The ultimate kdss fix

dom42

New member
Alright guys. I’ve made two new parts that will help prolong the life of the kdss system. I have so much hard use testing in baja. I’m confident none of my parts will fail in your world.

First part and is the most important part that I’ve made. They are billet locking clamps to replace the factory rubber strap / metal strap that the factory uses to attempt to keep the front sway bar from sliding thru the bushing causing the whole thing to shift over and I’m most cases it shifts over to driver side
And pulls the kdss shock body with it and in turn you will chase a knock. That knock is the front kdss shock smacking the actual frame. This in turn will lead to the shaft being leverage when the shock body bottoms out on the frame. These clamps literally put and end to the sway bar trying to slide thru.

Here’s what’s he stock rubber rings look like when they fail :
9281cdf46dd4d68dc42504889a1b70ec.jpg


The fix:
358f5913047c9100e13c0ecb1cd59176.jpg



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yeah buddy! cant wait to install these and the adaptors soon as it cools off here. Tired of looking at my siberian bushings all squished out from the sway bar angle lol.
 
Nice!

Nice job, those look great. It clamps over the oem bushing? Whats the other item you said you have made? 2 parts you said. Hope you have another idea, that one is great.
 
Ok here’s the next part. Everyone knows when you lift a kdss equipped 4r or gx, the sway bar system has to swing back towards the motor. After a certain amount of lift or down travel. The passenger side runs out of travel because the hard link can not extend and when you end up with is contact between the hard link on pass side and the frame. This will put you droop to a dead stop. Also is a source of why kdss will have a passenger side low lean in som cases.

Well the fox typically was the front drop spacer. This helped by pushing the sway bar back forward because geometry wise that just physically has to happen you have two points that are pivoting off each other ( link and sway bar ). Well the problem with the drop spacer is that it did just that. Lowered the sway bar which caused one to have to modify the skids for it to work and still it will make contact under certain suspension cycling. I hated how low it was.

Anyway , this new part being as thick as I made it , and the mounting holes to actually mount the sway bar back up is slightly raised and clocked pushing the sway bar back forward away from the frame. The clocking will put the bad bushing angle that is created when lifting kdss into the perfect angle… in turn the bushing life will now be extended 100x.

Below is what I’m talking about when not running a drop spacer or my new part. You can see the hard link is resting on the frame and the whole sway bar system can no longer swing back putting your droop to a stop.
1dd567669847f41cbde1288efe68e39e.jpg


The new end adapters shown below will not allow this but also it fixes the bad bushing angle like I mention. Example below

Bad bushing angle (
c4fd8eb8df0b6a526fa82139a6c1d3bf.jpg


Corrected bushing angle with the new adapters
eb523c861fb260b1445a92cbec23b30c.jpg


New end adapters do not work with the front kdss drop spacer unless you have some ridiculously large bracket lift or something. The point was to keep the sway bar up nice and high.



I hope you guys find your way …. #kdsstothenextlevel


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dom, i knocked out the collars and the adaptor plates today. literally took me an hour, smoothest, easiest mod i've done. i'd throw pics up but i cant ever get it to work on the desktop version. sent you some via IG.
 
dom, i knocked out the collars and the adaptor plates today. literally took me an hour, smoothest, easiest mod i've done. i'd throw pics up but i cant ever get it to work on the desktop version. sent you some via IG.


Idk what you are talking about bro [emoji28][emoji41][emoji1787][emoji1420]


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Dom came through, even when i had to deal with BS issues with USPS.

thanks mang.
 

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easy install...

i gotta do the clamps tomorrow cuz its in the middle of a heatwave and i aint got no shade...


Dom's video's on youtube make it really easy to install. Word of advice, use a big ass breaker bar to make life easier.:reddance:
 

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easy install...

i gotta do the clamps tomorrow cuz its in the middle of a heatwave and i aint got no shade...


Dom's video's on youtube make it really easy to install. Word of advice, use a big ass breaker bar to make life easier.:reddance:

noice dude. clamps are wicked easy as well. He said pre 2019 or something have to do some clearance on the kdss cylinder boot clamp, but mine fit under it just fine. tight enough to hold his clamp on the sway bar in place actually.
 
noice dude. clamps are wicked easy as well. He said pre 2019 or something have to do some clearance on the kdss cylinder boot clamp, but mine fit under it just fine. tight enough to hold his clamp on the sway bar in place actually.

thanks for the advice, I just gave up because its way too hot right now. I be crispy, and fried right now. I got no shade or cover, so i'll wake up tomorrow early, and bang it out. I think i can probably do it in like 15 min, but the heat sucks the motivation out of me...lol.
 
How did you do Mr blah, did it ever cool off?

Just got my order in for the KDSS switch, am excited...fasted spent tax return ever though...lol
 
Idk what you are talking about bro [emoji28][emoji41][emoji1787][emoji1420]


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Hey Dom, just ordered your control kit harness for KDSS and also the front sway bar billet clamps.

After watching your installation video of the sway bar clamps, you mention that you do not adjust the accumulator valves, or something, on the kdss system, you said instead you use the KDSS Control you installed previously.

My question is do you turn on the KDSS control and when you turn off the vehicle the KDSS is still disconnected? Just not sure to how you were using the KDSS control and what effect it has while you are trying to put upward pressure on the sway bar with the jack. Is this necessary?

Thanks Dom,looking forward to installing this setup.
 
Hey Dom, just ordered your control kit harness for KDSS and also the front sway bar billet clamps.

After watching your installation video of the sway bar clamps, you mention that you do not adjust the accumulator valves, or something, on the kdss system, you said instead you use the KDSS Control you installed previously.

My question is do you turn on the KDSS control and when you turn off the vehicle the KDSS is still disconnected? Just not sure to how you were using the KDSS control and what effect it has while you are trying to put upward pressure on the sway bar with the jack. Is this necessary?

Thanks Dom,looking forward to installing this setup.


yep. install harness. flip the switch so "kdss" light is on. system will be in open mode even when the key is off. floor jack under the piston side of sway bar to relieve pressure, zip off the bolts. install everything. I use a big clamp to pull the sway bar back to the LCA when re installing in conjunction with the floor jack under your nice new clamps.


and yes, pull the skid plate. aint enough room
 

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