Question about regearing

[Atreyus]

What is needed to regear? Is it just ring and pinion? I want to go from stock 3.90 to 4.88's because I'm running 33" tires. How much would it cost for parts and labor? And does anyone know of any shops located in soCal that will be able to do it? I'm planning to regear once I get my tax return. Thanks!

 

[brian2sun]

You need the master bearing kit also (~$200). Since you're 2wd and will only be regearing the one diff, you may want to consider taking the 3rd member out yourself and buying through eastcoastgearsupply.com. You order a new 3rd member with your choice of gears (and locker if you wan one) pre-installed. They ship you the new 3rd, you swap it out with yours at your convenience and ship your old 3rd back to them to recieve a core $$ back. They are the cheapest way to go and have a 5 year P&L warrranty.

If you need to go to a shop (whether you have them do the entire regear or even just swap 3rds for you), check out Yotamasters in Corona. Whatever you do, don't let 4Wheelparts touch your truck.

 

[Atreyus]

So with total cost and labor how much am I looking to spend? I'll probably go to that place in Corona once I get my funds.

 

[brian2sun]

I would say ~$200 for the gear set, $200 for the master install kit, $300 labor. So ~$700 or so (without a locker). If you've ever considered getting a locker, now is the time because there won't be any additional labor, just the cost of the locker.

 

[durrell]

You need the master bearing kit also (~$200). Since you're 2wd and will only be regearing the one diff, you may want to consider taking the 3rd member out yourself and buying through eastcoastgearsupply.com. You order a new 3rd member with your choice of gears (and locker if you wan one) pre-installed. They ship you the new 3rd, you swap it out with yours at your convenience and ship your old 3rd back to them to recieve a core $$ back. They are the cheapest way to go and have a 5 year P&L warrranty.

If you need to go to a shop (whether you have them do the entire regear or even just swap 3rds for you), check out Yotamasters in Corona. Whatever you do, don't let 4Wheelparts touch your truck.

So say I want to replace my non-e-locker third member with a locker third member. No re-gear, just a replacement. How much would I be looking at spending total?

 

[brian2sun]

You'll need to search "elocker retrofit". It's not a direct swap so that depends on if you can cut and weld or if you know someone that can do it for you. I have no idea how much a shop would charge since this is predominantly a DIY thing for people with some fab skillz, but I would guess $500 for the labor. I've seen used elocked 3rd members go for between $350 and $600 on ebay (maybe cheaper if you can find one in a salvage yard). If you're 4x4, you'll probably have to get one out of a taco, because most of the 4runner elocked 3rds are 4.30 gears so it won't work with your front end (you won't be able to use 4x4 if the gear ratio in your front and rear diffs isn't the same). I have never heard of a 4.30 geared 4runner with open diffs so it's likely you have 4.10s and possibly 3.90s.

Another option is to find an entire 4runner axle complete with an elocker already in it (which will be more like $700-1000). The labor to swap axles is a lot less than retrofitting an elocker into your housing, but if you are 4WD, you'll most likely need to regear the front to 4.30s (unless you're lucky enough to find a rare 4.10 geared elocked 4runner axle). And tha depends on if you have 4.10s now. Note: You must use a 4runner axle if you go this route because the Taco axles are leaf sprung and the spring perches are different.

After all that, you'll need to get the wiring harness either used or from Inchworm (I believe that's who makes the aftermarket harness) and wire the elocker in.

Now you know why I just went with ARBs, haha.

 

[durrell]

I may just end up going the ARB route too if I ever have to replace my rear end, haha. I'm almost positive I have 4.10's.

 

[Atreyus]

Brian, what do you think? Should I just regear or should I drop to 31" tires? Would 31" Need a regear? I'm mainly regearing because ever since I got 33" tires my mileage and power has gone way down, I'm looking to restore that by regearing hopefully.

 

[durrell]

Argh, I hate to hear that. I want to run 285's, but a lot of people are talking about a substantial loss of power and MPG's. Do not want.

 

[Atreyus]

Argh, I hate to hear that. I want to run 285's, but a lot of people are talking about a substantial loss of power and MPG's. Do not want.

yeah it's pretty bad, on average with my 225/75/15 tires i think I got aroudn 240-280 on a tank of gas, now I'm getting around 160-200 and the power is pretty bad. I just wanna get as much info before I decide to do something that costs that much money.

