Re-gearing diff advice

Mile high said:
I'm also considering re-gearing my 5th gen LE. I currently have it lifted (Toytec Boss) have added sliders and 285 70 17's. I've just about to decided to add F+R ARB Lockers but struggling with the gears. The stock gears are still sorta ok even with 285's. I live in Colorado and even going up the mountain isn't too bad, just have to hammer it. Like many, i do mostly city driving and some highway away from the mountains. I would go with Nittro 4.56's but only concern is need to drive 75 -80 at times and the extra RPM's and mileage loss in those situations. Ie. a road trip to Moab for example....would i regret the lower gears? I guess you can't have it all but would love to hear directly from someone who has regeared and if the HWY performance has prompted any regrets?
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Yes, there is always small regrets at times...but overall I'm extremely happy with 4.56.

On long trips.. I just drive a little slower and get there 30 minutes later.... or take the MPG hit and increased noise... The truck can still go 90mph all day long, it just sucks the gas and feels rough, but that is always the case when turning big tires anyway. Having another OD gear would be nice, but not a big deal....
 
Wow, thanks for all the worthy response from those who have taken the plunge. I almost had myself talked out of it but wanted to make one last request for info. Given the labor costs of diff work i want to be happy with the results. I'll know i'll love the ARB's but didn't want to get a month or year down the road and wished i'd re-geared when i had the chance. Thanks again for all the good feedback!
 
TravelWest01 said:
I put 4.56 Nitro gearing in last year, along with ARB lockers. The gearing made a big difference at low speed, my 4Lo 1 is an amazing crawling gear. I go up and down just about anything without touching the brakes. On the high end, I comfortably cruise at 75 and can pass as needed. With my lift and 285s the mileage didn't change, it was 13 before and 13 after. Bottom line, don't fear the gear!
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I'm looking to this exact same set up on my 2014 LE. How much did it cost you if you don't mind me asking?
 
Mile high said:
I'm also considering re-gearing my 5th gen LE. I currently have it lifted (Toytec Boss) have added sliders and 285 70 17's. I've just about to decided to add F+R ARB Lockers but struggling with the gears. The stock gears are still sorta ok even with 285's. I live in Colorado and even going up the mountain isn't too bad, just have to hammer it. Like many, i do mostly city driving and some highway away from the mountains. I would go with Nittro 4.56's but only concern is need to drive 75 -80 at times and the extra RPM's and mileage loss in those situations. Ie. a road trip to Moab for example....would i regret the lower gears? I guess you can't have it all but would love to hear directly from someone who has regeared and if the HWY performance has prompted any regrets?
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Just hauled from Denver to Moab with 4.56's, 285/70's and a packed to the brim SR5. I can keep up at 75 no issue. I generally am choosing my gears in the hills but i can keep up without any issue. I was feeling sliiiightly draggy prior to my re-gear. PS. Slee is awesome :-)
 
Doing both front/rear ARB lockers and 4.56 gears was about $5,100 installed. Yotamasters in Corona did the work, they have a good reputation around here. By comparison, 4 Wheel Parts wanted $5K just to do the lockers. I have only needed the lockers when doing Bullfrog trail, which is a tough trail at Johnson Valley OHV. My Picture shows the ledge I climbed with the lockers. The warning on the front locker is that putting it on th IFS means you have to be careful, straight line only and don't push too hard.
 
I am at a cross roads as well... but unlike everyone else. I'm seriously looking into 4.88

But everyone say 4.56 is good to go... kinda worries me about going with 4.88.

I usually drive 75mph on the freeway.. with 4.56 I should around 2500rpms with 285's (which I'm planning on running 33x12.5 soon) versus 2700rpm with 4.88's ...

I just don't want to have buyers remorse... Buy 4.56 and wish I bought 4.88's ... I've had 4.88's on my 2001 Tundra on 33x12.5 and loved it but I used it to tow alot too

Plus I also wanted to replace my rear to an ARB but was told; I cant. Unlike most of the guys here I'm a TE and have a rear locker. I was told; I can't replace it with an ARB because of the actuator on my pumpkin. So I was thinking of putting a front arb locker. Just incase I need it...


AAAARRRGGGGHHHH!!! Can't decide!!!
 
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4.88 is controversial. Some say too far, but may depend on tire size. You would definitely lose top end, but gain a lot of crawl capabilitiy. When I discussed with guys at Yotamasters they said 4.88 was what they used, but they are pretty hard core crawlers. If you went with 34" tires 4.88 would probably be awesome.
 
TravelWest01 said:
4.88 is controversial. Some say too far, but may depend on tire size. You would definitely lose top end, but gain a lot of crawl capabilitiy. When I discussed with guys at Yotamasters they said 4.88 was what they used, but they are pretty hard core crawlers. If you went with 34" tires 4.88 would probably be awesome.
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Funny thing ... those are the guys that's going to do my install.

Just bought a house down street from them... I'm down the street from alot of awesome shops. Demello, ICON, gibson, etc...
 
You are in good hands with Yotamasters, only caution is they are super busy and sometimes a bit slow. Be patient, work is very solid. Let us know what you're u good with!
 
TheWraith said:
I am at a cross roads as well... but unlike everyone else. I'm seriously looking into 4.88

But everyone say 4.56 is good to go... kinda worries me about going with 4.88.

I usually drive 75mph on the freeway.. with 4.56 I should around 2500rpms with 285's (which I'm planning on running 33x12.5 soon) versus 2700rpm with 4.88's ...

