RATS! source for the OEM Toyota soy wires? Want to run a rat-proofing test.

[JeuTheIdit]

Alright...
I have some WoolWax on order :bravo::bravo:, and some Cosmoline from the last application.
I can swing somewhere and grab Fluid Film, but WoolWax is a more concentrated/thicker version.

I can start the rat test on the 25th.
I wish I had a way to record/stream it without spending on equipment to do so.

The degradation test will, as I said, take a long time unless anyone can think of a way to speed it up.
Making metal rust is easy with some peroxide, vinegar and salt.

Will be a pretty cool test. Interested in both results since I use WoolWax!

Thanks for calling those of us that apply this stuff annually insane. :laugh:

Woolwax in my experience is still under the car after a year of use. I even have a nice solid dirt coating in some places because I never wash it off. It would be nice to not have to do it annually though. I really do not think it is necessary in most places to do it that often, but I am pretty OCD when it comes to rust lol.

Maybe I will look into other options eventually like you did... I always thought that putting all products on a piece of metal and placing it under the truck would be cool. I know people have done it before but I would like to see for myself.

 

[delloro]

Cat & mouse...
Interesting research.

Only one—a class of proteins found in urine and other secretions known as Mups, for major urinary proteins—elicited the same fear response as the whole predator scent in the mice. Most terrestrial vertebrates excrete Mups, and they are thought to play a role in intraspecies communication.
The Scent That Makes Mice Run Scared | Science | AAAS

Go ahead and put cat piss derivatives on your car and see if other cats in the neighborhood don't contribute more. You won't have rats, but you will have plenty of cat piss.

 

[Nobody Special]

Will be a pretty cool test. Interested in both results since I use WoolWax!

Thanks for calling those of us that apply this stuff annually insane. :laugh:

Woolwax in my experience is still under the car after a year of use. I even have a nice solid dirt coating in some places because I never wash it off. It would be nice to not have to do it annually though. I really do not think it is necessary in most places to do it that often, but I am pretty OCD when it comes to rust lol.

Maybe I will look into other options eventually like you did... I always thought that putting all products on a piece of metal and placing it under the truck would be cool. I know people have done it before but I would like to see for myself.

That is for Fluid Film and a few other products.
I like WoolWax.
It is basically a thicker Fluid Film.

 

[Irish Mike]

harness

Did you find enough wire to complete your tests? I work at a dealer in Iowa and we get a ton of rodent chewed harnesses from the farmers. I could easily ship out a harness or parts of...
We generally cut the connectors off the ends and save those in case we need a connector down the road for a repair but the rest of the harness goes in the garbage.
Feel free to pm me and I can try to get you one.

 

[M_RED]

This is a well-known problem among Auto OEMs. Honda has addressed this concern with cayenne pepper-infused wiring harness sheaths. no joke!

I can guarantee the rats won't stop when the peanut butter is gone. seriously,,, try hot sauce..

Honda's Chili-Flavored Wire Wrap Could Save Your Car From a Rodent Invasion

Genuine Honda Rodent Tape - 4019-2317

 

[Irish Mike]

This is a well-known problem among Auto OEMs. Honda has addressed this concern with cayenne pepper-infused wiring harness sheaths. no joke!

I can guarantee the rats won't stop when the peanut butter is gone. seriously,,, try hot sauce..

Honda's Chili-Flavored Wire Wrap Could Save Your Car From a Rodent Invasion

Genuine Honda Rodent Tape - 4019-2317

We have actually ordered some of this tape from Honda for use. We have one customer that has had 4 engine harnesses replaced along with multiple other wire repairs in about 3 years. He has tried getting a cat, putting out traps, drier sheets, peppermint, etc
So far it has worked but the tape is expensive and gets costly to cover all the areas where the damn things can get in and chew on the wiring. I'm sure it is far cheaper than the deductibles he has paid but it may not be something i'd recommend unless you are really having problems with mice or rodents.

 

[Nobody Special]

Did you find enough wire to complete your tests? I work at a dealer in Iowa and we get a ton of rodent chewed harnesses from the farmers. I could easily ship out a harness or parts of...
We generally cut the connectors off the ends and save those in case we need a connector down the road for a repair but the rest of the harness goes in the garbage.
Feel free to pm me and I can try to get you one.

