Question: CV Axles Destroying Wheel Bearings?

Griffin4Runner

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What's up y'all!

Last week, I drove from Atlanta to Memphis to Rapid City, SD. The trip was approximately 1450 miles. About a month ago, I replaced my OEM CV axles with CVJ Axles. Before the trip I took my 2000 SR5 4x4 to my local Toyota dealer to get a full inspection before I made such a long trip. Keep in mind, my 4Runner has 270k miles (better safe than sorry).

The noticed that my 4runner has a slight knocking noise (which I don't notice, honestly). We did, however, replace my Idle Air Control Valve and a few throttle body hoses because I had a coolant leak.

Regardless, I made the drive. By the time I hit Northwest Mississippi, I started to notice my 4runner was making a chugging noise, like a train, toward the front end of my truck. It reminded me of what a messed up wheel bearing sounds like. When I accelerate it gets louder until I am a consistent highway speed ~65mph. When I slow down it sounds like a slow 'chug'. I'd post a video of what it sounds like, but when you're driving, there are so many noises that you can hardly make it out via phone or camera audio.

With that said, I still have to diagnose that it is the wheel bearing that is messed up and not an engine problem. The problem is, I am nowhere near my lift, the OEM bottle jack doesn't reach my body or lower control arm because I have a 3" lift, 17" wheels, and 285/75/17 tires. I'm basically sitting 5" higher than a stock SR5.

Do y'all think my bearings could be affected by my new axles? It's plausible that my bearings are 20 years old and are just ready to bite the dust. Nonetheless, I'd still like to see if anyone may know better.

Because I am nowhere near a bearing press and the truck is 20 years old, if you were in my shoes, would you go ahead and just have a shop swap the bearing? I'm nowhere near a bearing press, so I couldn' do it myself....

OR, would y'all go ahead and get one of the pre-assembled wheel bearing hub assemblies?

*Please note that my grad assistantship ends at the end of April and because it's a contracted position, I can't even file for unemployment or get a job in my field due to licensure requirements. So the most cost-effective route would be preferred. I'm basically out of money until September haha. *

Any help or advice would be appreciated. I want to go offroad in the Black Hills without having to worry about destroying my vehicle due to poor ownership/maintenance.

Finally, if y'all want to go ahead and check out my Instagram, it's griffin4runner

Thanks!

Edit: it was the driver's rear bearings... They quoted me $500 to take it to a machine shop to disengage the rear axle and replace the driver's side rear bearings. Aside from making a noise, do y'all think it's worth the $500 to replace? Noise I can deal with, as long as it runs.
 
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What's up y'all!

Last week, I drove from Atlanta to Memphis to Rapid City, SD. The trip was approximately 1450 miles. About a month ago, I replaced my OEM CV axles with CVJ Axles. Before the trip I took my 2000 SR5 4x4 to my local Toyota dealer to get a full inspection before I made such a long trip. Keep in mind, my 4Runner has 270k miles (better safe than sorry).

The noticed that my 4runner has a slight knocking noise (which I don't notice, honestly). We did, however, replace my Idle Air Control Valve and a few throttle body hoses because I had a coolant leak.

Regardless, I made the drive. By the time I hit Northwest Mississippi, I started to notice my 4runner was making a chugging noise, like a train, toward the front end of my truck. It reminded me of what a messed up wheel bearing sounds like. When I accelerate it gets louder until I am a consistent highway speed ~65mph. When I slow down it sounds like a slow 'chug'. I'd post a video of what it sounds like, but when you're driving, there are so many noises that you can hardly make it out via phone or camera audio.

With that said, I still have to diagnose that it is the wheel bearing that is messed up and not an engine problem. The problem is, I am nowhere near my lift, the OEM bottle jack doesn't reach my body or lower control arm because I have a 3" lift, 17" wheels, and 285/75/17 tires. I'm basically sitting 5" higher than a stock SR5.

Do y'all think my bearings could be affected by my new axles? It's plausible that my bearings are 20 years old and are just ready to bite the dust. Nonetheless, I'd still like to see if anyone may know better.

Because I am nowhere near a bearing press and the truck is 20 years old, if you were in my shoes, would you go ahead and just have a shop swap the bearing? I'm nowhere near a bearing press, so I couldn' do it myself....

OR, would y'all go ahead and get one of the pre-assembled wheel bearing hub assemblies?

