Question about driver side lean after lift [resolved]

vukos

New member
I got a 3 inch OME suspension installed last week by a shop. Front: 883 and Rear: 890 with the 60073 Soft shocks

Today I noticed a visible driver's side lean. My understanding is that this kit came with a OME Trim Packer for the driver side front to help alleviate this lean. How can I tell that this was installed properly by the shop? I don't think I see a difference between the two front suspension elements after looking at them.

Is this something I should go back to the shop for? Should I ignore it and hope it levels itself out over time? Is this something a new alignment would help fix, which i am getting done this week? The lean isnt too bad but im sure it gets worse once im sitting in the front and have a full tank of gas

Edit: Front has a 0.5 inch difference, Rear is 1.25 inch difference

EDIT: Thanks for the recommendations. You guys were right in that the shop had installed the rear coils backwards. Evidently their tech didn't notice that one was taller than the other and installed the taller one on the passenger side.
 
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The rear springs are different heights, too. You might want to check them. I believe the "A" spring goes on the left, the "B" spring on the right.
 
Sounds like the shop didn't know what they were doing. Did you examine the parts that came with the lift and saw the trim packer for the front driver side spring? Did you examine the rear springs and see that one was labeled driver side and other passenger side?

If it were my rig, I'd take it back to them. You shouldn't have a lean if it was done right.
 
Sounds like the shop didn't know what they were doing. Did you examine the parts that came with the lift and saw the trim packer for the front driver side spring? Did you examine the rear springs and see that one was labeled driver side and other passenger side?

If it were my rig, I'd take it back to them. You shouldn't have a lean if it was done right.

I did not examine for a trim packer as the front came comppletely assembled so I wouldn't know what to look for anyway. Is there something I can look for now?
 
I did not examine for a trim packer as the front came comppletely assembled so I wouldn't know what to look for anyway. Is there something I can look for now?

It would be some type of spacer either between the strut assembly and the frame bracket or maybe on top of the spring itself.

For the rear springs, they may be color coded. Read up on the lift you bought so you can figure out which one was suppose to be on each side. Hopefully it wasn't just marked with a label that the shop took off and now it will be impossible to tell which is which.
 
It would be some type of spacer either between the strut assembly and the frame bracket or maybe on top of the spring itself.

For the rear springs, they may be color coded. Read up on the lift you bought so you can figure out which one was suppose to be on each side. Hopefully it wasn't just marked with a label that the shop took off and now it will be impossible to tell which is which.

OME has tags, no label. The only way to tell for sure is to remove them and see which one is taller if the labels gone. Trim packers go in the rear. The fronts could have a top plate spacer but if they came already assembled you'd have to ask the sales team you purchased them from.

OP, go out and take center of hub to fender flare numbers on all 4 tires. That will give us a better idea of how bad your lean really is. Do it with a full tank if you can.
 
Our trucks do have an inherent driver side lean, so don't be shocked by this. Measurements will tell you the severity of the lean. If it's an inch or more than I'd bet that your gear is on the wrong side. If it's only a 1/2 inch or so you may just need one more trim packer and can call it good.


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Our trucks do have an inherent driver side lean, so don't be shocked by this. Measurements will tell you the severity of the lean. If it's an inch or more than I'd bet that your gear is on the wrong side. If it's only a 1/2 inch or so you may just need one more trim packer and can call it good.


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"Shocked" pun not intended...



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OME uses a 3/16" thick washer between the spring and spring perch to compensate for lean. Look at your struts where the spring is sitting on the strut.
compare left/right the strut with washer goes on driver side. Rear, if paper labels are gone the only true way to judge is with springs out. Longer spring driver side.
 
OME has tags, no label. The only way to tell for sure is to remove them and see which one is taller if the labels gone. Trim packers go in the rear. The fronts could have a top plate spacer but if they came already assembled you'd have to ask the sales team you purchased them from.

OP, go out and take center of hub to fender flare numbers on all 4 tires. That will give us a better idea of how bad your lean really is. Do it with a full tank if you can.

Edit: looks like there is a silver washer toward the bottom of the driver side shock/strut assembly but not on the passenger side, so that should be good. Given the measurements below, do you guys think my rears are swapped?