I actually had a simple day turn into a long, drawn out day so I did not get to the junk yards to hunt.

That would be awesome if you can get me at least 5-10 feet, or more depending on if people recommend more products to try.
I only have PayPal though and I am not signing up for something else.

(NOTE for those reading that may make suggestions, This is coming from my pocket to buy these products, and I will look into the MSDS sheets and decide if it is worth it to buy. Most is all the same stuff, just rebranded)

 

[Nobody Special]

Fun fact. :tongue::tongue::tongue:
Most rat poison is nothing more than blood thinners.
If you read MSDS sheets, the antidote in Vitamin K.


"The body needs vitamin K to produce prothrombin, a protein and clotting factor that is important in blood clotting and bone metabolism."
Vitamin K: Health benefits, daily intake, and sources
Vitamin K - Health Professional Fact Sheet


Warfarin was first developed in 1948 through research and development of rodent (rat) poisons. Since warfarin is tasteless and odorless, it was effective when mixed with food to bait rodents. Rodents would return to the bait and continue to feed until lethal doses of the drug was consumed.
https://dphhs.mt.gov/Portals/85/dsd/documents/DDP/MedicalDirector/Warfarin.pdf

 

[VENTURE21]

I have used quite a few.
The hands down best is the factory applied WaxOyl on my Land Rover and Dominion "No Drip".
It is a 99, and is my dedicated Winter vehicle... I run it year round, but it is my "go-to" snow vehicle as my '02 4Runner just cannot compete in my driveway.

I have used Fluid Film, and it just sucks.
Take one ride down the highway in heavy rain, at speed, and well, it sucks.
(Before I get critiqued by anyone for speeding in rain, you would need to know the facts behind it all:sad

On this '21, I used Cosmoline after testing products years ago.
She had like 250 miles on it when I did it.

Dominion "No Drip" works damn well, but rubs off on EVERYTHING when you are working. Clothes. Skin.

I have friends that bought into Ziebart and the repeat visits seem to work, but who has time to repeat the same thing over and over?
Some others use different services, like NH OIL SPRAY which seems to work, but they want annual inspections and reapplication.

So basically, I hunt stuff that can last a long while before I have to go tackle it again, if ever.
I have no issues with ANY of the products as much as it may seem like I do...
I just suggest products where you are not wasting time and money.
Say you get hurt or life takes a change and then life settles, then what?
(Granted you may have bigger things to worry about)

I just need this to last me for 16 years. I hate buying cars as they honestly are nothing but a waste of money. Sure I could have bought a Hyundai or Kia, but again, they are always in the shop especially if you want to keep the Hyundai warranty.
Toyota = Change fluids and battery and it starts every day. (With all my older stuff that is)

WaxOyl gets thick and wax like consistancy correct? You can still scrap off with finger nail? I have had no better results in my wheel wells with Woolwax or FF. They both wash out rather easily like you have commented. I feel FF has better wicking properties as its a little thinner. Over the summer it will drip out of door pinch seams. I am interested in finding something more durable for shocks..

 

[Nobody Special]

WaxOyl gets thick and wax like consistancy correct? You can still scrap off with finger nail? I have had no better results in my wheel wells with Woolwax or FF. They both wash out rather easily like you have commented. I feel FF has better wicking properties as its a little thinner. Over the summer it will drip out of door pinch seams. I am interested in finding something more durable for shocks..

I am not 100% certain what grade Land Rover used, but WaxOyl Hardwax would be a good route to try for what you want. But, it is black, and I am not a fan of black products that are not factory applied. It covers too much, and shops use black to hide rust, hence why I am against sh!t that REQUIRES annual checkups & coatings.
Cavity waxes of which WaxOyl has as well, are for "protected" areas like inside doors and rockers. .

WoolWax will creep. It takes longer, but it does get to places.
Fluid Film never impressed me with anything.
Dominion NO DRIP would be a good candidate as well, but it is SLOPPY!
A guy on YotaTech worked for Boeing and swore by Boeshield, so I tried it back then when Fluid Film was getting big, and they both suck, TO ME.
(I HATE repeating something over and over and over)




Looking for a video...

Found it.
This kid had pretty much the same results as when I did this YEARS ago.
But I soaked mine in a bucket with rock salt and water.

