Question | Bilstein 5100's for leveling

[Rocco777]

Hey guys,

New member here. Just picked up a 2012 LE 4Runner and really loving it! My apologies in advance if this question has been beaten to death, but what is my best option for simply leveling the 4Runner? It looks like going with the 5100's is my best bet? Do I buy the adjustable fronts and the 'standard' 5100 for the rear?

Not looking for a lift at this time and would like to keep the factory ride as close as possible. Thanks for your help!

 

[1engineer]

Yes.

 

[BobsTrail]

Yes.

What he said, and

0.85 will get you close to level with a little tail high. 1.75 will give a good level. If you load it much it may go tail low at 1.75 unless you add Air LIft bags. I set mine to 0.85 as in the photo and think 1.75 may be better.

 

[Rocco777]

Thank you! This is exactly what I needed. Placing the order now.

 

[T4R_Finally]

Since the OP seems to have gotten his answers, mind if I hijack here? I am definitely going with 5100's on the front. I decided against a 4 corner spacer lift. How bad would it be to go with just some mild spacers in the back for just a little bit of lift? And what sizes are available? Is there anything out there for about 1"? And will the front shocks adjust to the right point to level it with a 1" lift in the back? Any significant downside to going up a little in the back? I will probably stay with a P265 tire on the stock rims but maybe do a P265/75 instead of P265/70.

 

[3wbdriver]

Here's a 14 TE set at 1.75" (Corrected from initial 2" claim) on the fronts and just the shock upgrade on the back. Fenders measure 35" to top of front and rear with a couple hundred pounds of gear in the back. But visually it does look slightly tail down.

 

[thebwlife]

Since the OP seems to have gotten his answers, mind if I hijack here? I am definitely going with 5100's on the front. I decided against a 4 corner spacer lift. How bad would it be to go with just some mild spacers in the back for just a little bit of lift? And what sizes are available? Is there anything out there for about 1"? And will the front shocks adjust to the right point to level it with a 1" lift in the back? Any significant downside to going up a little in the back? I will probably stay with a P265 tire on the stock rims but maybe do a P265/75 instead of P265/70.

See my link in signature, I have a couple 5100 setups listed. They don't make a 265/75/17.

Can do 265/70/17, 255/70/17, 275/70/70, or 285/70/17 on the 5100's setup variations.

The daystar 1.5" spacers provide actually 1" as reported by a few guys on this forum.

Thank you! This is exactly what I needed. Placing the order now.

Do you have XREAS? If so you can't replace just the front, you'll need to do all 4.

Here's a 14 TE set at 2" on the fronts and just the shock upgrade on the back. Fenders measure 35" to top of front and rear with a couple hundred pounds of gear in the back. But visually it does look slightly tail down.

Front 5100's offer none, .85", 1.75", or 2.5" - 2" isn't an option.

 

[T4R_Finally]

They don't make a 265/75/17.

Can do 265/70/17, 255/70/17, 275/70/70, or 285/70/17 on the 5100's setup variations.

The daystar 1.5" spacers provide actually 1" as reported by a few guys on this forum.

You are right. My bad, I was misreading a manufacturer tire chart. Would still like to consider a little extra fender room even with stock size tires or maybe see if a 275 would work.

 

[thebwlife]

You are right. My bad, I was misreading a manufacturer tire chart. Would still like to consider a little extra fender room even with stock size tires or maybe see if a 275 would work.

From my website:

To run the OEM sized tires at 265/70/17 or 275/70/17, which is more than capable size for most people I would recommend these:

Front – Bilstein 5100′s in the front set at 1.75″ lift (third notch from the bottom)

Rear – Bilstein 5100′s & Daystar 1.5″ Spacers

To run the oversized tires at 285/70/17, which is the most capable size. I would recommend these three options. With all lifts over 2″ in the front I would recommend getting new Upper Control Arms. My recommendation unless you go with an Icon Stage 2 or higher kit is the Camburg Ball Joint Arms with Moog BJ’s already installed from wheelersoffroad.com

Front - Bilstein 5100′s in the front set at 2.5″ lift (top (4th) notch from the bottom)

Rear - Bilstein 5100′s & SAW 1.5″ Springs

 

[1engineer]

From my website:

