Radiator Reservoir found empty (138k miles)

[gaber6]

If the tube isn't in contact/submerged with/in the coolant then it won't suck any coolant back into the radiator, you need to keep the coolant level up to the full line!

Get a hose that reaches the bottom for sure.

On a cold start, is there a sweet smell coming from the exhaust? A few drops of coolant is noticeable enough.

 

[BackOff]

So I definitely have a leak and it must be fairly big if it takes 2 weeks to drain it.

Where does the fluid go from the bottom of the reservoir?

Have you checked the waterpump, it can puke all over the front of the motor.
Can be hard to see from above, pull the front skid and look from below.

A black light or UV light will make our antifreeze glow bright pink, can help track down a leak.

Drop a couple pics in here someone may just be able see something you dont.

 

[Lolaya]

Have you checked the waterpump, it can puke all over the front of the motor.
Can be hard to see from above, pull the front skid and look from below.

A black light or UV light will make our antifreeze glow bright pink, can help track down a leak.

Drop a couple pics in here someone may just be able see something you dont.

So I finally had time and good weather to look more closely at everything after learning a bit more about the different parts of the radiator.

Definitely found the leak (after spotting the wet spot on road).

Here are some pictures:

In the second photo, the black plastic tube on the right leaking is the coolant release valve right? Is that leaking too? Does that mean it should be replaced?

 

[AuSeeker]

So I finally had time and good weather to look more closely at everything after learning a bit more about the different parts of the radiator.

Definitely found the leak (after spotting the wet spot on road).

Here are some pictures:

In the second photo, the black plastic tube on the right leaking is the coolant release valve right? Is that leaking too? Does that mean it should be replaced?

In your second photo the black plastic piece I see is one of the 2 side tanks on the radiator, on one of the side tanks there is a petcock/drain to drain the coolant from the radiator but it's not in your photos that I can see, all of the above are parts of the radiator, you just need to replace your radiator with a new one to correct the leaks in your photos, you can get a new Denso or Koyo radiator, both are of the highest quality and equal to OEM for about $100 plus the labor to install it.

I would as mentioned check the water pump as well, there is a small hole on the bottom of the shaft housing behind the cooling fan, that hole is where it would be leaking if it's bad,

 

[BackOff]

15 year old plastic radiator. Looks like your ready for a new one.
That petcock is just the drain for the radiator, has o-ring on it that could fail.
It would be on the back side of that 2nd pic.

AuSeeker said "soyo" think he ment KOYO...:jump:

Lol...is that a brain fart, like in made in china.

Thought i would mention too, that radiator i just replaced did not come with the 4 rubber mount bushings, you have to reuse the old ones.

 

[AuSeeker]

AuSeeker said "soyo" think he ment KOYO...:jump:

Lol...is that a brain fart, like in made in china.

Yes indeed it should be Koyo!

I corrected that in my post, Thanks!

I guess you could say it was a "brain fart" but at my age I call it CRS (Can't Remember $hit) LOL

 

[Lolaya]

In your second photo the black plastic piece I see is one of the 2 side tanks on the radiator, on one of the side tanks there is a petcock/drain to drain the coolant from the radiator but it's not in your photos that I can see, all of the above are parts of the radiator, you just need to replace your radiator with a new one to correct the leaks in your photos, you can get a new Denso or Koyo radiator, both are of the highest quality and equal to OEM for about $100 plus the labor to install it.

I would as mentioned check the water pump as well, there is a small hole on the bottom of the shaft housing behind the cooling fan, that hole is where it would be leaking if it's bad,

Thank you and everyone for their help. A new reputable mechanic im looking at is charging me $441 for radiator parts, labor, and coolant replace. Its a NAPA radiator with lifetime warranty.

Through costco I get a 15% discount. Comes out to ~375. Does this sound alright? Should I ask them to replace anything else? Coolant flush?

I have a gallon of the toyota super long life coolant Ill bring to them to use as I dont want them using any other one.

 

[AuSeeker]

Thank you and everyone for their help. A new reputable mechanic im looking at is charging me $441 for radiator parts, labor, and coolant replace. Its a NAPA radiator with lifetime warranty.

Through costco I get a 15% discount. Comes out to ~375. Does this sound alright? Should I ask them to replace anything else? Coolant flush?

