ratchet strap KDSS

CSM4runner said:
MountainClimber78- I think I'm tracking and I have tons of 550 cord. So you never released the two kdss bleeder valves? You just used the jack to release the pressure? I was hoping if i used coil compressors i wouldn't have to undo the 2 KDSS bolts.
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I never used the screws/bolts to relieve pressure. It really isn't pressurized at rest but the cylinder will return to its normal position if it's not tied off. Again, my system of components may be different (Camburg UCAs and 6112s) when I had put everything together the front suspension was pretty much fully extended. I needed to use a ratchet strap to pull the ends of the sway bar into position in order to bolt it up.
 
You don't have to remove you rear links if you're not upgrading but removing one of the bolts will allow you to push the rear axle down further

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So I spent 10 hours doing the lift. What a royal PITA. Its still not done and sitting on a lift in the Army self help garage. They stayed open an extra 2 hours helping me. It seems like i got everything done i just have to put it all back together. Today's my anniversary so no way I can work on it. Wife would kill me.

I'm a little worried about the angle of the UCA ball joint. I haven't put it on the ground yet to tighten through bolt.

The through bolts for the UCA (passenger side) completely kicked my butt...

Trying to get the skid plate back on completely kicked my butt...I just read antmans thread on shaving off the hooks. I'll try that tomorrow. I was ready to throw it in the dumpster.


https://imgur.com/cPikxtB

https://imgur.com/EzpBPRf
 
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Are you referring to the long bolt? Did you move power steering line off the plastic or rubber clamp? That allows you room to push the bolt back through the UCA. Did you turn the kdss bleeder three times counter clockwise? If you did then you need to let the truck settle for at least 15 minutes then close the valves. Don't torque the lower shock bolts front and rear until the truck is on the ground. If you did then it will bend it so just loosen them then retorque them

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Kdss is a pain but once you do the install and work with not against the system, it's not that bad

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We just install icon stage 2 on my friend 2016 tep non kdss. It was easy but the snag was icon ball joint directions were crappy. They assemble them tight so you couldn't separate them by hand to install in the UCA

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I ended up installing them in the spindle then I was able to loosen the top nut to disassemble it.

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ToyRunner4Me

I didn't turn the KDSS bleeder valve and I did torque the bolts. I guess I'll loosen them and let truck settle before I retorque them.
 
You can pm me if you need further tips. It took us 12 hours to do mine with kdss because of snags. Now that I have done it, it would be less time consuming.

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Guess I was lucky...took 6 hours with 6112/5160 and T13 rear springs...two people in the garage. That second person was extremely helpful for the rear driver's side spring install.
 
Like others have said, all 4 wheels off the ground, other wise opening the valves is useless because there is load on the wheels that are still on the ground. Turn both valves on the KDSS (I went full 3 turns). Tip: draw a vertical line on the valve bolts so it's easier to count your turns. I was too lazy to jack up the whole car. I still opened the valves, used a jack to compress the piston and speed clamp to bring the sway bar up to the arm.
4ecb786f110e982897ffe87e73b8d56b.jpg



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The kdss valve being open works in your favor if the rig was on four jack stands. I forgot to tell you to mark the valves. I did the same thing. The clamp method you show on your pic, I did that on the passenger side

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I used the clamp and a stick to guide the kdss bracket into position. I used the hook on the bracket to line up the holes

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If the rig is on jack stands then when you take the kdss bracket on the passenger side off then when you go to put it back, you would use the floor jack to push up the driver side so it gets the bar closer to the lower control arm which will allow you to align the bracket using clamp and a stick to the bracket hook to guide the holes into alignment

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So day 2 complete and its still not done. i thought I had everything installed and drove it 200 meters to firestone for the alignment. Once it was aligned I was driving home when it started making an awful noise. I went back to firestone where they discovered the Camburg UCA ball joint on passenger side was "seriously" loose. I tightened it to specs while on lift but didn't retighten it once it was on the ground. I'm guessing that could've been catastrophic. Also, while i was driving home the Slip Indicator Light came on and stayed on. I 110% regret doing this....I'm seriously thinking of removing lift and going back to stock. Its still sitting at firestone......:redbrick:
 
Bummer to hear about your UCA. We had the same problem with my friend icon. We had it on jack stands. I torque the nut. We went to jack the lower control arm and the ball joint slips on the spindle. We lower it and re-torque. No more movement. We check the driver side to make sure no movement

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What I believe happen is since it was on jack stands and we had the jack on the lower control arm, the ball joint didn't fully seat in the spindle. I believe that when we did the driver, the jack was not on the lower control arm

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