To run the OEM sized tires at 265/70/17 or 275/70/17, which is more than capable size for most people I would recommend these:

Front – Bilstein 5100′s in the front set at 1.75″ lift (third notch from the bottom)

Rear – Bilstein 5100′s & Daystar 1.5″ Spacers

To run the oversized tires at 285/70/17, which is the most capable size. I would recommend these three options. With all lifts over 2″ in the front I would recommend getting new Upper Control Arms. My recommendation unless you go with an Icon Stage 2 or higher kit is the Camburg Ball Joint Arms with Moog BJ’s already installed from wheelersoffroad.com

Front - Bilstein 5100′s in the front set at 2.5″ lift (top (4th) notch from the bottom)

Rear - Bilstein 5100′s & SAW 1.5″ Springs

Nice write up! Just a couple things from your website:
KDSS and XREAS cannot be combined.
Listing tire sizes as "capable" is misleading. Tire type and tread would define capability while size is just that - size. Bigger diameter means more ground clearance only. It also means more unsprung weight which will reduce efficiency and acceleration. So if you use size as equating "capability" then conversly it could reduce capability in some applications.

 

[thebwlife]

Nice write up! Just a couple things from your website:
KDSS and XREAS cannot be combined.
Listing tire sizes as "capable" is misleading. Tire type and tread would define capability while size is just that - size. Bigger diameter means more ground clearance only. It also means more unsprung weight which will reduce efficiency and acceleration. So if you use size as equating "capability" then conversly it could reduce capability in some applications.

I'll make a couple changes, I also keep finding spelling mistakes and grammar I'd like to change. Lets just say that writing is not my strongest subject, but this helps me improve.

Thanks for the suggestions and clarifications.

 

[3wbdriver]

Front 5100's offer none, .85", 1.75", or 2.5" - 2" isn't an option.

My mistake. Both struts came in the box with the adjusters set at 1.75" and I moved them to the next higher position. So I must be set at 2.5". Thanks for the correction.

 

[thebwlife]

My mistake. Both struts came in the box with the adjusters set at 1.75" and I moved them to the next higher position. So I must be set at 2.5". Thanks for the correction.

no problem - just want you to sound as good as your truck looks! have a good one.

My bet is they are set at 1.75" or else you'd be really front high, enough that it would look like a trophy truck. 1.75" is almost dead level until you put one bag of groceries in the rear.

 

[T4R_Finally]

From my website:

To run the OEM sized tires at 265/70/17 or 275/70/17, which is more than capable size for most people I would recommend these:

Front – Bilstein 5100′s in the front set at 1.75″ lift (third notch from the bottom)

Rear – Bilstein 5100′s & Daystar 1.5″ Spacers

To run the oversized tires at 285/70/17, which is the most capable size. I would recommend these three options. With all lifts over 2″ in the front I would recommend getting new Upper Control Arms. My recommendation unless you go with an Icon Stage 2 or higher kit is the Camburg Ball Joint Arms with Moog BJ’s already installed from wheelersoffroad.com

Front - Bilstein 5100′s in the front set at 2.5″ lift (top (4th) notch from the bottom)

Rear - Bilstein 5100′s & SAW 1.5″ Springs

Yeh, based on previous threads and posts, I either want minimal left or none but at least want the front level.

So, should I be pretty close to level with Bilsteins up front set to 1.75 and the Daystar 1.5 spacers in the back? Can you comment on why I would really need to put Bilsteins in the back or is it just a nice to do for ride quality while I'm in there? Can I buy the spacers just for the rear, or do I need to buy a kit and just pull what I need for the rear?

I'm leaning towards Terra Grapplers by the way, if I stay with the stock size. They aren't available in a 275 17. I have a set (LT305/70R17) on my son's pickup and they look more aggressive than they are, which is what I want. They still ride nicely and don't seem to make much highway roar.

Now that I review my primary choices in tires, it appears I'm going to be better off to stick with the stock size since the 275 isn't easy to come by and I don't want to do the higher lift. So, any thoughts on the mild lift with 265/70's vs. just a level? I'm now fairly (and finally) convinced I may be better off just using Bilsteins to level the front, put on new tires, get an alignment and call it a day. So, if I do nothing to lift the rear, should I bother putting Bilsteins back there or wait and see if I'm happy with it as-is? And if anyone suggests changing the rear shocks, what are the reasons?

