ran into a few minor snags with my Infiniti projector retrofit-

BlackCat914

New member
[So, last night I got started on my retrofit, and I have my first snag. My infiniti ballasts are not sealed, they were bolted in the bottom of the M37 headlights, so I need to find some sort of dry box to mount them in. I was looking at Otterboxes last night, does anyone have any suggestions or ideas? Also, does anyone know how the brights work? I wired the diffuser motor, and it works, but the light shuts off with the brights on. Any help would be great! A few teaser pics

20130423_164646_zpsbff19374.jpg~original


20130423_182127_zps9c301461.jpg~original
 
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From what I've read, most people just use a tube of silicone and go over the seams to "seal/protect" the OEM ballasts from dirt/water. I've been on the fence about doing a retrofit, but cant justify the cost at the moment.
 
Mount them inside your existing headlights. No need for an ottobox.

As for wiring. Wire the Ballest to the running lights. This will keep them on anytime your lights are on. Wire the diffuser circuit to the High Beam wiring. When you activate the high beams, it will move the diffuser in and out.
 
Mount them inside your existing headlights. No need for an ottobox.

As for wiring. Wire the Ballest to the running lights. This will keep them on anytime your lights are on. Wire the diffuser circuit to the High Beam wiring. When you activate the high beams, it will move the diffuser in and out.

no no, the low beams are working just fine, no issues there. When I flip the high beams on, the headlight shuts off, but the hi-beam diffuser activates. Not sure where the problem lies.

As far as the ballast, where in the factory toyota headlight is there room for a ballast? Let alone in a spot that can't be seen from through the headlight?
 
From what I've read, most people just use a tube of silicone and go over the seams to "seal/protect" the OEM ballasts from dirt/water. I've been on the fence about doing a retrofit, but cant justify the cost at the moment.

Ok, my first thought was about heat, but I guess I can get some high temp silicone and run it around the borders and seams.
 
no no, the low beams are working just fine, no issues there. When I flip the high beams on, the headlight shuts off, but the hi-beam diffuser activates. Not sure where the problem lies.

As far as the ballast, where in the factory toyota headlight is there room for a ballast? Let alone in a spot that can't be seen from through the headlight?
Yea uhm. You see. The low beam circuit cuts off when the high beams come one. You need to wire them to come on all the time thus using the running light (parking Light) circuit.

As for the ballast, Seal them up with silicone . But pictures will help clarify the problem.
 
Yea uhm. You see. The low beam circuit cuts off when the high beams come one. You need to wire them to come on all the time thus using the running light (parking Light) circuit.

As for the ballast, Seal them up with silicone . But pictures will help clarify the problem.

Is one of the 3 connections on the factory headlight connector for the parking lights? I guess I just need to spend a bit more time out in the garage with the test light and sort it out.

This is the only picture I have uploaded that shows the bottom side of the Infiniti ballast. The M37 headlight is very large and has a composite shell around the headlight assembly that is water-tight as well. The ballast is screwed into the composite portion and sealed with a large o-ring.

 
The three wires in the head light harness is not the parking light. The corner light that is the parking light circuit.
 
The three wires in the head light harness is not the parking light. The corner light that is the parking light circuit.

ok, maybe this is me being horrible at electrical work, but if the highbeams work with halogen bulbs not tied into the parking light circuit, why do these need to be tied into that circuit? I don't get it.
 
HID's need to be on all the time. HID's work both the low beam and the high beam.

The stock Halogens in your runner work like this. The low beam work, then when you flip the high beams on, the high beam circuit is energised and the low beam circuit is off and then vice versa.

The only circuit on the 4runner that is both on during high - lo beam operation is the parking light circuit.
 
HID's need to be on all the time. HID's work both the low beam and the high beam.

The stock Halogens in your runner work like this. The low beam work, then when you flip the high beams on, the high beam circuit is energised and the low beam circuit is off and then vice versa.

The only circuit on the 4runner that is both on during high - lo beam operation is the parking light circuit.

Ahh, makes sense. Thanks for clarifying.
 
Another option if Singtoe is on the right track would be to run a standard relay. I havent testing the wires at the bulb but the way he is trying to explain it is that the power source when you turn the highbeam on switches wires, and that is why your "highbeam" is turning off, because the ballast is losing power.

