questions about NAPA CV drive shaft

cdg11343

New member
Hello, I'm replacing the front right CV axle on my 98 SR5 4runner.

I decided to go with the NAPA one because, while it lists "limited lifetime warranty" like O'Reily and AutoZone does, their "limited lifetime" agreement does NOT have a clause about it being null and void if used for off-roading (which both O'Reily and AutoZone say).

Here's the NAPA part:

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NMD944013?keywordInput=NMD944013

I successfully removed the old axle using the very handy instructions here:

(my nut is 35mm - using a 24" 1/2" breaker bar, it came off easier than the drain plug on the diff did!)

I don't know if the original CV is the original from the truck or a replacement (I'm the 4th owner).

The new axle came with everything, it looks like: both dust shields and the snap ring that goes on the diff side!

The axle length looks the same. However, there are a few differences. Notice:

1 - The axle between the two boots is solid width all the way through on the new one, and not tapered like on the old one.

2 - The splines (I think that's the term?) on the old one are longer than those on the new one. But the overall length that inserts in the diff is the same.

Also, the new axle came with a scary warning that doesn't appear to apply? There isn't anything in the instructions about Toyota. But it mentions GM and Chrysler which makes me think the instructions don't matter?

Pics:

zdreG0s


I don't know how to get the pics to show from imgur. :( The link is here:

Imgur: The magic of the Internet

Is this new axle safe to use as is?

Thanks!
 
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I used napa new cv joints on Tetanus 1 [1998 v6 auto sr5] for at least 2 years or so now. They are still turning. No issues so far.

I did change the diff shaft seals when I changed mine. I bought OEM seals.

My boots started leaking so I just went napa.


What's wrong with your cv joints? Warn out boots?



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Thanks!

I bought an OEM diff seal from Toyota as well.

The right inner boot started leaking and making a royal mess right after I added the lift kit. My attempts at redoing the clamp failed, making an even bigger mess!

Since I had to pull the axle to reboot, I figured I'd get a new one and have one spare. NAPA had a nice black Friday sale going on so I got free diff oil as well! :)


I used napa new cv joints on Tetanus 1 [1998 v6 auto sr5] for at least 2 years or so now. They are still turning. No issues so far.

I did change the diff shaft seals when I changed mine. I bought OEM seals.

My boots started leaking so I just went napa.

What's wrong with your cv joints? Warn out boots?

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
 
Mine boot got damaged in frame welding repair.

I saw some users stating all napas were remanufactured. Mine were new and it's the same part number for both. I cant verify your part numbers till tommorrow. As my maintenance spreadsheets are stored on my pc.

I debated if I were to do anymore to just get Toyota remanufactured as those cv joints are not priced horribly. The new OEM Toyota cv joints are insane. Just like OEM exhaust and OEM struts are. Oh well nothing we can do about that. :)

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
 
I chose not to go with Toyota reman as I'd have to send back the core, which I didn't want to do as I think it just needs to be rebooted.

Mine boot got damaged in frame welding repair.

I saw some users stating all napas were remanufactured. Mine were new and it's the same part number for both. I cant verify your part numbers till tommorrow. As my maintenance spreadsheets are stored on my pc.
I debated if I were to do anymore to just get Toyota remanufactured as those cv joints are not priced horribly. The new OEM Toyota cv joints are insane. Just like OEM exhaust and OEM struts are. Oh well nothing we can do about that. :)

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
 
In your pic they look like different parts.
The inner cv joint body looks much longer.
The overall length appears longer.
The outer hub spline appears larger diameter?

I’ve run Napa before. I don’t recall them being that much different.

Oreily’s lists the overall compressed length at 24 7/32”. You should check that and see if old and new are the same length.
 
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I decided to go with the NAPA one because, while it lists "limited lifetime warranty" like O'Reily and AutoZone does, their "limited lifetime" agreement does NOT have a clause about it being null and void if used for off-roading (which both O'Reily and AutoZone say).

How do they even prove that? Off-roading is a pretty vague term. Are they going to decline you if you show up with a muddy broken axle? A dirt road can still legally be a road. I mean, I guess if you're a goofball who tells the guy that you were rockcrawling with a locked diff, then yes you are disqualified. Even if NAPA doesn't have the clause, isn't that still technically abusing the warranty since a failure wouldn't be caused by the product itself? Can't see many situations with a part-time 4x4 system where you'd cause a CV to break other than off road. Just curious though. I think the NAPAs are a better part anyway.
 
Thanks for the input. I don't know if the "old" is original OEM or aftermarket, so I don't know if I'm comparing apples to apples or not.

The inner boot on the old is loose -- I don't know if it's in the right place or not, which could make the new one look bigger.

The outer hub spline looks the same to me.

There is a part number of TO-8043 on the shaft on the new one. Looking that up gave me a hit on partsgeek. It looks like it's the SurTrack '01 Tacoma axle, which I believe is interchangable with a 3rd gen 4runner?

The overall compressed length looks to be 24 7/32".

Seems like it's the right one, although I'm not sure why NAPA is shipping SurTrack parts?

In your pic they look like different parts.
The inner cv joint body looks much longer.
The overall length appears longer.
The outer hub spline appears larger diameter?

I’ve run Napa before. I don’t recall them being that much different.

Oreily’s lists the overall compressed length at 24 7/32”. You should check that and see if old and new are the same length.
 
I know it's pretty vague. Still, they say it, and if it broke while I was out on a mountain somewhere, and they ask me if I was off-roading, I'm not going to lie about it.