I have a gallon of the toyota super long life coolant Ill bring to them to use as I dont want them using any other one.

I can't say if that's too much or not, but to me since I do my own mechanical work it sounds a little high since I could buy the parts and do the work for under $150 including coolant, shouldn't take longer than 1 1/2 hours, I could do it in an hour.

That being said the V6 cooling system holds a little over 2 1/2 gallons of coolant, I don't think 1 gallon will be enough, you might want to get another gallon just in case.

 

[techno]

A new reputable mechanic im looking at is charging me $441 for radiator parts, labor, and coolant replace. Its a NAPA radiator with lifetime warranty.
.

That price is good. I would have no hesitation paying that much if I didn't have tools and the know-how on how to replace such an important part.
No need to ask for a coolant flush. Most of the old stuff will drain out when the hoses are disconnected.

 

[Captsolo]

I check the overflow canister about once a week. Always right level in my 2005 4runner. Never had an overheat in 15 years.

Your radiator is definitely done.

NAPA radiator with lifetime guarantee is way to go. Get the receipt and keep it. NAPA will replace it if it ever fails.

2 gallons of coolant is enough. Zerex for Asian cars is pink. Amazon has it for $18 a gallon.

Hope you don’t have other issues. Overheats can ruin a V6 4.0.
I have same engine as you with 150,000 miles.

Thanks for the info on the NAPA radiator. That is a steal. I bought a starter with a lifetime warranty! Still have the box and the receipt. It's my third starter.

I'm on original WP (150,000 miles)



Life Expectancy of Water Pump? | Toyota Nation Forum

Toyota 4Runner Engine Water Pump. Main Engine Water Pump - 161006939883 | South Dade Toyota, Homestead FL

 

[firebirdguy]

water pumps typically last 4 years??? where do you come up with this stuff??

 

[y=mx+b]

WP typically last 4 years - on average IMO. The OEM WP that came with the new 4runner lasted 4 years.

Toyota 4Runner Engine Water Pump. Main Engine Water Pump - 161006939883 | South Dade Toyota, Homestead FL

Please check your information before posting. The water pump you linked is for a 3rd gen, 3.4 5vz-fe is a completely different engine and it would not work.



4.0 1GR-FE waterpump is here:
2003-2015 Toyota Water Pump Assembly 16100-09471 | Toyota Parts

and looks like this

 

[Captsolo]

Yeah. That was a mistype. That looks like the spare WP I have in the garage for when the OEM in my 2005 150,000 miles m4runner finally gives out. I mistakenly said it failed at 4 years, but that was incorrect. The starters fail on my 4runner every 4 years.

The WP in my 4runner is 15 years old and pumping strong. It's the OEM.

The coolant level is always at the same height in the catch canister - month after month. I use the best coolant money can buy in my 4 runner. Good coolant needs to be changed every 5 years IMO.

 

[Drcoffee]

CaptSolo, Are you sure you dont have a “knock off” Chinese Toyota 4runner. Your claims just dont match the forums experiences. As far as water pumps go, they are cheap and easy to replace. I dont wait to have mine fail. I replace the water pump and radiators at either 10 years or 100k miles. I dont have to, but I do it for peace of mind. Because when they fail, its never at a convenient time for me.

 

[Drcoffee]

I am so glad I can wrench. I cant imagine what other people have to pay for service on their vehicle. I got a quote from lexus on my 14 is350 for new spark plugs, they want $650 to replace 6 plugs on a V6 which took me 25 minutes and $55 in parts. That is flipping insane.

On my new to me 07 T4r I have done both cv axles, LBJs, radiator, water pump, ac condenser, full fluid replacement, added a tranny cooler, pulley bearings, spark plugs (iridium). I plan to change 3 fuel injectors and valve cover gaskets anf intake gaskets soon. How much would all this cost at a service shop?? It boggles the mind.

I guess thats why I love buying older Toyotas. I buy it cheap and make it new again.

 

[importman]

Yeah. That looks like the spare WP I have in the garage for when the OEM in my 2005 150,000 miles m4runner finally gives out. I mistakenly said it failed at 4 years, but that was incorrect. The starters fail on my 4runner every 4 years.

The WP in my 4runner is 15 years old and pumping strong.

