rear 3rd member swap

The 2WD driveshaft has no double cardan and no slip yoke. The slip yoke is at the trans output and it has two single u-joints.

And to 01thunder - if you haven't fixed the driveshaft (errr... completely replaced it), do that first... the 2WD driveshaft wears out with time due to a rubber coupler in the middle of it.

-Charlie

the diff is making noise. i had it on jack stands and could hear the growling and such while holding it at 70 mph. below that, it's ok.
 
Not always true. According to the code in the door AO4A my 1996 with e locker came with factory 4.56. I have two buddy's with none lockers and reading their codes they have 4.10.

Edit: I called Toyota and had them run my vin. Mine has 4.30 gears.
 
Not always true. According to the code in the door AO4A my 1996 with e locker came with factory 4.56. I have two buddy's with none lockers and reading their codes they have 4.10.

Good to know. See, learn something new everyday.
 
Hi, Quick question and since I cant start a new thread because I am new I thought I would try asking it here.

I am looking at buying a '99 t4r. The ad says "needs to have the rear axle rebuilt (most likely pinion bearings) but figured I’d see if anyone wants to take it as is and save me the time of tearing it apart. Drivable but makes a whooping sound from the rear. Have a complete used 3rd member with Elocker and same gearing out of a 1st gen Tacoma to swap in, will be included in sale."

The 4runner also has an elocker. My question is would this be a direct swap or would there need to be modifications done to make it work?
 
Hi, Quick question and since I cant start a new thread because I am new I thought I would try asking it here.



I am looking at buying a '99 t4r. The ad says "needs to have the rear axle rebuilt (most likely pinion bearings) but figured I’d see if anyone wants to take it as is and save me the time of tearing it apart. Drivable but makes a whooping sound from the rear. Have a complete used 3rd member with Elocker and same gearing out of a 1st gen Tacoma to swap in, will be included in sale."



The 4runner also has an elocker. My question is would this be a direct swap or would there need to be modifications done to make it work?
1st gen tacoma and 3rd gen 4Runners share the same elocker differential. The axle housings are different and gear ratios can be different though. The 4Runner could have either 4.10 or 4.30 and the Tacoma should be 4.10 so double check.

Sent from my JSN-L23 using Tapatalk
 
To anybody reading this thread wondering how to do it, you absolutely do not have to disconnect the brake lines. Take all the brackets loose, disconnect the ebrake cable on either side at the turnbuckle and take the nuts off the axle retainer. It'll pop right out and there's just enough room to get the axle shafts out of the diff and you can drop the diff out. Done it many times on 2nd gen 4Runners, 3rd gen 4Runners, 1st gen Tacos and older pickups.

Sent from my JSN-L23 using Tapatalk
 
1st gen tacoma and 3rd gen 4Runners share the same elocker differential. The axle housings are different and gear ratios can be different though. The 4Runner could have either 4.10 or 4.30 and the Tacoma should be 4.10 so double check.

Sent from my JSN-L23 using Tapatalk

Thanks. So what do you have to do with the axle housings to make it work?
 
the diff is making noise. i had it on jack stands and could hear the growling and such while holding it at 70 mph. below that, it's ok.


agree with weekendclimber

yikes

not too safe....I would not do it on jack stands especially with a noise or WITH a vibration
 
1st gen tacoma and 3rd gen 4Runners share the same elocker differential. The axle housings are different and gear ratios can be different though. The 4Runner could have either 4.10 or 4.30 and the Tacoma should be 4.10 so double check.

Sent from my JSN-L23 using Tapatalk

So the seller told me that gear ratios for both are 4.30. Did the tacomas have a 4.30?
 
Need some help: 3Rd member was swapped, not sure what im looking at

Rear diff was leaking badly and had been run out of oil was trashed. The shop i took it to replaced the rear diff and third member with a locker because that's what they could find. SO far i have not been able to unlock the locker and my transfer case is puking oil (maybe from ratios not matching ? ) . may be unrelated but i also get a heck of a vibration at 80MPH too.

Here's a picture of what I'm looking at. From what I can tell its what is left of the elocker actuator. but it only moves a little bit. With the rear jacked up i can spin the wheels and it doesn't matter what direction i turn the handle the locker stays engaged.

any help appreciated thanks
 

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stop using your vehicle before that rear diff is fixed. you're going to destroy the TC or the rear diff or even perhaps the transmission. you don't drive a locked center diff on hard surfaces.

and until you have verified that the rear diff has the same ratio as the front diff, don't engage AWD/4WD.
 
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stop using your vehicle before that rear diff is fixed. you're going to destroy the TC or the rear diff or even perhaps the transmission. you don't drive a locked onward surfaces.

and until you have verified that the rear diff has the same ratio as the front diff, don't engage AWD/4WD.

After inspection: Vibration was from a failing Universal. Transfer case leak was caused by a failing seal around the shifter stalk, replaced that and a micro switch for 4x4 indicator while it was in the shop. Rear Is Definitely 4.3 not 4.10

On the hunt for a rear 4.10 3rd member, locker would be cool but at this point i just want it to go into and out of 4wd without binding and damage.
 
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Decided to send this rear diff to ECGS to be rebuilt as a 4.10 and it arrived back today. Also ordered a new rear diff actuator motor and sensor. In the process of cleaning an alarming amount of metal shavings and rust from the rear axle. Doesn't look like it was throughly cleaned from the first failed diff. Also the fluid was milky and contained water. Hence the rust.

If anyone down the road is looking at something like in the above picture, it's what's left of the inside of the rear differential actuator. The material is very brittle, that combined with a swollen o-ring most likely caused what I ended up with.

Oh and the rear locker was stuck in the engaged position because the housing was never modified to fit a locking rear diff. In the process of using the retrofit kit from yotamasters.
 
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On a related note does anyone know what bolt was used to secure the elocker actuator to the rear diff? I know 2 of the holes are occupied by the extra long studs. The third hole looks like it should have a bolt in it.
 

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