 

[3wbdriver]

My bet is they are set at 1.75" or else you'd be really front high, enough that it would look like a trophy truck. 1.75" is almost dead level until you put one bag of groceries in the rear.

DING DING DING, PAY THE MAN DAMMIT!!! I would have sworn in court I had them at the top ring, but a visual shows I have one more up to go. I guess I should be glad I got them where they are. It took 6+ inches of down adjustment to get my headlights where they should be. Thank you for THAT tutorial!

And I SO wanted that trophy truck look!!! :shocked:

Back to edit my signature. Again.....

 

[thebwlife]

Yeh, based on previous threads and posts, I either want minimal left or none but at least want the front level.

So, should I be pretty close to level with Bilsteins up front set to 1.75 and the Daystar 1.5 spacers in the back? Can you comment on why I would really need to put Bilsteins in the back or is it just a nice to do for ride quality while I'm in there? Can I buy the spacers just for the rear, or do I need to buy a kit and just pull what I need for the rear?

I'm leaning towards Terra Grapplers by the way, if I stay with the stock size. They aren't available in a 275 17. I have a set (LT305/70R17) on my son's pickup and they look more aggressive than they are, which is what I want. They still ride nicely and don't seem to make much highway roar.

Now that I review my primary choices in tires, it appears I'm going to be better off to stick with the stock size since the 275 isn't easy to come by and I don't want to do the higher lift. So, any thoughts on the mild lift with 265/70's vs. just a level? I'm now fairly (and finally) convinced I may be better off just using Bilsteins to level the front, put on new tires, get an alignment and call it a day. So, if I do nothing to lift the rear, should I bother putting Bilsteins back there or wait and see if I'm happy with it as-is? And if anyone suggests changing the rear shocks, what are the reasons?

I'd add the rear shocks either way, they are designed to work as a system.

If you're going to add the rear spacers you really do need the shocks. You need them because the OEM shocks aren't long enough. If you don't want the rear spacer height just set the front at .85. But you'll be like lots of other people and end up moving it up....anything over 2" in my opinion needs new UCAs to get back into spec.

Here is the spacer kit just for the rear: http://amzn.to/1o9SIVn

I have the BFG TA KO, just as quite on the highway as factory tires and mine are 285's. They come in 275 or 265, so do the Firestone AT's which I've owned before and are great tires too.

 

[hrod79]

I have 2.5" set up in the front and daystar 1.5" in the rear. tires are Toyo Open Country 275/55R20 which are .5" taller than the 265 factory spec. Just to give you an Idea as to the way this looks






I have a set of 1.25" for sale which I think would work good with front set 1.75"
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/sale-...h-gen-traxda-1-25-rear-spring-spacer-$75.html

 

[T4R_Finally]

I really don't want a set of ko's. Great tire, have owned several sets, but for pavement only, they are a little more roar than I want and don't last as long. I also want to stay with a p-metric tire.

I am not sure I follow the logic that the stock shocks aren't long enough with spacers in the rear. I thought the point of spacers was to give lift but keep the suspension travel where it already was. Do the bilsteins stiffen up the rear end or actually improve the ride? I know one benefit on the front is to get rid of some of the stock nose dive.

I will definitely do the bilsteins up front. Prob no spacers in the back, and p265 tires. Just not sold yet on needing bilsteins in the rear. But I am open to reasons to consider it.

 

[Rocco777]

"Do you have XREAS? If so you can't replace just the front, you'll need to do all 4."


Newb question: how do I know if I have the XREAS system? It's an LE so I'm guessing I do? In order to level it with this system, I'll need to go with the adjustables up front, and the standard 5100 rears, correct?

Thanks again for your help!

 

[1engineer]

"Do you have XREAS? If so you can't replace just the front, you'll need to do all 4."


Newb question: how do I know if I have the XREAS system? It's an LE so I'm guessing I do? In order to level it with this system, I'll need to go with the adjustables up front, and the standard 5100 rears, correct?

Thanks again for your help!

If you have XREAS (and if you have an LE you do) then you are going to take off an expensive suspension system! That decision should not be made without a LOT of research on your part.