Rear Axle Seals - change brakes immediately?

STI_MECE

New member
I just finished changing the seals and wheel bearings. Flipped the retainer so the seal rides on the middle of the retainer.

My brakes from POS (previous owner) were deep fried in differential fluid for God knows how long

I just dropped 500 bucks for new shoes, drums, and cylinders because what is on there currently isn't OEM.

How many people here would advise or have also held off on swapping the brakes until they gave their new seals a test run?

I'm pretty sure I'd have a stroke if my new brakes got soaked again. Lol

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I would wait unless you feel like your brakes aren't holding. You have 3 other brakes so you should be fine. I've replaced my seals 3 times and it's still leaking so you want to make sure it's GTG. The seals were installed correctly and the grease test suggested it was in the middle but it's still leaking (although much less).
 
I would wait unless you feel like your brakes aren't holding. You have 3 other brakes so you should be fine. I've replaced my seals 3 times and it's still leaking so you want to make sure it's GTG. The seals were installed correctly and the grease test suggested it was in the middle but it's still leaking (although much less).
Well that is disheartening lol it's such a piss poor design For such a capable vehicle

I did both sides so I got two brakes lol but yes I'll see how they fare for a week then decide.

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I'll have to say I'm more of the exception then the rule. The guy that helped me has done a lot of them (Timmy Toolman) and has not had issues like I'm seeing.

I might just be cursed. :frusty:
 
I'll have to say I'm more of the exception then the rule. The guy that helped me has done a lot of them (Timmy Toolman) and has not had issues like I'm seeing.

I might just be cursed. :frusty:

Yes, you and I know something isn’t adding up with your situation. We figured your rig was definitely in an accident because we saw one of the tabs on the bearing case was bent and that’s why it was so hard to remove and reinstall your axle because the studs weren’t lining up well with the axle housing and they were dragging. You also now have a different axle and different axle housing. The last time we did this job, we confirmed a good mating with of the axle seal and inner retainer. The only thing I can think of is somehow your extended breather mod has an issue. Maybe there’s a kink in the hose somewhere? Other than a breather that isn’t working as it should, there’s no reason why your axle seal should fail in such a short time. Nobody else I’ve done this job for has had an issue including myself on both of my 3rd Gens.

Check the route of your extended breather hose and make sure it’s not kinked anywhere. Make sure the breather works. If both those check out, remove the axle and re-examine the position of the inner retainer, take a look at the axle seal, and redo the sharpie or grease test. If the seal is definitely riding on the polished shoulder of the retainer, then either excessive pressure forced gear oil past the seal or somehow the seal has failed prematurely which doesn’t make sense. The new seal design it’s very pliable and durable. That seal should last 100k+ no problem.
 
I would put the new shoes on and drive as long as I had a new breather on the pumpkin or extended. If not, wait.

Toyota used to offer a rebuild kit on the cylinders. Ran me $24 a decade ago.
 
When I got my rig it had a blown passenger side seal and oil all over the brakes shoes. They disintegrated like wet particle board so I would pick at your shoes and see if they are at least still firm before I head down the road. Maybe spray them down with brake cleaner or carb cleaner to get some of the oil off them.
 
You over spent. Quality parts house stuff for the rears is more than adequate. If you already threw it all on, I'd pull the drums in a few hundred miles and see what it all looks like. If they're still leaking slow it'll take that long to see a problem.
 
I ended up spraying everything down and reusing what I got

I have new pads, drums and cylinders ready to go. I'm also going to rebuild my 2nd set of axles that pulled off my current truck.

I like being over prepared lol because I do this stuff in my down time. And when in stupid busy stuff breaks and I'd rather rebuild when I'm slow than busy

I'll update this again whenever I drive more. I got 100 miles on it right now.

What the hell is the point of the oring and all the seals in-between the drum and the wheel hub and the deflector shields? All this oil ends up going to the places it shouldn't. Frustrating.

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I ended up spraying everything down and reusing what I got

I have new pads, drums and cylinders ready to go. I'm also going to rebuild my 2nd set of axles that pulled off my current truck.

I like being over prepared lol because I do this stuff in my down time. And when in stupid busy stuff breaks and I'd rather rebuild when I'm slow than busy

I'll update this again whenever I drive more. I got 100 miles on it right now.

What the hell is the point of the oring and all the seals in-between the drum and the wheel hub and the deflector shields? All this oil ends up going to the places it shouldn't. Frustrating.

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The large o-ring on the end of the axle housing is to keep moisture out from what I can tell.

The rubber seal that pushes into the bearing case and sticks out towards the brakes is to direct any gear oil into a cavity on the back side of the axle. From there, the gear oil will finally make it’s way out through a hole on the front side of the axle face. This sort of works to direct the gear oil away from the brakes, but when enough gets in there, it builds up in the brake drum and gets slung all over the place. Take a look at your axle and you’ll see the hole on the axle face and then examine how that seal directs any oil coming through the bearing case into that metal catcher on the back side of the axle. Somebody on this forum came up with this theory, and when you examine it yourself, it makes complete sense.
 

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