Rear axle seal?

[goatfarmer]

1990 T4r 4x4: Pulled the passenger rear drum and found a heavy layer of grease on the shoes and brake assembly. Assume it the rear seal but what I do not know is what is required to replace it? I imagine it's not a matter of removing 4 bolts and replace the seal. If the axle needs to be removed is it be a major and labor intensive project that requires special tools?

Comments/Suggestions appreciated!!

 

[KidVermicious]

I imagine it's not a matter of removing 4 bolts and replace the seal.

It pretty much is. Put the side you're working on up on a jack stand so you don't lose any gear oil. Brake line, ebrake cable, then those four nuts on the back of the flange and slide the entire axle and drum brake assembly out. Don't drop it, it's a little heavy and the axle shaft will be slick with oil. Pop the oil seal and replace it, don't nick the housing when you're removing the seal and don't let the weight of the axle shaft damage the seal when you put it back in.

Now the bad news - those seals generally go bad because the wheel bearings are shot. Check that wheel bearing very carefully for play. Replacing the wheel bearing is a little more involved, but it's not beyond the scope of a driveway mechanic if you're willing to get creative.

 

[Chuckles89]

Here's my writeup for a 3rd gen with ABS. You'll do everything the same except for the ABS rings and 2nd bearing retainers.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/225657-how-rear-wheel-bearings-seals-home.html

Here's another great article
Toyota Maintenance: Replacing Rear Wheel Bearings and Seals

 

[goatfarmer]

The truck is in the shop for transmission work, now that the cost of labor meter is running, $$$$, considering having them replace valve cover gaskets and possibly the rear seal and wheel bearing.

How nice, not having to remove a clip in the axle housing sounds like something I should be able to do. It seems removing the axle to replace the seal is an option, once removed possibly determine if the wheel bearing should be replaced and a task I can do myself; if not, reassemble and take to shop.

Thank You for the information!!

 

[goatfarmer]

Here's my writeup for a 3rd gen with ABS. You'll do everything the same except for the ABS rings and 2nd bearing retainers.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/225657-how-rear-wheel-bearings-seals-home.html

Here's another great article
Toyota Maintenance: Replacing Rear Wheel Bearings and Seals

Checking the 'vent tube' is something I can do and although I do have the press it appears replacing the bearing is possibly a project more involved that my level of experience?

Thank you for the link, once I remove the shaft I should have a better notion as to whether or not to proceed?

 

[KidVermicious]

Checking the 'vent tube' is something I can do and although I do have the press it appears replacing the bearing is possibly a project more involved that my level of experience?

It's basic wrenching. I built a jig to press the retainers and bearings off, but you can cut them off, or "slam" them off like shown in the 4x4wire article. Then press the new ones on if you built the jig, or use a long piece of 2" tube to drive them on.

This is my homemade "special service tool" for pressing them off, there's lots of different iterations of this if you google. I used half of an old axle housing, some guys make these from scratch, some pay $150 for a commercially made version, up to you.

Don't borrow trouble though. Check them first to see if they really need replacing.

 

[Chuckles89]

once I remove the shaft I should have a better notion as to whether or not to proceed?

Put the axle shaft on the ground with the wheel studs on a flat surface. Then wiggle the backing plate up and down. If it moves a bunch, you need need wheel bearings.

Here's a video too

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/OJE35juQWM8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[goatfarmer]

Put the axle shaft on the ground with the wheel studs on a flat surface. Then wiggle the backing plate up and down. If it moves a bunch, you need need wheel bearings.

Here's a video too

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/OJE35juQWM8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Outstanding 'how to' video, author very thorough, he makes the task appear less labor intensive than it probably is; I greatly appreciate the link.

