Rear Axle Broke off.

[nevada]

looking at that picture again, the bearing separated.

Toyota axles are held in place by the bearing/backing plate. even IF the axle breaks, it wont come out.

id guess the axle broke when the locker "stopped" working. and in fact the locker was working perfectly, because without it, you wouldn't have been able to drive it, as all the power would have been transferred to the broken side.

double check the bearing install on the other side also. did they install the retaining collar? they shouldn't be able to just come apart like that...

maybe just a poor install....

 

[RunnerLimited]

looking at that picture again, the bearing separated.

Toyota axles are held in place by the bearing/backing plate. even IF the axle breaks, it wont come out.

id guess the axle broke when the locker "stopped" working. and in fact the locker was working perfectly, because without it, you wouldn't have been able to drive it, as all the power would have been transferred to the broken side.

double check the bearing install on the other side also. did they install the retaining collar? they shouldn't be able to just come apart like that...

maybe just a poor install....

yeah I was thinking about that scenario when the locker stopped working, but everyone I talked to even a couple of guys that have 3rd gens say its ok as long as its not making any noise or indications. so I just left it.

Since its in the shop I was going to do both side bearings and seals again

 

[Kurtis]

It's possible the previous owner heated up the the wheel bearing to get it off and probably over did it, weakening the temper on the axle. Weakened shaft + offroad = kaboom.

I don't think the wheel bearing could get hot enough for it weaken the axle with out the bearing just flat out letting go.

 

[Kurtis]

It's possible the previous owner heated up the the wheel bearing to get it off and probably over did it, weakening the temper on the axle. Weakened shaft + offroad = kaboom.

I don't think the wheel bearing could get hot enough for it weaken the axle with out the bearing just flat out letting go.

 

[the great him]

yeah I was thinking about that scenario when the locker stopped working, but everyone I talked to even a couple of guys that have 3rd gens say its ok as long as its not making any noise or indications. so I just left it.

Since its in the shop I was going to do both side bearings and seals again

and thats why i dont like lunch box lockers... this will be the 3rd toyota axle axle i have seen break like this with a lunchbox or ratcheting locker... i dont care what people say about them, they are hard on axles and drive shafts and ujoints... i full spool would be better, as its not "on off on off on off..." its a constant load, it is predictable, and youll grow a custom to it real quick... the best bet is always a selectable locker or a LSD

even with open diffs or positive locked rigs you still have to drive carefully and not be abusive to things. you can still snap axles on open trucks. it just is a lot harder to do so. best of luck to the OP in getting out the rest of the axle shaft... thats gonna be fun -and OP, i like your runner, what lightfroces are you running up front? are those the genesis' or are those the 240 blitz's? they look massive and bet they do wonders at night

 

[02SE]

looking at that picture again, the bearing separated.

Toyota axles are held in place by the bearing/backing plate. even IF the axle breaks, it wont come out.

id guess the axle broke when the locker "stopped" working. and in fact the locker was working perfectly, because without it, you wouldn't have been able to drive it, as all the power would have been transferred to the broken side.

double check the bearing install on the other side also. did they install the retaining collar? they shouldn't be able to just come apart like that...

maybe just a poor install....

I've seen several axle shafts that broke near the wheel bearing like this.


It is held in place by the press-fit wheel bearing, and backing plate holding the bearing in place.

What I've noticed is a common theme in these failures, is that some clown with a torch cut off a prior wheel bearing, while simultaneously destroying the temper of the axle steel. Now seriously weakened, the axle is far more likely to fail.

When the axle fails, without the axial support of an intact axle shaft spinning straight and true, the now-broken end of the axle shaft, along with the drum, wheel, and tire start to wobble. Usually very quickly the now-broken axle works it's way out of the bearing, and the drum, wheel and tire separate from the vehicle.

 

[02SE]

It's possible the previous owner heated up the the wheel bearing to get it off and probably over did it, weakening the temper on the axle. Weakened shaft + offroad = kaboom.

I don't think the wheel bearing could get hot enough for it weaken the axle with out the bearing just flat out letting go.

When I started typing my reply, your reply wasn't posted. But you are right. That is a common reason for this type of semi-floating axle failure.

 

[Dropzone]

Have seen similar breaks before. Spare axle shaft is a pain to carry but you can generally pick one up with the bearing cup for $50-75. Clean up your oil mess off the trail, Pinch the brake line, replace axle and refill the third and you are on your way home in 30 minutes

 

[Andy in Pa]

So what should I be looking for when I fix it?
the differentital, locker? or can I fix the axle and get it back on the road for now without checking the differential?

No way... as others have said, it probably broke when you thought you broke the locker. Typically when shafts like this break, they don't really snap clean like this. That clean shiney finish is likely from the broken ends rubbing together over however many miles it has gotten driven. So, unfortunately this means that your whole rear housing probably has metal shavings through it everywhere. I would totaly dis-assemble that housing and clean it up really good. Replace bearings/seals and get a new shaft. Also, take a close look at where the two broken parts were riding inside the housing. Its likely that there are some ugly scores in the housing too. You may also want to make sure the housing isn't tweaked from hitting the ground too.

Also fyi... If you ever expect that you broke something in your rear axle, drive on it as little as possible until you can get it apart and fixed. As you found out, it usually ends catastrophically somehow. Driving on a suspected broken locker was not good advice, as those pieces can get into the gears and bearings and cause major failures too.

 

[RunnerLimited]

No way... as others have said, it probably broke when you thought you broke the locker. Typically when shafts like this break, they don't really snap clean like this. That clean shiney finish is likely from the broken ends rubbing together over however many miles it has gotten driven. So, unfortunately this means that your whole rear housing probably has metal shavings through it everywhere. I would totaly dis-assemble that housing and clean it up really good. Replace bearings/seals and get a new shaft. Also, take a close look at where the two broken parts were riding inside the housing. Its likely that there are some ugly scores in the housing too. You may also want to make sure the housing isn't tweaked from hitting the ground too.