I just don't want to have buyers remorse... Buy 4.56 and wish I bought 4.88's ... I've had 4.88's on my 2001 Tundra on 33x12.5 and loved it but I used it to tow alot too

Plus I also wanted to replace my rear to an ARB but was told; I cant. Unlike most of the guys here I'm a TE and have a rear locker. I was told; I can't replace it with an ARB because of the actuator on my pumpkin. So I was thinking of putting a front arb locker. Just incase I need it...


AAAARRRGGGGHHHH!!! Can't decide!!!
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Depends on what you pan to eventually do with the truck... 4.88 is a bit much for 33s. If you eventually do 35s though..... They would be fine.

Yep, can't really put an ARB in an e-locker notched axle housing....

I wish I had 5.29s while offroad, but.... I hope to eventually do a lefty transfer case and possibly have dual cases or at least a 4:1 reduction gear....+ supercharger + long travel up front LOL. 4Lo is just not low enough in these things. I'm super spoiled by my other trucks crawl ratio.
 
TheWraith said:
I am at a cross roads as well... but unlike everyone else. I'm seriously looking into 4.88

But everyone say 4.56 is good to go... kinda worries me about going with 4.88.

I usually drive 75mph on the freeway.. with 4.56 I should around 2500rpms with 285's (which I'm planning on running 33x12.5 soon) versus 2700rpm with 4.88's ...

I just don't want to have buyers remorse... Buy 4.56 and wish I bought 4.88's ... I've had 4.88's on my 2001 Tundra on 33x12.5 and loved it but I used it to tow alot too

Plus I also wanted to replace my rear to an ARB but was told; I cant. Unlike most of the guys here I'm a TE and have a rear locker. I was told; I can't replace it with an ARB because of the actuator on my pumpkin. So I was thinking of putting a front arb locker. Just incase I need it...


AAAARRRGGGGHHHH!!! Can't decide!!!
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4.56 works great. Like I have stated before, you end up with a 7% (actually 7.07%) lower than stock gearing with 285/75's or 34" tires. With all the added armor, this is very helpful. I can get about 15.5 mpg on the highway driving like an old man doing about 70 mph. 4.88's will give you a little more off the line and suffer at highway speeds. Running 35's or 37's, then heck yeah.
 
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As it was put to me when i made my decision:
Are you gonna trailer your rig?
If not then go with the 4.56
honestly 70 mph is about max i can comfortably go now with my 4.56 gears.
I can go 80 mph, but it is uncomfortable handling and gas mpg takes a dive, wind noise, etc.
i would not go 4.88 unless you really really want to be off road bias.



TheWraith said:
I am at a cross roads as well... but unlike everyone else. I'm seriously looking into 4.88

But everyone say 4.56 is good to go... kinda worries me about going with 4.88.

I usually drive 75mph on the freeway.. with 4.56 I should around 2500rpms with 285's (which I'm planning on running 33x12.5 soon) versus 2700rpm with 4.88's ...

I just don't want to have buyers remorse... Buy 4.56 and wish I bought 4.88's ... I've had 4.88's on my 2001 Tundra on 33x12.5 and loved it but I used it to tow alot too

Plus I also wanted to replace my rear to an ARB but was told; I cant. Unlike most of the guys here I'm a TE and have a rear locker. I was told; I can't replace it with an ARB because of the actuator on my pumpkin. So I was thinking of putting a front arb locker. Just incase I need it...


AAAARRRGGGGHHHH!!! Can't decide!!!
Click to expand...
 
ECGS quoted me just under $3200 for 4.56's and ARB's F+R. That quote includes the core charge refund after i mail my current diffs back to them. Compressors run $250-$500 depending on if you go single or double. Local Shop in Golden quoted around $750 labor. And i guess i didn't include switches so whatever they run.
 
tnine said:
Hey guys,
I've almost completed my build. I have my lift, 285/70/17 tires, wider wheels and a winch. I'd like to re-gear my differentials to get more torque. I have a few questions.

I have a 2014 4Runner SR5. According to the parts department at the dealership, I have a 4.11 gear ratio from the factory, is this correct?

Using rough country's diff calculator, I need to go to at least a 4.375 ratio to get back to "factory power". I don't mind sacrificing a bit of gas milage and top end speed to have more torque. What sort of ratios have you guys gone up to, and what's your highway driving experience like? I'm thinking if that is the correct ratio, I'd like a bit more torque than factory.

Can someone explain to me how this is calculated? I'd love to know.

I'm not sure I really have the need for ARB lockers, my a-trac has sufficed so far. Is it possible to simply change the ratio of the existing factory diffs with new gears, or do I have to buy aftermarket lockers?

Cost is an issue, so I want to weigh my options. For a full ARB setup I'm looking at 4k, and I don't really envision doing anything hardcore enough to need them for at least a few more years.

Thanks in advance!


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Engineer said:
3.73 from the factory
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I checked using my VIN yesterday and the dealer says mine is 4.11 as well. Really weird.
 
Mile high said:
ECGS quoted me just under $3200 for 4.56's and ARB's F+R. That quote includes the core charge refund after i mail my current diffs back to them. Compressors run $250-$500 depending on if you go single or double. Local Shop in Golden quoted around $750 labor. And i guess i didn't include switches so whatever they run.
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That sounds like a good deal, $750 labor for all the work including running air lines and switches a good deal. Here is a picture of my switches, mounted on front of center console. Good luck!
 

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2014 trail here with plate bumpers front and rear, sliders, winch, and bottom armor. 285/70r17 duratracs. Before regearing to 4.56, I was searching for gears at the slightest incline; now I do not. Even though I occasionally pull a trailer, I am happy with 4.56 gears. I would not be tempted to try 4.88 gears. I used my e-lockers but went with ARB air-lockers in front and am content. Good luck
 
Awesome. Thanks everyone for all the input. I'm going to go with 4.56 and get them installed at Slee Off Road.


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