Here are the measurements (in inches) on a full tank of gas:

Driver Front: 22
Pass Front: 22.5
Difference: 0.5 inches

Driver Rear: 22.5
Pass Rear: 23.75
Difference: 1.25 inches

Front difference seems minor but that rear difference is pretty bad. Now my tires aren't 100% even pressure I'm sure. The last time they were aired up was probably 3k miles ago
 
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OME uses a 3/16" thick washer between the spring and spring perch to compensate for lean. Look at your struts where the spring is sitting on the strut.
compare left/right the strut with washer goes on driver side. Rear, if paper labels are gone the only true way to judge is with springs out. Longer spring driver side.

Okay I found the front driver side washer so that looks ok. However I can't eeally tell anything about the rear. See my measurements. Does that difference possibly indicate swapped springs?
 
Okay I found the front driver side washer so that looks ok. However I can't eeally tell anything about the rear. See my measurements. Does that difference possibly indicate swapped springs?

When measuring (you mentioned tire pressure) do not measure from ground. Measure from center of hub to wheel well opening directly above center of hub.
The rear springs play a larger part in lean correction than the front springs do.
Going by your numbers, sounds like your rears are bas akwards. Call your installer and ask "did you put taller spring on driver side" if he hesitates with answer he wasn't paying attention to install. I installed 3" OME lift in March,
it sat level within 1/4".
 
When measuring (you mentioned tire pressure) do not measure from ground. Measure from center of hub to wheel well opening directly above center of hub.
The rear springs play a larger part in lean correction than the front springs do.
Going by your numbers, sounds like your rears are bas akwards. Call your installer and ask "did you put taller spring on driver side" if he hesitates with answer he wasn't paying attention to install. I installed 3" OME lift in March,
it sat level within 1/4".

Thanks. Those measurements are from hub to fender. Looks like I'll have to take the car back tomorrow
 
Thanks. Those measurements are from hub to fender. Looks like I'll have to take the car back tomorrow

Please don't take this the wrong way because my intention is good. Many, many times, shops screw things up. With some basic tools, you could have done this lift yourself, saved yourself some money and not had to deal with the headaches of having the shop screw up the install.

My buddy Sean (@infamousRNR) and I started a YouTube channel dedicated mostly to working on 3rd Gen 4runners. The next time you need something done, check out our channel because we might have a video for you to use as a tutorial to follow. If we don't have a video for what you want to do, there's a good chance somebody else has or maybe there's a good write-up. You also have this forum and other forums as a resource too. A lot of auto mechanics is not that hard. All it takes is a willingness to learn and of course an investment in some tools. The cool thing is the money you save pays for the tools and now you have the tools to use for other jobs or to help a family member or friend. Also, many auto parts stores rent specialty tools for free so you have that option as well.

So Dude, consider taking up the challenge. Fixing and modding your own vehicles is very rewarding and worthwhile.

Here's a link to our channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC9EMiD9KPy61kJ6hdXcbjxA

Happy Wrenching!
 
Please don't take this the wrong way because my intention is good. Many, many times, shops screw things up. With some basic tools, you could have done this lift yourself, saved yourself some money and not had to deal with the headaches of having the shop screw up the install.

I'm not speaking for the OP here but just in general.

Sometimes people just don't have the time, desire, or skills to do these things. Sometimes the savings in labor just isn't worth it to them. I get that. I understand that. I'm fine with that.

In those cases it's up to the owner to find a decent specialty shop or do the research and make sure the shop understands what needs to be installed where and how. Most non-specialty shops have no idea what "drivers side lean" is. They also have no idea that after market springs can be different heights to accommodate this.

A specialty shop is another story. They have seen it. They know about it. It's what they do. Had the OP bought his rig to a specialty shop I most likely wouldn't be typing this.

As an example I also own a 2003 VW Jetta TDI. It's a great car that seldom needs much done but an oil change. Ironically, my small little town is home to Sierra German Auto. One of the top VW specialty mechanics in the west. People come from all over to have that shop work on there cars. And with good reason. The owner is honest and one of the most knowledgeable mechanics I've ever met.

He does my oil changes in that Jetta. I get a bill of 80 bucks every time. I priced out getting the oil and filter so I could do them myself. That's 70 bucks for the oil and filter. The TDI needs an oil that's conforms to the German Diesel spec and it's not cheap. He gets it in bulk and passes that along to his customers. 10 bucks in savings for a 30 minute job simply isn't worth my time in this case.
 
So you guys were correct, the shop installed the rear coils backwards. They had the taller one on the passenger side. This has been corrected and everything appears to be in order now.

Thanks for the recommendations
 

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