That said, my brother argued that trails are roads! :)


How do they even prove that? Off-roading is a pretty vague term. Are they going to decline you if you show up with a muddy broken axle? A dirt road can still legally be a road. I mean, I guess if you're a goofball who tells the guy that you were rockcrawling with a locked diff, then yes you are disqualified. Even if NAPA doesn't have the clause, isn't that still technically abusing the warranty since a failure wouldn't be caused by the product itself? Can't see many situations with a part-time 4x4 system where you'd cause a CV to break other than off road. Just curious though. I think the NAPAs are a better part anyway.
 
Seems like it's the right one, although I'm not sure why NAPA is shipping SurTrack parts?

SurTrack makes that axle for NAPA and NAPA reboxes/rebrands them. Pretty common in the car parts industry.

EDIT: TrakMotive makes the axles for NAPA. Regardless, parts stores don't make any of their own parts. The parts are bought from parts manufacturers and resold as their brand.
 
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SurTrack makes that axle for NAPA and NAPA reboxes/rebrands them. Pretty common in the car parts industry.

i just did this a couple of weeks ago with brand new napas and they were trakmotives. i asked the guy if all the boxes were the same in the back and he said yeah.

OP, i only briefly looked at your pics on my phone but when you are putting the two axles side by side, they arent even matched up correctly (one looks offset).

if you bought new axles from napa and the box said 'trakmotive' on them, you are good to go. i have been driving around on mine now for a week or two with zero issues. good on ya for getting new oil and diff seals too. the napa seals are made by SKF and also a great option. that is what i have in my rig.
 
There's no label or identifying markers on the box aside from NAPA MaxDrive.

I apologize for the confusing pic. I wasn't trying to compare lengths of the two axles.

The inner boot on the old axle is not clamped down. (When I removed the axle, that part came out leaving the metal tri still in the diff. Once I got the rest out of the diff, I put it back together, and I put it in all the way.) Therefore it has half the resistance to being compressed and stretched, making it challenging to compare lengths between the old and new!


i just did this a couple of weeks ago with brand new napas and they were trakmotives. i asked the guy if all the boxes were the same in the back and he said yeah.

OP, i only briefly looked at your pics on my phone but when you are putting the two axles side by side, they arent even matched up correctly (one looks offset).

if you bought new axles from napa and the box said 'trakmotive' on them, you are good to go. i have been driving around on mine now for a week or two with zero issues. good on ya for getting new oil and diff seals too. the napa seals are made by SKF and also a great option. that is what i have in my rig.
 
Pic looked deceiving to me on my phone. As long as you've confirmed they are the same, or very similar you should be good to go.

All these companies source their parts from many different manufacturers and distributers.

I think parts store warranties are more employee related than anything else.
 
i just did this a couple of weeks ago with brand new napas and they were trakmotives. i asked the guy if all the boxes were the same in the back and he said yeah.

OP, i only briefly looked at your pics on my phone but when you are putting the two axles side by side, they arent even matched up correctly (one looks offset).

if you bought new axles from napa and the box said 'trakmotive' on them, you are good to go. i have been driving around on mine now for a week or two with zero issues. good on ya for getting new oil and diff seals too. the napa seals are made by SKF and also a great option. that is what i have in my rig.
You're right. I must be thinking of one of the other auto parts stores. Regardless, parts stores don't make any of the parts they sell. They're made for them by other companies and resold.
 
You're right. I must be thinking of one of the other auto parts stores. Regardless, parts stores don't make any of the parts they sell. They're made for them by other companies and resold.

i am well aware, the 'trakmotive' on both CV boxes and the SKF logo on the seal boxes being the biggest dead give away.

edit:
that being said, what was a big selling point for me was Napa's word honoring the warranty down the line. thank to all of you forum members, you helped me confirm that the new napa CVs are not only good to go, quality wise; but napa will actually stick to their word. its hard enough to get certain companies to warranty things.
 
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i am well aware, the 'trakmotive' on both CV boxes and the SKF logo on the seal boxes being the biggest dead give away.

edit:
that being said, what was a big selling point for me was Napa's word honoring the warranty down the line. thank to all of you forum members, you helped me confirm that the new napa CVs are not only good to go, quality wise; but napa will actually stick to their word. its hard enough to get certain companies to warranty things.
Sorry if I implied that you didn't know that. I added that info for anyone that stumbles across this in the future.
 
After doing some more reading, it seems NAPA sells both reman Cardones that can be problematic, and new ones that appears are sometimes SurTrack.

I also saw someone post about the different lengths of the inboard spline after the clip ring that fits in the diff.

In this case the NAPA (SurTrack) one I got looks to be about 1mm smaller than than my original one.. which may or may not be OEM. That said, the splines on my original one taper off a bit before reaching the end, and on the new one it's more "sharp". Disregarding the tapering, the length of the spline is about the same after the clip ring.

Does anyone know if the OEM one has a tapered axle between the two boots like mine is?
 
Sorry if I implied that you didn't know that. I added that info for anyone that stumbles across this in the future.

no worries, i was a little surprised to see napa using more than one vendor; but there are a bevy of reasons why i can think they would be different.

After doing some more reading, it seems NAPA sells both reman Cardones that can be problematic, and new ones that appears are sometimes SurTrack.

for how cheap the 'new' ones are from napa, it really is a no brainier to buy the new ones over remans. i believe remans are 30 bucks cheaper, but you have to return your old ones to get the core charge back (if you dont return the old ones its actually more expensive). the warranty sucks on the remans compared to the new ones. i thought i also remember reading that if you buy remans, you run the risk of getting different 'guts' or 'bones'.
 
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