The coolant level is always at the same height in the catch canister - month after month. I use the best coolant money can buy in my 4 runner. Good coolant needs to be changed every 5 years IMO.

I your starter is failing every 4 years you should be very thankful you didn't buy a V8. Do you run some sort of delivery route where you're constantly stopping and restarting all day long? Replacing starters every 4 years seems excessive to me, especially on a Toyota product.

 

[Captsolo]

We live in Nassau Bahamas and the 4runner gets started more than say a car in Miami that may see the average length of a trip at 100 miles.

Example: the grocery store is 2 miles away. Wife goes there every day - sometimes twice a day.

A new AM starter from Amazon is $100, so no big deal. The Toyota dealer over here wanted $900 to order OEM one from Japan. I swear to God they told me that 10 years ago. Dealers depend on your ignorance to make money. The starter here at an APS was $250.

Amazon.com: DB Electrical SND0491 Starter Compatible With/Replacement For Toyota Tacoma & Tundra 4.0L 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 & 4Runner 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 FJ Cruiser 2007 2008 2009: Automotive

PS.. Watch out for all the idiot (cheap) posters that are not mechanics and have nothing to say, but are just unemployed nit wits that spam this forum every day. Moderator should ban them.

Below is another starter for a Toyota, but Amazon says it will NOT fit my car. The $100 starter at the link above from DB electrical does fit my car according to Amazon's website.

Amazon.com: New Starter compatible with Toyota 4RUNNER V6 4.0 L 2003-2009 TUNDRA 2005-2010 17946: Automotive

 

[Bigcee]

So hey, OP, did you solve your problem? New radiator right?

 

[Warwicke36]

We live in Nassau Bahamas and the 4runner gets started more than say a car in Miami that may see the average length of a trip at 100 miles.

Example: the grocery store is 2 miles away. Wife goes there every day - sometimes twice a day.

A new AM starter from Amazon is $100, so no big deal. The Toyota dealer over here wanted $900 to order OEM one from Japan. I swear to God they told me that 10 years ago. Dealers depend on your ignorance to make money. The starter here at an APS was $250.

Amazon.com: DB Electrical SND0491 Starter Compatible With/Replacement For Toyota Tacoma & Tundra 4.0L 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 & 4Runner 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 FJ Cruiser 2007 2008 2009: Automotive

PS.. Watch out for all the idiot (cheap) posters that are not mechanics and have nothing to say, but are just unemployed nit wits that spam this forum every day. Moderator should ban them.

Below is another starter for a Toyota, but Amazon says it will NOT fit my car. The $100 starter at the link above from DB electrical does fit my car according to Amazon's website.

Amazon.com: New Starter compatible with Toyota 4RUNNER V6 4.0 L 2003-2009 TUNDRA 2005-2010 17946: Automotive

FFS you've infected this thread too? 200K and 16 years on my OEM starter. Just stop posting. For the love of God. Join a fishing forum where you can irritate them with your pictures from 2007 of a boat you no longer own and fish someone else caught for you. Or I can keep slaughtering your every statement in every thread until you get it through your head you don't know shit about cars. Period.

And before you start throwing insults my way I am an ASE certified tech, with 17 years experience and a degree in the field. Every single person on this forum knows more than you. The moderators should block your IP for the misinformation you spread.

 

[Warwicke36]

fo ah

I gots close to $3 Mil in assets/cars and boats.

What your cheap ass and brain get you? coronavirus 19?

Post so we know you are not just FOS.

You are a draft dodging little baby.

What branch of the service were you in?

Yeah, there hasn't been a draft in my lifetime. But nice try grandpa.

You could and should use this space as a wealth of knowledge to help you. Instead you insist on posting self aggrandizing nonsense far outside the scope of this forum. You have become the laughing stock of this place in very short order. Take a second to reflect on that. Stifle that very fragile ego you have and listen instead of talk. Read and injest the knowlege these members have to offer instead of feeling the need to have diarrhea of the keyboard on a daily basis.

I tried to offer you insight in your thread based on 13 years of documented evidence, instead of listening you immediately turned to insults. I have more automotive knowlege in my pinky than you have attained in 73 years. Others on this forum know more than I do and I am happy and grateful to learn from them. So why don't you sit the next couple of plays out there Mr self proclaimed all American. You might learn a thing or 2.