Raise rear shock mounts

[4x4runner2002]

No rubbing with 285s and 3.5 in bs wheels.

 

[D Farms]

other issues would be brake lines, parking brake, wheel speed sensor lines, and increased wear on your bushings and possible binding on the driveshaft slip joint. just check all of these things.

 

[AssBurns]

I'll check that stuff out. Thanks for all the advice! I've never done anything close to something like this but I've been thinking about it for a while now and I'm finally about to get my shocks next paycheck. Just bought my Toytec/Eibach front coils and diff drop today. I can't quite decide on what rear shocks to get. Plan on 5125's but not exactly sure what length to go with I'm thinking somewhere between 9-10" of travel. There is a lot to consider for this setup and I'm hoping it will be worth all the extra work

 

[JayRolla]

IMO your thinking about this way to hard. Lower the bump stops 3". Remove cone stops all together. This will stop over compression of shocks. Eliminate coil from popping out and will allow you to run larger than 285 tires without slamming into the upper wheel well. Run some lc oem shocks. Since the oem shocks are a little stiffer than say billies they will tighten up the soft 8 wraps for a great ride on the street.

This way no cutting welding or modification to other parts. With 8 wraps and stock shock location you will be flexing the driveshaft into the gas tank. Any more travel will make it worse.

 

[AssBurns]

IMO your thinking about this way to hard. Lower the bump stops 3". Remove cone stops all together. This will stop over compression of shocks. Eliminate coil from popping out and will allow you to run larger than 285 tires without slamming into the upper wheel well. Run some lc oem shocks. Since the oem shocks are a little stiffer than say billies they will tighten up the soft 8 wraps for a great ride on the street.

This way no cutting welding or modification to other parts. With 8 wraps and stock shock location you will be flexing the driveshaft into the gas tank. Any more travel will make it worse.

I am overthinking it and I could do all the stuff you are saying but it would make for a fun weekend project and I've always liked the outboard rear shocks. I pulled my rear sway bar off this morning and trimmed the cone bump stops a little bit and it stuffs perfectly up in my wheel well now at bump stops. I wouldn't really want it going any further up in there now. I definitely don't want to extend the bumps though. Fitting some shocks between the tire and frame is going to be a real tight fit but definitely possible.
You can see how stuffed the tire gets in the wheel well with the cone bumps trimmed. I wasn't ever hitting the regular bump stops before but now I can do it with ease. I cant wait to get my shocks now.







and yes I am missing a lug nut on each wheel. They had wheel locks from the last owner and he had lost the key. I haven't put new lugs on yet haha

 

[maclean216]

When you guys post pics, can you show droop and stuff? I'd like to see both sides maxed out.

 

[AssBurns]

Here you go. It's not fully drooped but the other side was fully stuffed up to bump stops. It was pretty damn close to being fully drooped though.

From the back. Not a good shot since there was a bush and I was short on time to get good pics

 

[AssBurns]

So as of right now I'm running LC80 coils and shocks with stock bump stops. I'm about to install my Bilstein 7100 12" shocks tomorrow. Here is the reason you shouldn't run longer shocks without extended bump stops. The shock is fully compressed and it's about 1" from hitting the bump stop in the pic. My plan for the new shocks is to not have to run extended bump stops while getting the same or more down travel and not over compressing my shocks.

Fully compressed

Fully extended

Plan on making mounts similar to this

 

[D Farms]

keep in mind that if you angle the shock away from the axis of travel, you can actually have more travel than if it is inline with the axis of travel, but the rate of damping will decrease going from fully extended to fully compressed.

ive made a constrained model here using the 9.345 travel shock and a 21 inch control arm, then I have simply changed the angle at which the shock is mounted by having it move forward on a horizontal line which is like the frame rail. even in ripcords picture his shock is angled away from the axis of travel.

 

[AssBurns]

Thanks! I plan on having about a 15° forward angle on the shocks. It will help increase travel slightly and clearance since it won't be where the wheel is furthest towards the cab at full flex. And since the shock angle will only be slightly angled the dampening should only be reduced around 5-10%

 

[D Farms]

Thanks! I plan on having about a 15° forward angle on the shocks. It will help increase travel slightly and clearance since it won't be where the wheel is furthest towards the cab at full flex. And since the shock angle will only be slightly angled the dampening should only be reduced around 5-10%

you will actually have less angle than stock, because the stock shocks are angled in about 30 degrees or so.

 

[AssBurns]

Yeah that's the plan. I don't want too much dampening to be lost by going more than 30°. That's one of the points of going outboard with the shocks. I may end up going closer to around 20° angle but I don't think I will need to go as far as 30°. Since I'm going to be running a 12" travel shock I would run into other issues like spitting a coil or binding the stock 4 link if I tried to go for more travel with a 30° angle. I am going to try to find a sweet spot with the angle to find out the most I can go without having to run limit straps. Im already hitting my gas tank skid at full flex right now but I plan on hammering that in as far as possible to avoid that issue. Tomorrow I am going to mock everything up to see how far I can go and start making the mounts. Hopefully I will be finished Saturday sometime

 

[AssBurns]

Well here is we're I've gotten to today. I've made the panhard drop bracket and almost finished the first upper mount.

 

[AssBurns]

Almost done with the upper mounts. The frame is plated along the inside and boxed in the area that has been notched with 3/16 plate. Waiting for some paint to dry so I can weld them up to the frame and add some frame plates on the outside of the frame. Then I can start at the lower mounts first thing in the morning

 

[JBurt]

without straps how are you going to limit down travel?

Are you going to still run the sway bar or just use the shocks?

 

[AssBurns]

When I'm Offroading I will be running no sway bar. When daily driving I'll throw the sway bar back on. I plan on just using the shocks to limit down travel. Since I'm not going to be jumping or going over whoops I shouldn't need to worry too much about hard shock rebound since it's more for rock crawling and slower driving. I still may need to strap it if the shocks extend past the length of the coils and the coils pop out. LC coils are pretty tall so I shouldn't need to worry too much but we'll see.

Also an update on the progress. Upper mounts are done. Lower mounts are welded up but not to the axle yet.

 

[glenyoshida]

How did the outboards turn out? What did you end up liking about it and what would you do differently?

 

[AssBurns]

I really like the whole setup. It was a lot of work but in the long run I have better shocks and more travel than I would have with a regular lift. I don't think I would be able to do much differently. Thinking back on the whole thing, I may have been able to get longer shocks and just run limit straps and extended bump stops but the whole reason was to keep stock up travel.

 

[AssBurns]

Here is a pic from one of my first runs after I finished the shocks

 

[glenyoshida]

Nice flex, especially considering you are able to use the stock bump stops. Looks like it was a great project to do. If you happen to know the part number of the shocks you used I'd be curious.

Really cool you documented this and posted up the pics. Nice welding BTW.