Watch at 1.5 speed.


I found the video while I was looking for newer products to test.
(I think) only New Hampshire Oil Spray, StaBil, and CRC were new, to me.
I can't go through it right now to figure out if that was all.

 

[Nobody Special]

And you know how guys say "Rubberized Undercoating" sucks?

I did the skid plate on my 02 4R with it, and 18 years later (from when I bought it) it is still rust free. I did it on the first oil change at around 1.5-2k miles.
I do not recall what I used, but IIRC, I picked it up from Advance Auto.

I prepped the '02 skid with Brake Kleen, rubbing alcohol then Brake Kleen again.
It has not chipped, peeled or rusted.

So do you all see why all this is tricky?
It all depends on the current condition, prep, and how thorough you are.

I, me, myself would honestly pay $2,000-$2,500:jump: for Toyota to WaxOyl the chassis at the factory. Sure, we can do it for much less, but we are much less thorough due to all the components and body in the way.

 

[Irish Mike]

Wire test

I was able to grab a section today. I put a sharpie marker next to it for scale. I dont think it will be more than $5-$10 to ship. Here is a pic so let me know if this will work.

I am interested in what you find out as we deal with this all the time. Let me know an address and I will try to get it out today.

Best,
Mike

 

[Nobody Special]

I was able to grab a section today. I put a sharpie marker next to it for scale. I dont think it will be more than $5-$10 to ship. Here is a pic so let me know if this will work.

My Paypal is under Michael Lebeda or [email protected].

I am interested in what you find out as we deal with this all the time. Let me know an address and I will try to get it out today.

Best,
Mike

And that it 100% "the good shit"? The soy wire rats CRAVE?

I went to six scrap yards and a Toyota dealer to find wire today and nobody had what I needed.
When I went to Toyota, I explained what I wanted it for after I asked, and two parts guys looked up at me, and the one I was talking to said "You mean the injector wires"...

I guess they know.

 

[Irish Mike]

I took this bundle from the connector that plugs into the ecm and went to the first spot where it splits and goes several directions.

 

[Nobody Special]

I took this bundle from the connector that plugs into the ecm and went to the first spot where it splits and goes several directions.

I logged into his account and I *think* I sent the money.
Should be $10.

 

[Irish Mike]

I logged into his account and I *think* I sent the money.
Should be $10.

I will get it sent out today and see if I can get you a tracking number.
Here is what we had, It was actually a pile of 3 harnesses. The section I removed was off the bottom of the fuse block, not the ECM as I had previously stated.
I'd like to see what your results find!

 

[Nobody Special]

I'll be sure to post them up.

I am thinking it should not take more than one or two nights to get results.

One bare wire.
One coated wire.
One peanut butter wire.
One coated wire w/ peanut butter on top.

So far I only have WoolWax and Cosmoline.
Working on getting some WaxOyl for a fair price for this too.

 

[Nobody Special]

I bet they settled this claim FAST.

Reports: Rodents feast on House Speaker Paul Ryan's SUV wiring
Car wiring: House Speaker Paul Ryan's SUV wiring 'eaten by animals'

 

[Bikeric]

I just want the OEM wire.
Not equivalent. The actual wire they use.

I want to test a few products to see if they degrade the wires, and then leave them leave them in a rat-infested area to see what happens.

What part of D.C. will you be leaving them in?

 

[Nobody Special]

Interesting.
Just found this.



PredatorPee® - Stops Rodent Chewing of Soy-Based Wire Covers in Vehicles
PredatorPee(R) - Stops Rodent Chewing of Soy-Based Wire Covers in Vehicles |
Newswire

This is not a new problem and creative auto mechanics have discovered a very effective solution. In 2013 The Los Angeles Times reported that rabbits had eaten their way through the soy-based wiring in cars parked at the Denver International Airport.

"They come to the recently driven cars for warmth, and once they're there, they find that many of the materials used for coating ignition cables are soy-based. And the rabbits find that quite tasty," Wiley of repair center told the newspaper.

suggested a solution for anyone seeking to prevent their car from becoming a critter snack shack - coating the wires with fox or coyote urine. "Predator urine is a good deterrent," said. "That stuff can take care of the critter damage pretty quick."