simple
Senior Member
I've seen this done a lot on the 5th gen and think it looks mean. I didn't think this could be done on the 4th gen but saw somebody selling their 4th gen grill with these and saw that some others have tried it too.
So this is simple's way to do it. And there's 10k other ways to do it too, so if you've got a better way, share with the crowd.
These are what I used:
LED Marker Lights
22 Gauge Silicone wires
Wire Sleeve
switch
Expensive, but I use Posi-taps and posi-locks for the wire connections now. Good and reversible.
I ended using zip ties to secure the lights to the grill. I ended up drilling holes in the vertical beams supporting the LED and feeding the zip tie through there, but not necessary.
I then tied together both lights into 1 harness, again using posi-locks, but I also used a set of quick disconnect male/female pins to connect the grill harness to the main wiring harness. This allows me to remove the grill easily without having to touch the main harness. Thats what's under the black electrical tape here.
Ended up feeding the wires through the hood insulation which keeps it 'clean-ish'. I ended up popping one of the insulation clips which made it easier. But now I have to replace that clip. You could probably do it with a coat hangar.
Wire popped out by the hinge and I just kind of tucked it away to keep it clear of the hinge and hood when opening/closing.
You can see I routed it under that black trim piece. Theres a fastener there that you can see popped up. Thats not the OEM one, mine was missing already so it was easy to lift up, though I think you can do it with a coat hangar. That's another fastener I have to replace... my non OEM one isn't doing it.
This was my biggest hesitation; routing it into the vehicle itself. You could use an Add a fuse and run it directly from the engine fuse box, but couldn't really identify one I liked or wanted to use. Plus I wanted to be able to turn it off manually. I think another thread said they tapped the seat heater fuse in there.
I didn't want to puncture a hole in the firewall gasket, so ended up routing my wires through the hole for the hood release cable. The 22 gauge wires were perfect, but too pliable, so I used a coat hangar. Didn't make any new holes, but I ended up putting a dab of silicone there to help seal. I also ended the wire sleeve there and its just the wires routing into the cab.
Once inside you can use an add a fuse off the interior fuse box as well, but I opted for a switch. I ran my wires to the center console and tapped the wires per the directions on the switch.
-Source wire tapped off the cigarete lighter pos
-Ground wire tapped off the cig lighter neg
-Relay to the pos wire from my LED lights. I ended up grounding the LED neg wire to one of the bolts under the lower dash.
- Illum wire I tapped off the green DAC button wire. I ended up running out of posi-taps so I removed it so I could power my lights, but it does work. Another reason I love the positaps, they're reusable, so I just taped of the wire until I get more in.
Only 'aux lights'illuminates when the headlights are on, but there's some pretty decent light bleed over to the light image, which illumantes when the LED are activated.
So this is simple's way to do it. And there's 10k other ways to do it too, so if you've got a better way, share with the crowd.
These are what I used:
LED Marker Lights
22 Gauge Silicone wires
Wire Sleeve
switch
Expensive, but I use Posi-taps and posi-locks for the wire connections now. Good and reversible.
I ended using zip ties to secure the lights to the grill. I ended up drilling holes in the vertical beams supporting the LED and feeding the zip tie through there, but not necessary.
I then tied together both lights into 1 harness, again using posi-locks, but I also used a set of quick disconnect male/female pins to connect the grill harness to the main wiring harness. This allows me to remove the grill easily without having to touch the main harness. Thats what's under the black electrical tape here.
Ended up feeding the wires through the hood insulation which keeps it 'clean-ish'. I ended up popping one of the insulation clips which made it easier. But now I have to replace that clip. You could probably do it with a coat hangar.
Wire popped out by the hinge and I just kind of tucked it away to keep it clear of the hinge and hood when opening/closing.
You can see I routed it under that black trim piece. Theres a fastener there that you can see popped up. Thats not the OEM one, mine was missing already so it was easy to lift up, though I think you can do it with a coat hangar. That's another fastener I have to replace... my non OEM one isn't doing it.
This was my biggest hesitation; routing it into the vehicle itself. You could use an Add a fuse and run it directly from the engine fuse box, but couldn't really identify one I liked or wanted to use. Plus I wanted to be able to turn it off manually. I think another thread said they tapped the seat heater fuse in there.
I didn't want to puncture a hole in the firewall gasket, so ended up routing my wires through the hole for the hood release cable. The 22 gauge wires were perfect, but too pliable, so I used a coat hangar. Didn't make any new holes, but I ended up putting a dab of silicone there to help seal. I also ended the wire sleeve there and its just the wires routing into the cab.
Once inside you can use an add a fuse off the interior fuse box as well, but I opted for a switch. I ran my wires to the center console and tapped the wires per the directions on the switch.
-Source wire tapped off the cigarete lighter pos
-Ground wire tapped off the cig lighter neg
-Relay to the pos wire from my LED lights. I ended up grounding the LED neg wire to one of the bolts under the lower dash.
- Illum wire I tapped off the green DAC button wire. I ended up running out of posi-taps so I removed it so I could power my lights, but it does work. Another reason I love the positaps, they're reusable, so I just taped of the wire until I get more in.
Only 'aux lights'illuminates when the headlights are on, but there's some pretty decent light bleed over to the light image, which illumantes when the LED are activated.
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