Question to those who have replaced the rear hatch window regulator

[dta1984]

If you've replaced your rear hatch window regulator, do you remember what size head the 4 bolts that go into the glass are? Mine are caked in rust, just trying to figure out how much. So far, a 10mm still is loose around the bolt heads.

Any tips for removing severely rusted bolts? Thank you!

 

[Syr4RinNC]

Im pretty sure it is 10 mm bolt

 

[lightfreak]

I believe they're 10mm also,
I had to drill 3 of them out and use nuts and washers with the new bolts.

 

[Syr4RinNC]

Yea - give them a good greasing with wd 40 and wait a few hours or do it a day ahead. Heat up the bolts with heat gun or whatever you have and consider getting a socket for stripped bolts or if you can get vise grips on it. Hopefully you won’t have to drill it out

 

[dta1984]

Thanks! It's looking like the glass will probably have to come out so it's easier to work on. What's the easiest way to get it out? Straight up near the spoiler?

 

[MikeinNH67]

I had to remove the glass too. It is a pain to get out on a Limited because the wing thing at the top gets in the way. I removed all of the weather stripping to get a bit more space. I think then I pulled it out at a slight angle. I did break a white tab or 2 getting the bolts out. Pretty sure I used epoxy to put them back together which has held up for over a year. The video below shows a tech putting the glass in.

YouTube

 

[AuSeeker]

Make sure you try using a 6 point socket for more surface contact on the head of the bolts instead of a 12 point socket, even though it still will feel a bit loose it will not slip nearly as much if at all as a 12 point socket will.

I would also use a good penetrating oil/spray ahead of time instead of WD40, WD40 is a water dispersing spray and even though it will penetrate a little bit that's not what it was formulated for and there's other products that do a much better job at penetrating, the WD stands for "Water Displacement" the 40 is the number of formulas they tried until they got it right.

 

[y=mx+b]

I like using acetone and atf mixed 50/50 for a penetrating fluid. The science is supposedly the Iron oxide/rust reacts with the acetone to form iron carbide, which is much more brittle. After the reaction occurs, the now iron carbide should break apart more easily. I did some short ugga duggas back and forth with a 12v mini impact driver to try to break things up.

First gave it a shot on my skid plate bolts, and the bolts treated with the acetone/atf mix were the only ones I didn't break. Could be a coincidence, but I did the exact same thing on bolts treated with PB blaster almost everyday for a week ahead of time, and the PB bolts still broke. I let them soak in the acetone/atf overnight, and they came off next day without issue.

Might be able to apply this to the hatch motor bolts. I've never been in there to see them, but hopefully the concept can still help.

 

[Syr4RinNC]

Fair enough about the penetrating oil. I’ve seen a few comparisons where none of them work super well. But yea I know pb blaster or other formulations are more designed to “penetrate”

I also agree with you want to gradually tight and untighten so you don’t break it

 

[dta1984]

Looks like I'm most likely cutting these out. I have them soaking in PB blaster for the night to see if that helps. I did break one of the window tabs pulling the glass out. Just the bottom part broke off. I'm thinking I can jb weld it back on.

 

[Syr4RinNC]

Yea those are pretty nasty. Good luck

I was able to get my window to work fine with just one clip fyi

 

[dta1984]

Yea those are pretty nasty. Good luck

I was able to get my window to work fine with just one clip fyi

Glad to hear that. I was able to just cut the bolt heads off of all of them. I did break one additional tab. So... I now have 1 broken tab on each side, and just 1 good one each. I'm currently trying to epoxy washers on the broken ones to see if that works.

 

[dta1984]

Just to follow back up on this, I've got the window back in and everything works. There was no way I was getting the bolts out of the glass tabs with a socket as they were just too corroded. I cut the tips off with a dremel, then cut the heads in a cross shape. After that they pulled out. 1 tab had already broke, but I did break 1 additional tab on the glass. I jb welded washers to the back side of the broken sections , and that seems to have worked.

 

[GreaseJunkie]

I'm having the same issues with those rusted bolts. I can't find the part numbers for them - they're all shot so I'll need 4; does anyone know the pn? I'm at a loss for the vocabulary to search properly.

Thanks All!

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[GreaseJunkie]

I'm having the same issues with those rusted bolts. I can't find the part numbers for them - they're all shot so I'll need 4; does anyone know the pn? I'm at a loss for the vocabulary to search properly.

Thanks All!

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I found them, though I had to cut them to length 91621-40616. They're used in a few different places on the truck, so good to have a few extras.

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