*Please note that my grad assistantship ends at the end of April and because it's a contracted position, I can't even file for unemployment or get a job in my field due to licensure requirements. So the most cost-effective route would be preferred. I'm basically out of money until September haha. *

Any help or advice would be appreciated. I want to go offroad in the Black Hills without having to worry about destroying my vehicle due to poor ownership/maintenance.

Finally, if y'all want to go ahead and check out my Instagram, it's griffin4runner

Thanks!

I doubt it's a wheel bearing. Oh, and there are no pre assembled hub assemblies for this truck. They make a growling noise when they go bad. I also doubt a CV would make a bearing go bad or vice versa. I'd say more than likely the AM CV joints are failing.

Question? What would you do if you got a flat? If you have some bricks or wood you could create a base for the jack. Or get a cheap jack from harbor freight and and hit the lower control arm on the 3 giant rivets. If you get it off the ground just a little you can spin the tire and discern the sound. If the bearings are bad, you probably won't get more than half a spin before it stops. If it does stop within 1 spin make sure you don't have a dragging caliper too.
 
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I'd say more than likely the AM CV joints are failing.

Question? What would you do if you got a flat?

Hi!

Thanks for the response. So, my main question (I hope this doesn't sound dumb) is how it could be the CV joints if I replaced the entire axles. That doesn't sound right. But, I am also completely capable of being wrong.

As for the flat tire, you just blew my mind! haha. I normally have a jack on hand, but I haven't had the need for the bottle jack until today. I was planning on getting a block for the jack my buddy has and for the bottle jack.

Thanks for the input though. Do you know anything about the hub assembly replacements?
 
I cant help at all with your question, but doesn't that come with the telescoping screw type jack? if it does, it should go more than high enough. they extend way out.
 
I cant help at all with your question, but doesn't that come with the telescoping screw type jack? if it does, it should go more than high enough. they extend way out.

The photo I am attaching is the jack setup for the 2000 SR5. I have control arm skids and the jack doesn't even touch that.
 

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Hi!

Thanks for the response. So, my main question (I hope this doesn't sound dumb) is how it could be the CV joints if I replaced the entire axles. That doesn't sound right. But, I am also completely capable of being wrong.

As for the flat tire, you just blew my mind! haha. I normally have a jack on hand, but I haven't had the need for the bottle jack until today. I was planning on getting a block for the jack my buddy has and for the bottle jack.

Thanks for the input though. Do you know anything about the hub assembly replacements?

To answer your last question first, I am very familiar with the bearing replacements. I actually did a write up on here. There is definitely some work to it. I just edited my previous post as I forgot to mention that there are no pre assembled hub assemblies for our trucks. They started that with the 4th gens.

For your 1st question is maybe it is a defective CV. Plus you have a pretty substantial lift and you're putting a brand new AM part in a position (angle) it wasn't designed to be in. That may have something to do with it.
 
The photo I am attaching is the jack setup for the 2000 SR5. I have control arm skids and the jack doesn't even touch that.
It definitely will. It double-extends. You don't put it on the body, just on the arm. In the rear, it goes under the axle, not the body. For emergency purposes, of course...

edit:

Here's a picture of me using it to jack up the body on mine. Zoom in to see that the second extension is just becoming visible:

WAB3yho.jpg


-Charlie
 
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The photo I am attaching is the jack setup for the 2000 SR5. I have control arm skids and the jack doesn't even touch that.
yep, that's the one. it will definitely go up high enough. I think it has 3 sections. it goes WAY up. much further than you would expect it to.


I use the same one on my 85, its got 6" of lift, and 37's. lifts it easily.
 
It definitely will. It double-extends. You don't put it on the body, just on the arm. In the rear, it goes under the axle, not the body. For emergency purposes, of course...

Super interesting. I put it under the arm and it just stopped going up when I used it. That may be because I have a skid plate on it which is at an angle, while the jack is flat. Either way, probably user error then! haha.

Thanks for the info
 
So a quick update: I checked out the front bearings and they were totally fine. I took it to a shop in Rapid City to see what the heck could be causing the noise. Turns out it's my left rear wheel bearing! They said it's noisy but there is no play.

Now obviously, a 4runner is RWD when 4x4 is not engaged. They quoted me $500 to take it to a machine shop to disengage the rear axle and replace the driver's side rear bearings. Aside from making a noise, do y'all think it's worth the $500 to replace? Noise I can deal with, as long as it runs.

