RCI Rock slider install instructions?

Put mine on today. Was a pain in the ass, but not difficult by any means. If I had better tools, it'd have been a lot easier tightening the bolts.

Any way, I have four bolts left over.

Two of which I believe are for holes that line up slider to frame, but are not threaded, on the passenger side.

Two of which I know where they go on the driver side, but am having a hell of a time getting them in, and I ran out of light and patience.

I'm wondering though, would it be fine to just say **** it and leave those two driver side bolts out? In all reality, I don't see myself truly using the sliders in any kind of serious fashion, anytime soon.

I have all the perimeter/edge bolts in, so I think it should be plenty strong.

Did you make sure to not use any of the oem bolts? The black ones? I got one bolt leftover and after I get down and checked, i found that my friend reused one of the oem bolt.
 
Any way, I have four bolts left over.

Two of which I believe are for holes that line up slider to frame, but are not threaded, on the passenger side.

Two of which I know where they go on the driver side, but am having a hell of a time getting them in, and I ran out of light and patience.

There are extra bolts included. The plates used on the sliders are the same template they use for the other model 4Runner sliders also. The other models have different holes/patterns, so all holes won't be used on yours but they include extra bolts.

There was one bolt I couldn't fit in on mine - on the drivers side. I think because one of the gussets was in the way, can't remember now. I'm not going to worry about one. And I think even with one out, there's still as many bolts holding the drivers side on as the passenger side, so the holding strength is the same really each side.
 
Did you make sure to not use any of the oem bolts? The black ones? I got one bolt leftover and after I get down and checked, i found that my friend reused one of the oem bolt.

Definitely sure I didn't reuse an OEM bolt. I actually put them away prior to starting so that wouldn't happen.

There are extra bolts included. The plates used on the sliders are the same template they use for the other model 4Runner sliders also. The other models have different holes/patterns, so all holes won't be used on yours but they include extra bolts.

There was one bolt I couldn't fit in on mine - on the drivers side. I think because one of the gussets was in the way, can't remember now. I'm not going to worry about one. And I think even with one out, there's still as many bolts holding the drivers side on as the passenger side, so the holding strength is the same really each side.

That's what I thought about the extra bolts.

I am going to try and get the remaining two on the driver side in. I'd really like to get the KDSS one in especially, so that the lines don't have any chance of moving even though they feel pretty stable as is.

Will give it a shot this weekend though. My knees, shoulders, and hips are shot from ****ing around on the ground for 2.5 hours last night.
 
Update:

Got one of the two bolts in. Took a little elbow grease, but it's in there.

Unfortunately, the other one will not go. The KDSS line is simply in the way. I'd need to pry the line out an inch or so to get the bolt squared up, let alone get a socket around it.

Instead I used one of the original bolts I had removed. It was short enough to get in behind the KDSS line. As good as getting one of the RCI bolts in there? Probably not. But, it's a hell of a lot better than nothing, and I don't see any other option.

I also went around and checked every bolt hole left, and have confirmed that every threaded hole is now bolted.

End of story, I have 3 bolts left over. 2 from the passenger side that have no threaded hole, and the one from above.
 
Put mine on today. Was a pain in the ass, but not difficult by any means. If I had better tools, it'd have been a lot easier tightening the bolts.

Any way, I have four bolts left over.

I don't have RCI, but I can't imagine that you would need special tools. I did my install with a rachet, an 8mm hex, and a tapper.

I don't know if this will help anyone else, but I have BAMF sliders, first thought when I went to install was the wrong size bolts were included. I had to re-tap some of the holes. The issue for me was the mud/dirt build-up from trails, I guess I should have added the sliders way earlier on.

Re-tapping holes on the 4R is easy in the fact that all threads that I've come across are either 1.25 or 1.5 threading.

I don't have KDSS but the plate on the BAMF sliders is pretty ridiculously awesome. But this meant I had to relocate the fuel line :(

I can somewhat understand why OP may have wanted instructions, as this took my twice as long to do than I had expected.
 
I don't have RCI, but I can't imagine that you would need special tools. I did my install with a rachet, an 8mm hex, and a tapper.

I didn't need any special tools. I said better tools. The only socket I had that fit required an adapter, which made it frustrating or impossible to get on some of the bolts due to the adapters extension. The ones that I couldn't get it to, I was forced to use a basic hand wrench, which was even more frustrating.

Only needed simple hand tools to do it. But as I said, better tools would have made it a lot easier.

The KDSS lines do make it a bit more of a pain though. The passenger side was a walk in the park compared to the driver side.
 
To anyone following this thread, please don't worry about extra bolts. As mentioned earlier, the hardware kit comes with extra bolts to cover many models. KDSS, or not, they won't use the same exact number of bolts. Also, there is no need to remove the fuel tank, only KDSS parts as mentioned. Some holes in the RCI plate might not be used, again to cover multiple models of 4runner. All sliders, and other products for that matter are now coming with installation instructions. Thanks for your patience and understanding.
 
By any chance someone with TE w/KDSS put some after installation pictures from below showing the mounting points and KDSS lines? Thanks.
 
With good money spent, contact the manufacture for clear instructions or directions on how to install, why are you here asking if anyone has done this?

When you bought your truck did it come with an owners manual? Or did you ask around on how to use it?
Seems like a straight forward email or phone call. They built them, they should be able to tell you how to install them.

Seems simple.
 
With good money spent, contact the manufacture for clear instructions or directions on how to install, why are you here asking if anyone has done this?

When you bought your truck did it come with an owners manual? Or did you ask around on how to use it?
Seems like a straight forward email or phone call. They built them, they should be able to tell you how to install them.

Seems simple.

I installed mine over 3 years ago, but I''m pretty sure they came with instructions.

Not to mention, it really is as simple as "put in place so bolt holes line up. bolt."

I don't know what more you'd really need to know, or get out of from calling them.
 
I used these instructions. Print them out and take them with you. I didn't and made a couple of mistakes.

https://trail4runner.com/2017/11/20/rci-rock-sliders-install-5th-gen-4runner/

I created a video that I haven't posted yet about the install. As soon as I fix my movie making program I will post it on YouTube. Hardest part is jacking the slider up under the brake/kdss lines. That's the only part of the install I needed another person to help me. While jacking it up the other person would hold the slider up to keep the flat plate flat against the frame. The other 98% I did by myself, although I think having a friend might make the job faster.
 
Here is a resumé of the installation

RCI Rock slider install instructions - 5th GEN 4Runner trail edition

Hi guys,
As I always appreciated the effort that people put in the reply's. Here is a few points I would have liked to read before the installation:

- In my case, holes had to be 'taped' (M8X1.25 + brake cleaner can) due to rust in the treads. I didn't have running boards before so the holes were exposed to deterioration. The taping in the lower holes was a walk in the park. The taping in the higher holes was a real pain in the ass due to limited work space.

- There are 2 bolts extra in the package and no instruction papers. All the bolts are packed in one box and the sliders is shipped in two boxes.

- On the driver's side, at the aft, the rock slides fits in quite tight behind the brake line, but it goes.

- On the driver's side, forward part, you'll need to remove the KDSS front cap

Again, cheers to anyone who takes time to put in great information on theses forums. I've been bloody greatful many times.
 
Just an old man's trick for installing stuff by yourself. Get a couple of pieces of threaded rod the same spec as the mounting bolts. Thread the rod in the frame at the front and rear. Place part to be hung on the threaded rod and then you can start lining up your fasteners. I was taught this in the long long ago for installing heads and headers with the block still in the car. Along with the ever " work smarter not harder" and "be smarter then the wood".
 

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