The parking (corner) lights are always on in any lights "on" situation, but if you tie into them you cannot run parking lights alone without headlights (I know I need to have this function for VA inspection)

(generic relay posts found on interwebz)
5498d1271820036-fuel-pump-relay-problem-02-016b-small.jpg


Post 85- Both OEM high/low wires
Post 86- Ground
Post 30- 12v Battery
Post 87- HID Ballast 12v (+)
Post 87a- Unused

Some relays do not have a 87a option. Depends on what you have available.
 
Another option if Singtoe is on the right track would be to run a standard relay. I havent testing the wires at the bulb but the way he is trying to explain it is that the power source when you turn the highbeam on switches wires, and that is why your "highbeam" is turning off, because the ballast is losing power.

The parking (corner) lights are always on in any lights "on" situation, but if you tie into them you cannot run parking lights alone without headlights (I know I need to have this function for VA inspection)

(generic relay posts found on interwebz)
5498d1271820036-fuel-pump-relay-problem-02-016b-small.jpg


Post 85- Both OEM high/low wires
Post 86- Ground
Post 30- 12v Battery
Post 87- HID Ballast 12v (+)
Post 87a- Unused

Some relays do not have a 87a option. Depends on what you have available.

The problem with this is that he will lose his ability to use the high beam. If he didn't want to use the running light circuit, He could use a diode between the high beam circuit and the low beam circuit.

When the low beam is on, the Hid is powered. When the high beam is on, the HID is still powered and the diffuser is now activated.

The diode will prevent the high beams from working when the low beam circuit is powered.

diode.jpg

Need a good size diode though.
 
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Have you tried searching hidplanet or TRS's website or google ...

You may not find a 4runner retrofit but you should find something similar.

Btw, did you pay a lot for those projectors, how much?
 
Have you tried searching hidplanet or TRS's website or google ...

You may not find a 4runner retrofit but you should find something similar.

Btw, did you pay a lot for those projectors, how much?

found this on TRS, which is exactly what I need, or I could use the diode like singtoe mentioned.
Bi-xenon: 'MotoControl 9003/H4/HB2 - Relay Harnesses from The Retrofit Source Inc

The projectors are $1,200/ea. I'm the Service Director for an Infiniti store. there was a '12 M37x that was involved in a front end collision and both headlights were replaced because the mounting hardware was damaged during the accident. They were free for me since it was an insurance claim and these were being thrown away.
 
ah you found it! I was just gonna tell you what you needed. That relay will help you keep your hi-beams. Post pics when your done with the retrofit that's awesome you got such a killer deal!
 
ah you found it! I was just gonna tell you what you needed. That relay will help you keep your hi-beams. Post pics when your done with the retrofit that's awesome you got such a killer deal!

thanks dude! I can't believe that I didn't think of it before. I was just getting ready to pull the trigger on an FX-R kit, but it dawned on me that most bodyshops have a ton of old headlights laying around waiting for the scrap guy to come pick them up. Obviously, I have a hookup with our bodyshop, but I'm sure anyone could call some local bodyshops and offer a few bucks for a broken set of headlights.
 
yeah man thats cool. You might be able to make some sort of profit off of those if those kinds of cars keep coming in?? I may have to go snoop around at some body shops when i do my next retrofit.

But anyway I cant remember exactly, but I believe that relay wires into the ballast which plugs into one side of your OEM head light plug. That will make the little flaps in the projector spread the light out more.

BTW I don't have any seals on my ballasts. The are the old DDM apexicone one's. I've gone almost 2 years now i think without any protection.
 
yeah man thats cool. You might be able to make some sort of profit off of those if those kinds of cars keep coming in?? I may have to go snoop around at some body shops when i do my next retrofit.

But anyway I cant remember exactly, but I believe that relay wires into the ballast which plugs into one side of your OEM head light plug. That will make the little flaps in the projector spread the light out more.

BTW I don't have any seals on my ballasts. The are the old DDM apexicone one's. I've gone almost 2 years now i think without any protection.

I have the diffuser working, just no light! haha, I'll get the relays eventually from Morimoto and call it a day. Since I'm using all Infiniti components, I'm getting rid of my H4 style factory connector and using the small clip style connector that comes with the Infiniti stuff. Should make the install a lot cleaner looking. I'm a perfectionist when it comes to that stuff, so I'll definitely be taking my time to make everything look nice. I'd really like to seal my ballasts, since they're like $600 to replace, and I might not be so lucky finding another free one in the future, lol.
 

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