perform properly in harsh terrain. At 18-20 they should have great traction and ride very smooth as well.
But, again, on a forest road, the only issue would be comfort.
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SwayzeExpress
New member
If you mean harsh as high friction, I agree, if you mean harsh as questionable sometimes cutting through a soft layer to solid bed is worth some psi...
I deal with a lot of ruts and mud in the midwest, fully understand that geography is the decision maker
MAST4R
New member
Sorry for the generic expression!
The typical Southern AZ terrain, mile per mile, is the same from easy to very difficult trails, aside from the obstacles. It consists of extended sections of broken sharp rock and constant wash crossings and drainages running across the trail. In these conditions, a P-metric tire will expose its sidewalls too much and would also risk a pinch puncture though I am not very familiar with the latter and unsure if it applies to P more than to LT.
Say, Southern Utah terrain can on occasion be similar to Southern AZ but normally you get a lot less broken loose sharp rock to deal with. In SW Colorado, there is a lot of broken rock, too, but the sections are at least very short and very slow speed.
I saw nothing like this in Montana where we drove more than two dozen dirt roads and trails. We did two rocky trails, but the rocks were well-rounded, like riverbed rocks, not sharp rocks. We went through a lot of fallen branches though, at street pressures, and had no issues. So I guess that is the mountain equivalent of the desert sharp rock!
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mcox522
New member
I explore in the Phoenix area
2016 trail with KDSS
265 KO2 C rated
38 psi street
~28 psi forest roads and smoother dirt roads and depending on outside temperature.
That's what works for me, try things out and see what works.
If you have P rated tires, do yourself a favor and get something else.
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
2016 trail with KDSS
265 KO2 C rated
38 psi street
~28 psi forest roads and smoother dirt roads and depending on outside temperature.
That's what works for me, try things out and see what works.
If you have P rated tires, do yourself a favor and get something else.
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
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SwayzeExpress
New member
Lucky dog! Its wild how lacking the midwest is with true open lands. Have fun and any dont think about your tires so much unless you feel they could be better. I guess I'm saying you may prefer feeling the road more where someone else may want to float all over lol
Personally I'd head out and see then air down after enough time to feel the difference. It will make future decisions easier. I only air down for muddy hills
