fullspeed
Junior Member
The squeal issue sounds like maybe the wear indicator on the brake pads, have you checked the pads? Also, it could related to squeal plates that go on back side of pads. I use pads that don't need the plates.
Quick pull to one side while hard braking
- Thread starter mwrohde
- Start date
The squeal issue sounds like maybe the wear indicator on the brake pads, have you checked the pads? Also, it could related to squeal plates that go on back side of pads. I use pads that don't need the plates.
fullspeed
Junior Member
Relative to the issue about pulling when braking. I had this problem and found the issue, at least for my case, but it took awhile.
I sorta ruled out the rear brakes with the emergency brake handle, while driving or slowing, no matter how hard I pulled, there was no pull either way.
When I braked slightly with brake pedal while holding about 40 mph, there was no pull, it would keep going straight, even when I let it slow down gradually to a stop. This sorta ruled out the front brakes for me plus other tests, like spinning tires by hand and braking.
When I braked harder, like normal braking or sorta quick stop, it clearly pulled to the left, every time (very irritating).
Also, as a test, if at a dead stop, like at a red light, if I let foot off the brake pedal slightly let it role a few inches and immediately hit brake again (no gas pedal), the steering wheel would jerk left.
This also was indicator that this was more than a brake problem.
To make a long story short, it was a bad bushing in the LCA on the left side. But all the time, I kept thinking it had to be the brakes.
Hope this helps someone
I sorta ruled out the rear brakes with the emergency brake handle, while driving or slowing, no matter how hard I pulled, there was no pull either way.
When I braked slightly with brake pedal while holding about 40 mph, there was no pull, it would keep going straight, even when I let it slow down gradually to a stop. This sorta ruled out the front brakes for me plus other tests, like spinning tires by hand and braking.
When I braked harder, like normal braking or sorta quick stop, it clearly pulled to the left, every time (very irritating).
Also, as a test, if at a dead stop, like at a red light, if I let foot off the brake pedal slightly let it role a few inches and immediately hit brake again (no gas pedal), the steering wheel would jerk left.
This also was indicator that this was more than a brake problem.
To make a long story short, it was a bad bushing in the LCA on the left side. But all the time, I kept thinking it had to be the brakes.
Hope this helps someone
19963.4lsr5
New member
Did you ABS Activate? If so bleed them again now that the air has settled.
It took 3 bleeds without a vacuum pump to have a firm solid pedal.
Don’t pump the brakes and then open a bleeder.
Open a bleeder and push pedal to the floor-close bleeder-take foot off brake pedal. Bleed the rears first.
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I should rephrase that. It is a tire squeal when it's on the edge of loosing the grip. Pads are perfectly fine.
Abs activates only on the driver's wheel because it's overbraking or others are underbraking.
I've bled the system twice and the pedal is firm.
I've cleaned pads and rotors last week while checking the Pistons. They are looking good, no warping no uneven wear.
Wedgy
New member
I had the same issue come up after replacing all the suspension, front and rear brakes, bled them, replaced the rubber lines, replaced the rotors and calipers again and still pulled dangerously under hard braking. It was scary to drive. Three shops had it up on a rack and couldn't figure it out. I finally took the shocks off and I found the lower control arm bushing was shot. It had less than 1,000 miles on it but it was toast. Must have tore it wheeling is all I can think of. Got the NAPA bushing but found it was too thick(see photos)so I went with Energy Suspension which I think is a better design as the sleeve, bushing, and washers are separate and can rotate independently.
Energy Suspension 8.3132R Front Control Arm Bushing Set
Pics won't upload, will add later
Energy Suspension 8.3132R Front Control Arm Bushing Set
Pics won't upload, will add later
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Wikano
New member
When upgrading to tundra brakes or having lower quality aftermarket lca (even when newish), there is a lot more wear on the lca rear bushings and steering rack bushings. I've found that the rubber bushing don't hold up to our upgraded suspension, brakes, bigger tires, and extra weight. OEM lca bushing seem to hold up ok but you may want to invest in poly bushings for the lca and steering rack (the extra play transfers into the rack bushings). My alignment shop that works on a lot of lifted trucks reports the same thing.
OrRunner
New member
I've been chasing a leftward pull on hard braking also. I have TBU, new OEM lower control arms, new poly rack guides. I suspect a caliper issue because the ABS will always engage on left front before right front (if right front uses the ABS at all, usually it doesn't) and because I used some crappy callahan reman calipers for my TBU. I've been keeping an eye on the pads and they have worn evenly inside and outside and left and right, haven't gotten around to pulling them off and taking a better look though.
shadow247
New member
My best advice is to check your caliper slides, and also your steering rack guide (the one that's inside the rack behind the big nut).
mtbtim
Elite Member
This is exactly what I was going to say. When I had a brake pulling problem, it was for the same reason.
kleangpun88
New member
I'm having the same issues...everytime I brake, the steering wheel shakes then pulls left the harder I hit the brake. It was never like this until one day i decided i needed to replace my brake pads. I took the brake pads out and realized they were still in good shape so I just put them back. Ever since then it has been doing this