 

[scottyb]

Brian, what do you think? Should I just regear or should I drop to 31" tires? Would 31" Need a regear? I'm mainly regearing because ever since I got 33" tires my mileage and power has gone way down, I'm looking to restore that by regearing hopefully.

I just got the 33's as well. The torque has gone down a little (not bad), but my gas mileage is about the same. Maybe a 1 or 2 mpg drop. Make sure when calculating gas mileage, that you take into account the additional distance you traveled because of the larger tires. You would multiply the odometer reading by 1.065 if going from 31" to 33". That's just a straight calculation not taking into account the effective diameter of the tire or tread-wear.

A better method would be to get on mapquest before you take a trip on the highway and find the exact distance you are going to go. Then that distance verse your odometer reading. This will be more accurate than the 1.065. Also the longer distance you do this over, the more accurate the mileage correction factor.

 

[scottyb]

Has anyone regeared both differentials themselves? I've replaced ring gears and swapped out carriers in Subarus and it wasn't very difficult.

I would be much more likely to do this if I didn't have to pay someone else to do it:gun6:

 

[Atreyus]

I just got the 33's as well. The torque has gone down a little (not bad), but my gas mileage is about the same. Maybe a 1 or 2 mpg drop. Make sure when calculating gas mileage, that you take into account the additional distance you traveled because of the larger tires. You would multiply the odometer reading by 1.065 if going from 31" to 33". That's just a straight calculation not taking into account the effective diameter of the tire or tread-wear.

A better method would be to get on mapquest before you take a trip on the highway and find the exact distance you are going to go. Then that distance verse your odometer reading. This will be more accurate than the 1.065. Also the longer distance you do this over, the more accurate the mileage correction factor.

What kind of gears are you on? I would like to get at least back to 240-250 or about 110 at half tank lol it saddens me when I'm at 110-120 at 1/4 of a tank left lol. But I do love having bigger tires a lot of my friends love the lifted look of my truck ever since I put the spacer lift and tires. They hate having to climb into my truck now...there kinda short lol.

 

[scottyb]

What kind of gears are you on? I would like to get at least back to 240-250 or about 110 at half tank lol it saddens me when I'm at 110-120 at 1/4 of a tank left lol. But I do love having bigger tires a lot of my friends love the lifted look of my truck ever since I put the spacer lift and tires. They hate having to climb into my truck now...there kinda short lol.

I think they're 4.10s. And I get about 120 miles at half tank if i'm highway driving and a bit less in town.

And I know what you're talking about, my girlfriend uses a running jump to get in now:lol:

 

[brian2sun]

Brian, what do you think? Should I just regear or should I drop to 31" tires? Would 31" Need a regear? I'm mainly regearing because ever since I got 33" tires my mileage and power has gone way down, I'm looking to restore that by regearing hopefully.

I ran 265/75/16s (32s) for years before I lifted it and went to 33s and I never felt the need to regear. And I have to climb up, down and around a mountain everyday. But once I got 33s (and now 33.5s), the gears were a must for me because my tranny was hunting like crazy. I'm a firm believer that gears save your tranny. I figure with the weight I carry, it would be like a stock 4runner pulling a 700 lb. trailer all the time.

You can still do a lot of trails on 32s so it's not that bad, but I wanted to be able to hit more difficult trails with more ease. I wheel like once or twice a week so if I ever SAS it, I'll go to 37s and regear again to 5.71s. It's a balance of how good you want it to wheel and how good you want it to drive.

 

[durrell]

What kind of gears are you on? I would like to get at least back to 240-250 or about 110 at half tank lol it saddens me when I'm at 110-120 at 1/4 of a tank left lol. But I do love having bigger tires a lot of my friends love the lifted look of my truck ever since I put the spacer lift and tires. They hate having to climb into my truck now...there kinda short lol.

Ok, ok, I just noticed you're on a 4x2 that came stock with the 3.90 gears. I have the 4.10's and I'm hoping that (like Brian) I won't see a huge decrease. That makes me feel better.