Question to those with Budbuilt's hidden winch mount

-Trev-

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To those of you running a winch behind the bumper on a Budbuilt hidden winch mount:
How many opted to relocate their control box (selenoid) inside the engine compartment?.. and where?

My Budbuilt order (sliders and winch mount) arrived last week along with a new TJM winch... considering that access to the control box behind the bumper might be awkward and leave it more exposed to the elements, I anticipated mounting it in the engine compartment.
I know from my earlier thread searches that at least a couple guys here have installed their control box under the hood, but I don't know the specifics on exact placement, so I'm hoping you'll chime in with the details.

Behind the passenger side headlight is an obvious option, but would preclude one from considering a future second battery, so I was considering the space behind the battery and fuse box.

Aside from details on the box/seleniod placement, assuming you've had opportunities to put it to use, are you happy with your configuration: using a wireless remote control, dash mounted controls, or the wired/plugged-in controller?
Or if you left the control box/selenoid on the winch behind the grill, is that set up working well?

Any insight is appreciated :)
 
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I put my solenoids behind the passenger side headlight. I run the big ass Diehard Platinum boat battery, so I'm not going to bother with a dual battery setup. That battery runs my fridge for days in 100+ temps, and just laughs off a single line pull that the stock battery would struggle on with the engine running.

I use the Warn wireless remote. Depending on the winch you purchase, look into a contactor replacement for the solenoids. They are much smaller, sealed, and more reliable.

Something to consider in your placement - you need (iirc) 3 wires from your solenoids to the winch motor, so keeping the run short is best. I got #2 cable, solder slugs, and fiberglass loom from the local napa.
 
I put my solenoids behind the passenger side headlight. I run the big ass Diehard Platinum boat battery, so I'm not going to bother with a dual battery setup. That battery runs my fridge for days in 100+ temps, and just laughs off a single line pull that the stock battery would struggle on with the engine running.

I use the Warn wireless remote. Depending on the winch you purchase, look into a contactor replacement for the solenoids. They are much smaller, sealed, and more reliable.

Something to consider in your placement - you need (iirc) 3 wires from your solenoids to the winch motor, so keeping the run short is best. I got #2 cable, solder slugs, and fiberglass loom from the local napa.

Thanks Jeremy!.. I hoped you would be one to reply... your pics and posts helped in my initial decision to go for the hidden winch.

The winch I bought has a wireless remote function built into the control/selenoid box. Here's hoping it works as well as advertised.

You're 3rd point makes good sense in regards to keeping the run short for those 3 wires. I wasn't sure whether I'd need 2 or 4 gauge cable... so 2 it is... probably about 4 or 5 feet in length to reach that location?

If you don't mind me asking about the battery you mentioned, did you need to upgrade the stock battery tray, or does it fit just the same in the original tray?

Thanks again!
 
Thanks Jeremy!.. I hoped you would be one to reply... your pics and posts helped in my initial decision to go for the hidden winch.

The winch I bought has a wireless remote function built into the control/selenoid box. Here's hoping it works as well as advertised.

You're 3rd point makes good sense in regards to keeping the run short for those 3 wires. I wasn't sure whether I'd need 2 or 4 gauge cable... so 2 it is... probably about 4 or 5 feet in length to reach that location?

If you don't mind me asking about the battery you mentioned, did you need to upgrade the stock battery tray, or does it fit just the same in the original tray?

Thanks again!

figure out where the control box will go, take good measurements, then go to a welding supply shop and buy ground lead wire. I would add 5' to your measurements to be safe. buy the largest diameter you can afford, AND that will fit where you need it. then get some copper lugs and build your own cables.

if the box gets mounted somewhere that its hard to access, wire in another switch, hard mounted somewhere easily accessed. something you can reach while standing there guiding the cable.
 
Originally I wasn't sure where I wanted to mount it and went with 48" which would have allowed it to be mounted in front of the passenger side firewall. At some point I will cut the wire down (probably about 32") as the excess wire is cumbersome and takes up a lot of room.

The battery is bigger than the tray, but I'm not worried about it. It is an AGM, so it won't leak acid. It is a tight fit and you have to bend or replace the stock terminals.
 
figure out where the control box will go, take good measurements, then go to a welding supply shop and buy ground lead wire. I would add 5' to your measurements to be safe. buy the largest diameter you can afford, AND that will fit where you need it. then get some copper lugs and build your own cables.

if the box gets mounted somewhere that its hard to access, wire in another switch, hard mounted somewhere easily accessed. something you can reach while standing there guiding the cable.

Thanks for your input and advice! I've been told the local Princess Auto carries such welding supplies... will check it out.

Originally I wasn't sure where I wanted to mount it and went with 48" which would have allowed it to be mounted in front of the passenger side firewall. At some point I will cut the wire down (probably about 32") as the excess wire is cumbersome and takes up a lot of room.

The battery is bigger than the tray, but I'm not worried about it. It is an AGM, so it won't leak acid. It is a tight fit and you have to bend or replace the stock terminals.

Thanks again Jeremy; I probably would have over-estimated the wire length, wanting to have the cables ready before the front end comes apart makes it tougher to get precise measurements in advance.
And good to know about the battery... that's definitely on the 'to do list'.
 

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