 

[Dropzone]

i too built a jig with an old axle housing. Pounding the bearing cup off beat the crap out of me. After the first one i just ended up scoring the bearing off with a cut off wheel, finishing it with a cold chisel to avoid damaging the axle surface. o Only took a minute or too.

if you already have it in the shop just get a bid from the shop. It is done and you don't have to mess with it.
Have them too both bearings, the opposite won't be far behind

 

[goatfarmer]

i too built a jig with an old axle housing. Pounding the bearing cup off beat the crap out of me. After the first one i just ended up scoring the bearing off with a cut off wheel, finishing it with a cold chisel to avoid damaging the axle surface. o Only took a minute or too.

if you already have it in the shop just get a bid from the shop. It is done and you don't have to mess with it.
Have them too both bearings, the opposite won't be far behind

Yep, that is what I be thinkin; although, at the cost of $80 to $100 per hr. intend checking with local reputable auto repair shop and get a quote if I bring the axle (s) and have them replace the wheel bearing. The transmission shop charging $$$ for rebuilding the transmission and transfer case, I requested a quote if I have them replace the valve cover gaskets; $450 :wow:

 

[RonJR]

Also check that your differential breather isn't plugged. A plugged breather is one common cause of leaking seals - the diff heats up and builds up pressure during driving, forcing oil past the seal.

 

[goatfarmer]

Also check that your differential breather isn't plugged. A plugged breather is one common cause of leaking seals - the diff heats up and builds up pressure during driving, forcing oil past the seal.

Except for the transmission everything else is on hold, once I recover from 'cost shock' intend dropping by the shop and have them check the differential breather then decide if I want them to do additional work; if I feel the shop is not taking advantage of my situation at the very least have them replace the valve cover gasket.

Thank you for the suggestion!!

 

[astynx]

Just posting for to find easily in future.

 

[goatfarmer]

Except for the transmission everything else is on hold, once I recover from 'cost shock' intend dropping by the shop and have them check the differential breather then decide if I want them to do additional work; if I feel the shop is not taking advantage of my situation at the very least have them replace the valve cover gasket.

Thank you for the suggestion!!

Took longer than expected to recover from the cost of having the Trans rebuilt. :cry2:

If it were not for the video I would not have attempted to pull the rear axle. Rather than the Trans shop replace the bearing, charge far too much for the cost of their labor, decided on a 'do it myself' axle removal then called NAPA parts and repair shop, they quoted cost of removing and installing bearing for $40, since I am basically lazy, and removing the axle went sooo well, decided to have them install the new bearing.

There are a few items intend including, if I miss any part, or step in reassembling the axle would appreciate suggestion, and/or comments.

Brake shoes, seem to recall member posting thread noting to avoid the 'metallic' type.

Have some DOT 3 brake fluid.

Axle lubricant, assume it would be the standard 75-90 W.

Since the shop will be replacing the wheel bearing, no need of my determining whether my T4r is with/ or without floating axle, let them order the wheel bearing and seal.

Unfortunately shop closed over week-end, hope to have alxe installed and on the road by Monday, no later than Tuesday.

Appreciate comments/suggestions thru-out this thread!

 

[KidVermicious]

Have your shop take a close look at the retaining collar on the axle. If there's any wear on the collar where the seal rides, have them replace it.

Metallic shoes will give you more bite, and are a little more resistant to heat fade. But they create more brake dust and chew up your rotors faster.

About anything in the axle will do. I think the FSM actually calls for 80w90, but that diff isn't picky. Anything in the 75 to 90 range will work just fine. I've seen guys run 75w140 even.

 

[goatfarmer]

Have your shop take a close look at the retaining collar on the axle. If there's any wear on the collar where the seal rides, have them replace it.

Metallic shoes will give you more bite, and are a little more resistant to heat fade. But they create more brake dust and chew up your rotors faster.

About anything in the axle will do. I think the FSM actually calls for 80w90, but that diff isn't picky. Anything in the 75 to 90 range will work just fine. I've seen guys run 75w140 even.

Having a discussion with self whether to hold off couple weeks before replacing the other bearing. Thought the issue would be the additional cost of the differential fluid until I came across a thread where member posted a comment about the cost can run from $5/qt. to $34/qt.? If the cheaper stuff is acceptable then probly hold off and top off, then drain change when the other wheel bearing is replaced.

Not that many miles on existing shoes and drums, except for the saturated shoes on the 1 side, look to be in good condition, will try and locate receipt and replace with same.

Taking the drum to shop, did not consider having them check the retainer collar. I appreciate the input!!.