Also fyi... If you ever expect that you broke something in your rear axle, drive on it as little as possible until you can get it apart and fixed. As you found out, it usually ends catastrophically somehow. Driving on a suspected broken locker was not good advice, as those pieces can get into the gears and bearings and cause major failures too.

Thanks guys, Its in the shop getting looked at now, Ill keep this thread updated on what may have been the cause.

Tha plan for now is replace both left and right bearings, seals. and obviously replace the shaft and any other components that may have broke during the accident. Hopefully the shop looks at the lockers too, and differentials. That's would be great:llama::snacker:

 

[RunnerLimited]

and thats why i dont like lunch box lockers... this will be the 3rd toyota axle axle i have seen break like this with a lunchbox or ratcheting locker... i dont care what people say about them, they are hard on axles and drive shafts and ujoints... i full spool would be better, as its not "on off on off on off..." its a constant load, it is predictable, and youll grow a custom to it real quick... the best bet is always a selectable locker or a LSD

even with open diffs or positive locked rigs you still have to drive carefully and not be abusive to things. you can still snap axles on open trucks. it just is a lot harder to do so. best of luck to the OP in getting out the rest of the axle shaft... thats gonna be fun -and OP, i like your runner, what lightfroces are you running up front? are those the genesis' or are those the 240 blitz's? they look massive and bet they do wonders at night

yeah the lightforces are the 240 Blitz they are great! Rarely have to use them but for the bad winter days they pull through

 

[RunnerLimited]

UPDATE***

My buddy gave me call and told me what they needed to get to fix this problem:

Rear axles- axle shaft, Brake shoe, Wheel cylinder, Backing plate, Seal, ABS ring, Bearing.

He told me they looked into the differential and there were no metal shavings or anything that they see broken. (Note: He told me they really didn't do a close inspection of the diff)

There theory was that when I thought the locker was broken it actually broke the axle shaft, not the locker, since I didn't hear any clicking noise when I turn or the normal symptoms of a automatic locker, the axle was already binded to be in locked position. It was just a matter of time of my axle to brake( if that makes any sense) 2500$ is the damage but what surprised me is that all the components are all OEM parts from Toyota.

Im fixing all that and as well the seal and bearing for the other side and my alternator belt which I needed to replace anyway.

I just wished that this happened inside the city not when I was almost 2 hours away from home out:out:

 

[nevada]

UPDATE***

My buddy gave me call and told me what they needed to get to fix this problem:

Rear axles- axle shaft, Brake shoe, Wheel cylinder, Backing plate, Seal, ABS ring, Bearing.

He told me they looked into the differential and there were no metal shavings or anything that they see broken. (Note: He told me they really didn't do a close inspection of the diff)

There theory was that when I thought the locker was broken it actually broke the axle shaft, not the locker, since I didn't hear any clicking noise when I turn or the normal symptoms of a automatic locker, the axle was already binded to be in locked position. It was just a matter of time of my axle to brake( if that makes any sense) 2500$ is the damage but what surprised me is that all the components are all OEM parts from Toyota.

Im fixing all that and as well the seal and bearing for the other side and my alternator belt which I needed to replace anyway.

I just wished that this happened inside the city not when I was almost 2 hours away from home out:out:

holy hell!!

no way I would authorize that repair. you can get another complete rear housing for a couple hundred at most, and swap your locked 3rd over.

 

[RunnerLimited]

holy hell!!

no way I would authorize that repair. you can get another complete rear housing for a couple hundred at most, and swap your locked 3rd over.

Yeah but my buddy has a parts truck he is just giving me the parts for that but getting new seals and bearings

 

[JBurt]

Still really steep. Good luck with the repair.

 

[Nelsonmd]

holy hell!!

no way I would authorize that repair. you can get another complete rear housing for a couple hundred at most, and swap your locked 3rd over.

Agreed. If that price is already accounting for the used parts, then that is even more outrageous. If it includes all new parts, then it is just a run of the mill rip-off. Either way, don't pay it.

Check again whether you need to replace the wheel cylinder and the brake shoes. I don't immediately see why those would need to be replaced. The shoes are no big deal, but the cylinder and brake hardware shouldn't be damaged..

You could go to any salvage yard and pick up a new axle and all the wheel parts for just a couple hundred at most, so it'd basically be plug and play with just a new bearing (if needed) and a new seal (needed). Seriously, if you can get the assembly with a good bearing from a junk yard, I could do the swap in about an hour or 2. Its' totally straightforward.

Also, just to clarify, the axle broke, causing your diff to lock and drive just the other wheel, until your wheel hub/broken off shaft finally worked their way out of the bearing and fell off. The broken shaft was the initial cause (itself probably caused by heating up the bearing to get it off.)

Who did your last bearing job, was it a shop?

 

[Pauly Walnuts]

That does seem pricey. An OEM e-locker rear axle could be sourced for much less.

 

[KidVermicious]

Yeah but my buddy has a parts truck he is just giving me the parts for that but getting new seals and bearings

Back up. Your buddy is giving you parts, and charging you $2500 for bearings and labor and a little bit of gear oil?

 

[JWaldz]

I think that price is more of a WTF than the axle shaft snapping. That's outrageous..

FWIW: I bought a complete hub to hub rear elocker axle for $500.

 

[Andy in Pa]

Back up. Your buddy is giving you parts, and charging you $2500 for bearings and labor and a little bit of gear oil?

x2... Glad I am not the only one to think that price was outrageous for used parts... I can't see actual parts costs being more than $300, and that is for a new drum and all new brake hardware for the rear...(?)