Keep in mind, I plan on off-roading while I am in South Dakota. I also have to drive ~1500 miles to make it back to Atlanta. I am supposed to move to Boston in the Fall, so obviously I am going to put some miles on my SR5 within the next 6 months.
 
So a quick update: I checked out the front bearings and they were totally fine. I took it to a shop in Rapid City to see what the heck could be causing the noise. Turns out it's my left rear wheel bearing! They said it's noisy but there is no play.

Now obviously, a 4runner is RWD when 4x4 is not engaged. They quoted me $500 to take it to a machine shop to disengage the rear axle and replace the driver's side rear bearings. Aside from making a noise, do y'all think it's worth the $500 to replace? Noise I can deal with, as long as it runs.

Keep in mind, I plan on off-roading while I am in South Dakota. I also have to drive ~1500 miles to make it back to Atlanta. I am supposed to move to Boston in the Fall, so obviously I am going to put some miles on my SR5 within the next 6 months.
you don't get play out of a rear bearing when its bad, the way you do with the front. unless its REALLY bad.
$500 may be a touch high, not sure on the area. however, it will be cheaper than being stranded somewhere if it goes out.


if its making noise, then its bad, and needs to be changed. if it were me, I would get it done before travelling much further.
 
So a quick update: I checked out the front bearings and they were totally fine. I took it to a shop in Rapid City to see what the heck could be causing the noise. Turns out it's my left rear wheel bearing! They said it's noisy but there is no play.

Now obviously, a 4runner is RWD when 4x4 is not engaged. They quoted me $500 to take it to a machine shop to disengage the rear axle and replace the driver's side rear bearings. Aside from making a noise, do y'all think it's worth the $500 to replace? Noise I can deal with, as long as it runs.

Keep in mind, I plan on off-roading while I am in South Dakota. I also have to drive ~1500 miles to make it back to Atlanta. I am supposed to move to Boston in the Fall, so obviously I am going to put some miles on my SR5 within the next 6 months.

Keep in mind our rear axles are semi float which means the rear axle bearing is what holds the axle shaft to the axle housing. Failure of that bearing will result in no longer having those two stay together. Wheeling will increase the amount of stress that the rear axle bearing receives vs road driving. My $0.02 it's a lot cheaper to replace before it completely fails and your axle shaft decides to "see other people" and breaks up with your axle housing.
 
So a quick update: I checked out the front bearings and they were totally fine. I took it to a shop in Rapid City to see what the heck could be causing the noise. Turns out it's my left rear wheel bearing! They said it's noisy but there is no play.

Now obviously, a 4runner is RWD when 4x4 is not engaged. They quoted me $500 to take it to a machine shop to disengage the rear axle and replace the driver's side rear bearings. Aside from making a noise, do y'all think it's worth the $500 to replace? Noise I can deal with, as long as it runs.

Keep in mind, I plan on off-roading while I am in South Dakota. I also have to drive ~1500 miles to make it back to Atlanta. I am supposed to move to Boston in the Fall, so obviously I am going to put some miles on my SR5 within the next 6 months.

So they obviously are doing the seal too because to get the bearing off you have to remove the retainers. I'm not going to turn this into ANOTHER rear axle seal thread but I just thought I'd mention the "perils" of that part of the repair.
 
So they obviously are doing the seal too because to get the bearing off you have to remove the retainers. I'm not going to turn this into ANOTHER rear axle seal thread but I just thought I'd mention the "perils" of that part of the repair.

Hey John! Is there a rear axle seal thread you particularly like in the forum? I think I would rather do the work on the axle/bearing myself and have a machine shop press it. I'd rather learn the fix and save some money in the process.

Thanks!
 
Hey John! Is there a rear axle seal thread you particularly like in the forum? I think I would rather do the work on the axle/bearing myself and have a machine shop press it. I'd rather learn the fix and save some money in the process.

Thanks!

Watch Tim and Sean's videos. They reference (I believe) some of the threads on the forum they referenced, but with their video and with Tim's very descriptive, thorough style I think you'll be fine.

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-...epair-modification-videos-20.html#post2676823

Oh and good choice on doing it yourself. You'll know it was done right cause it's YOURS! Don't forget the GREASE TEST!!
 

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